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Hi, I am from Bulgaria, Europe , I began to made my hommade DTG with my brand new Epson R1900 (TDozer). Before that I have spent one month reading the threads here and R1900 Service Manual...I still continue to strip and tear down the printer carefully and slow following exactly instructions in R1900 CLUE BOOK VER 2.pdf. I have some questions :
1. I ordered from https://sdp-si.com/eStore/ :
# two .080 (MXL) Pitch, 0.306" Pitch Diameter, 12 Teeth, Aluminum Alloy Timing Pulley's - Part Number A 6A16-012DF3704
# six foots of 0.08 Pitch, 3/8" Wide, Open Ended Neoprene Belt - Part Number A 6Z16-C037
# one Polycarbonate Belt clamp for single and double sided belts - Part Number A 6M16M095
# one .12470(+.000/-.0002)" Dia., 2" Long, 303 Stainless Steel Shaft - Part Number A 7X 1-04020
# one 0.125" Bore, 0.25" O.D., BY 0.375" LONG Bore REDUCER - Part Number A 7A30-251203
# Rigid coupling with bores of 0.25 / 0.3125" on opposite sides - Rigid coupling with bores of 0.25 / 0.3125" on opposite sides -Part Number A 5C 9-0810 - is "Out of Stock" :(
Is this the correct items?
 

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my set up differs slightly than randys, i used a one piece belt... the bottom line is if you cant find a .312 pitch pulley and matching belt you either have to go one size up .326 approx or down .306.. the feed adjustment program in ek rip compensates for the pulley difference or backlash etc..

your last reference was regarding the coupling.. i used a .3125 rigid coupling both ends, then i inserted a .312 to 1/8th (bore reducer) into one side of the coupling which accepts the 1/8 th rod for the new pulley to slide on!!!

hope that helps.. it seems complicated but it is not one you get your sizes correct.. every thing uses a set screw to tighten the the rods.. ***note I did apply a slight amount of JB-WELD to the pulley bore and the 1/8 rod prior to tightening in place to keep it from ever slipping under strain!!!
Thank you very much Jeff :) and sorry for my English:(.
My second question is about Ink system - I have never CSIS, waste-ink-catch system, etc. used before ...Please help me for this-what kind of a things I do need for my Ink system? Your recommendation?
Also I read this threads: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/diy-dtg/t116231-2.html#post811676 , http://www.t-shirtforums.com/diy-dtg/t116231-2.html#post811677 for the carts that have the dual reset button...I registered and and examine from all sides on Welcome to DTGInks.com Ink Cartridges but i am not sure which item on site is the "carts that have the dual reset button":confused:.
 

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Hi, I'm building my R1900, but I have some questions:
1. the distance between the print head and the top platen of what should be? similarly like on my image-"distance 30122010646.jpg"?
If no, what should be distance on next 2 mages-"30122010651.jpg" and "30122010652.jpg" ?
 

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The platen height needs to be adjustable. For the head to function properly it needs to be within 1/4 " of substrate.
Thank you,
adjustable height ? like on image ?
and... soryy, but i don't understand about "...it needs to be within 1/4 " of substrate" ... what is "substrate" ?
also-do you help me for another my question, plesae?
 

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For the distance from the print head, put your shirt or item that your printing on the platen then adjust platen so that the distance is 1/8th-3/8ths of an inch between print head between the two!!! move the printhead manually to right edge of platen, pull the platen out manually very slowly and make sure you maintain the same distance the whole length of platen travel.. do this same test in three spots right edge of platen-middle of platen and left edge of platen (adjust accordingly!):)

PE SWITCH... It needs to stick up enough for the platen to trip it, mine sticks up approx 1/4 inch thru the 1/4 material of the platen carrier or approx the first bend in the pe switch arm (slightly less) to be level with the top of the platen carrier material...;)

hope it helps
Ooo, yes, thank you very mutch! Howsoever, your recommendation for adjustable height of platen? Minimum and maximum height?
And sizes of top and bottom platen?
I hope that you don't be bored with my requests?
Sorry for my Engilsh
 

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Hi,
in "R1900 CLUE BOOK VER 2.pdf" I read this: "... Trash the High Voltage Board.." i.e.-discard it from DTG machine, do not use it? Is it needless, useless and why?...
Also, I read this:
"... PE Switch gets located just aft of drive rod. On left side. the platen itself
must have a slot in it for the pe sensor lever arm to go thru to touch the
platen.
this means base needs to stay thin, no more than .2 inches. ...." What is "base" ? And why no more than .2 inches??
 

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Just wanted to thank you all for all the prayers and well wishing!!! I have great news regarding my fathers cancer!!! His scan today revealed 100% Cancer free and the blood clot in the lung is gone...:) He will have 2 month check ups here out!! Thankyou, He said today he will finally retire at 76..lol
God bless you and your family !
 

