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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having problems with missing white channels. This has been an ongoing problem with some of them varying by the day. It seems to be predominately the inside and outside white channels. Today it is the outside white. Two days ago I replaced the 0, 00, 000 ribbon cables as well as the print head. I then powered up and printed 40 shirts and everything was fine. When starting up yesterday, this channel was splotchy and after an F1 cleaning all was great and I printed another 20 shirts or so. Today when starting this channel was splotchy again and I performed an F1 cleaning and it disappeared completely. I have sense let it sit for an hour done another F1 cleaning and it is splotchy again. Any ideas? Possibly the damper? If the damper is replaced, does it always need an F4 cleaning afterwards?
 

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@23spiderman has said that he replaces his dampers regularly (swaps out one set for another set that was sitting in Simple Green solution). Maybe he can put in his two cents about the F4 cleans after a damper swap.

We lost 2 channels ourselves without realizing it (our maintenance tech here had no idea there were supposed to be 4 channels on the nozzle check, lol) but an F4 was all it took to get them back and they've stayed back for 2 weeks or so now.

Definitely check humidity and not just when you're operating, but for the past 24 hours. Also make sure that capping station rubber gasket is spotless (use your finger nail gently to see if ink is dried on there and hidden) -- and the wiper blade also!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The humidity is 44% and the temperature is at 70 degrees, we are in a controlled environment with no air blowing directly on the machine. The capping station is clean and in good working order. I worked with Tigers on Thursday and sent pictures of the capping station and they said it looked great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would prefer to replace the dampers prior to doing an F4 cleaning. If I have to do an F4 cleaning after replacing dampers, I may do both to be safe and prevent doing the F4 twice.
 

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I would just go down the list of easier to replace to hardest. First the dampers. If you see one that seems to be repeated going away it might be defective. Just replace that one out and see if it makes a difference. If you still are having issues check the capping station. If the tubes aren't plugged at the bottom make sure the cap on top is still nice and raised. It will wear over time and much cheaper to just replace that than the whole station. Lastly if the white channels are still going away, I'd then open up the head and waterfall. It can really restrict the flow over time if clogged. I say to do it last cuz you just don't want to play with the print head as much as possible.

Lastly I'd keep all those things you replaced. I'm sure you can salvage them over time when you are really comfortable in diagnosing your issues. It was raining here last week and I had no idea water was dripping down right into the printhead and caused all these errors. Opened up Tue printhead, took off the ribbons and they looked absolutely burnt out but I decided to just take an alcohol wipe and cleaned as good as possible but still looked like junk on the exposed connection.. Printhead was drenched but I took the cold setting on a blowdryer, ran it through for 5 mins. , put it all together and was good as new. Overall, the machine is a lot more forgiving than some make it out to be.

Lastly you should never have to do an f4 clean. F3 max to get the flow going.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, I'll try the damper. We just put in a new print head on Thursday and I didn't think we would need to do a waterfall so soon. We have just printed 60 shirts or so since putting in the new print head.
 

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You are right, you shouldn't have to do the waterfall so soon unless it was a defective printhead which I doubt because you got good a few good prints. Just change the specific damper. Also so you don't have to waste your time checking the capping station, Do the weekly maintenance and clear out the cap. Give it a few and then do an f3. You should be able to see very clear specific strips of the white cmyk on the cap. If that's fine it at least eliminates the capping station.

I can very much see it being the specific dampers since you state it's mostly always the outside and inside channels.
 

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There are two tubes running from under the cap to the pump. I'd disconnect them, fold one over to make a seal and attach a syringe to the other. If you have a good seal between the cap and the printhead, you should be able to draw ink through. If you can't then there's an leak or perhaps a blockage somewhere.
 

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i will publicly admit here that i don't even know how to do anything but a simple clean. i've looked in my Epson adjustment program, and i can't find the "F" cleans. i just press the top right button on the bed's control panel to do a simple clean. i keep 4 dampers for the white side ready to go, and when 2 or 3 simple cleans don't fix a missing channel, then i replace all 4 dampers. my reasoning is that it takes just about the same amount of labor to change out one damper as it does to do all 4. this is VERY easy to do. then i just prime all 8 dampers, put her back together, and usually just run a couple of simple cleans to get everything flowing again. if possible, it's best to do this at the end of the day, so the printer can sit overnight. regularly changing out the dampers has greatly reduced my white ink stress.

in the 2 1/2 years that i've owned my NeoFlex, I have NEVER had to do a power clean. i'm not saying they don't work, because others have done them and they do work. i just don't want to waste the ink if i don't have to.

also, i've printed with humidity in the 30's and everything remained just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I appreciate all your posts and suggestions, I have replaced the damper for the missing white channel as well as for the magenta since that went missing today. I flushed the capping station again and have performed both an F3 and F4 cleaning. All white channels are back and look great, however the magenta is still missing. Any suggestions other than waterfall?
 

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Sometimes after you carry out a lot of work, flushing etc, providing you can see the ink in the lines, leave it for a few hours, even over night.

I often find this allows things to settle and any microscopic air bubbles to work their way out (if that's what's happening) and strangely, a simple clean and normal maintenance and it works.
 

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i will publicly admit here that i don't even know how to do anything but a simple clean. i've looked in my Epson adjustment program, and i can't find the "F" cleans. i just press the top right button on the bed's control panel to do a simple clean. i keep 4 dampers for the white side ready to go, and when 2 or 3 simple cleans don't fix a missing channel, then i replace all 4 dampers. my reasoning is that it takes just about the same amount of labor to change out one damper as it does to do all 4. this is VERY easy to do. then i just prime all 8 dampers, put her back together, and usually just run a couple of simple cleans to get everything flowing again. if possible, it's best to do this at the end of the day, so the printer can sit overnight. regularly changing out the dampers has greatly reduced my white ink stress.

in the 2 1/2 years that i've owned my NeoFlex, I have NEVER had to do a power clean. i'm not saying they don't work, because others have done them and they do work. i just don't want to waste the ink if i don't have to.

also, i've printed with humidity in the 30's and everything remained just fine.
The F2 and F3 cleans are done via the Adjustment Wizard.
If you aren't familiar with Adjustment Wizard, it's located in the starter CD program. Open the program, click OK for the agreement, exit the next window, select the "individual" button if you have only one Neoflex running off of your computer, then hit "start". The easiest way to get to "cleaning" is to click inside the scroll bar twice under the slider button, but you want to locate the "cleaning" option. Open that up, and you'll see the F cleanings. F1 is the same as the simple clean, F4 is the power clean. It will also give you additional information such as ink usage per clean and approximate time. You can also perform the initial ink charge from this window, as well as the previous window.
 
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