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:(Hi, before 3 days I almost finish assembly to convert my R1900 and start tests it using the original EPSON Stylus Photo R1900 printer driver-
I tryed to print test page, nozzle check,etc... (I hold/trigger the PE sensor by hand), but I got the Paper light flashing alarm :(. I wonder all distances in my project are correct :confused:? (look at my photos..)
Help me please... Randy (spiderx1), Jeff (german13) where is my mistake?
Sorry for my English
 

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P.S

I dont see a belt drive either? if you are using a friction drive your configuration will be different regarding spiderx1 pdf.. your bottom platen board will be longer than your top shirt board in able for it to pull the sliding unit forward when printing..

also my printer runs in manual roll.. its platen distance or configuration is much closer to the printhead at start (approx 1/4 inch from back.. than running in sheet mode which is about 2 inches behind the pe at start..

so there are alot of variables that need to be known.. are you using a belt drive per spiders pdf? are you using friction drive instead? are you running in sheet mode or manual roll? do you have the rip in place or are you using the epson driver (this comes in to play when using a belt drive for the feed adjust feature in the rip)?
Yes, I use a belt drive per spiders PDF :) and my bottom platen is 13"x21" and my top platen is 13"x19" . I have Demo of EK Rip, but tryed to print test page using epson driver...Now I start printer without platen and I got green light:p , but when I try print test page(in sheet mode) I got message about roll mode...my PE switch still not mounted in place...I trigger it by hand...
 

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Also if the head sensor cannot find the platen in the correct position it will error out.
Edge of platen should be just under the chrome slide bar for the print head at start.
So start up no platen. After green (steady) light load platen and push to back. Forward edge of platen under slide bar and about 1/4 inch below printhead height. Then print test.
Both leading edge and height need to be correct. Also be sure u have cleared out any previous attempts from computer and printer. Cancel any docs waiting to print and turn off printer for several minutes to reset. If not u will be a dog chasing its tail.
Thank you very mutch!I have completed all your advices.Now i have got successfully test page printed.I will be very thankful if you tell me what is the possible reasons about not good quality of printing(see attached files)? I've printed the test page in manual roll mode by tne original Epson R1900 driver using "Print test page".I use belt drive from your pdf.I use timing pulleys and belt (pitch diameter=0.306", pitch=0.080" MXL)
 

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the pulley is not the exact size of the original drive rod.. which is .3125.. therefor you have to use the feed adjustment to adjust this.. this is why ek rip is so beneficial when using a belt,screw drive for us diy guys...

...The ek rip has a built in utility to adjust for the stretch or compression.. its the gap and feed adjustment.. take a look at the ek manual and it will tell you how to use the feature.... ...
My questions is:
1. When I have difference between diameter of the original drive rod (8.00mm OR 0.3125" x2.54=7.94mm?) and pulley's pitch diameter (my is 0.306"), then I need to use the feed adjustment of EK RIP to got a good, exact print result? is it correct? If Yes-how to use the feed adjustment feature in EK RIP?? You say "take a look at the ek manual and it will tell you how to use the feature...." , but in "EKManual_35.PDF" I read only this :
"Feed Adjust:
User may use this control to reduce the asymmetric effect introduced by jerky print table movement.
Note: Please use Gap Adjust first and then apply the Feed Adjust.
The unit of the adjustment is line, 720 lines = 1 inch or 25.4 mm
Note: This function is provided only in the EKPrint Studio for certain printer models."
I have DEMO of EKPrint Studio version 3.5.30 (JF1900) and Sorry, but i don't understand how to use feed adjustment feature and gap adjustment feature:confused::( Please, explain me
2. When I DON'T have difference between diameter of the original drive rod 8.00mm OR 0.3125" x2.54=7.94mm?) and pulley's pitch diameter=0.312" , then what? Don't I need to use the feed adjustment of EK RIP to got a good, exact print result?
Sorry for my English pls and
MILLIONS THANKS german13, spiderx1,essen, etc.
 

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On the feed adjustment issue. Print a narrow vertical line or box almost the length of the platen.
Measure it and compare to designed length. Enter a value in the feed adjustment such as 45. And run again. Do this until u get the print the same as the design. Also u need to do this for each speed/res setting. It will remember and apply when res is selected.
Thank you Randy, I think that I understand and will try this...
When I DON'T have difference between diameter of the original drive rod 8.00mm OR 0.3125" x2.54=7.94mm?) and pulley's pitch diameter=0.312" , then what?Do I need to use the feed adjustment of EK RIP to got a good, exact print result? What is gap and gap adjustment? How to use gap adjustment feature in EKRip?
 

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On the feed adjustment issue. Print a narrow vertical line or box almost the length of the platen.
Measure it and compare to designed length. Enter a value in the feed adjustment such as 45. And run again. Do this until u get the print the same as the design. Also u need to do this for each speed/res setting. It will remember and apply when res is selected.
Which value must be enter?
For example:
- my designed lenght is 450mm=17.72inches - after print I meassure 452mm=17.80inches
- the difference = 0.08inches
- 0.08inches multiply by 720lines per inch=57.6 lines
- 57.6 lines : 17.72inches=3.25lines per inch =>therefore must be enter value= -3 for first?
 

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I just checked out jeffs (german13) new website diydtgs com. This looks like it will be the Mac Daddy of diydtg. Lots of info including the R1900 Clue Book videos. Resources etc I wish this was around when I started.
Great job jeff thanks once again.
Now I also tried to chek Jeffs new website, but :confused:
 

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Button works - Paypal is famous for it's hanging redirect - look for German13's email and complete the transaction and he gets it.

I wouldn't bug him for the password, we might wear out our welcome quickly.
Cheers
Yes, button works, now I make donate... only 10$ :(, but in this moment I am out of works...When I have more money I will donate again!
 
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