[cbdoya]

Hi, we're in the process of buying an exposure unit for our shop and want to know which is the "best" option for us. We wont be burning screens everyday, just in case that makes a difference.

In our research we noticed there's 3 "types" of units, Metal-Halide (MSP 3140), LED and Ultraviolet (Vastex).

Whats the difference between them and is one better than the other? Thanks.

 

[NoXid]

They all work. LED is the newest tech, and has certain possible advantages, such as low power consumption (like that matters for as little as it is used, right?) and LEDs last longer than any type of bulb, so shouldn't need to replace anything in normal use.

Really, the only thing I would say to avoid are the units that have just a couple of UV compact fluorescent twist bulbs. Those are fairly underpowered, and are likely less even in their light distribution than any other option--but they are cheaper, so ...

The units with 7 or 8 straight UV fluorescent tubes are fine, and have been the mainstay of smaller shops for years. I expect they will quit making these, as the same design with LEDs rather than tubes is quicker and lower maintenance. But either works fine.

I built my own metal halide, but if starting over today, I would go with LED because in many ways it is simpler, and I won't need to replace a big expensive MH bulb.

Other than the real cheapo twist UV units, there really isn't a wrong answer

 

[cbdoya]

They all work. LED is the newest tech, and has certain possible advantages, such as low power consumption (like that matters for as little as it is used, right?) and LEDs last longer than any type of bulb, so shouldn't need to replace anything in normal use.

Really, the only thing I would say to avoid are the units that have just a couple of UV compact fluorescent twist bulbs. Those are fairly underpowered, and are likely less even in their light distribution than any other option--but they are cheaper, so ...

The units with 7 or 8 straight UV fluorescent tubes are fine, and have been the mainstay of smaller shops for years. I expect they will quit making these, as the same design with LEDs rather than tubes is quicker and lower maintenance. But either works fine.

I built my own metal halide, but if starting over today, I would go with LED because in many ways it is simpler, and I won't need to replace a big expensive MH bulb.

Other than the real cheapo twist UV units, there really isn't a wrong answer

Thank you I appreciate your help.

 

[reximages]

I have a believe it or not story. For fifteen years or so, we used two shop lights hung from the ceiling in our dark room. Some times we used the sun to expose our screens. After exposing hundreds of screens, and, replacing burned out bulbs in those halogen lamps often. Sometimes times we had to expose another screen because the first one's image did not wash out correctly because of timing.



We ended the frustration. We bought a LED exposure unit with a 10 screen drying cabinet. We got the size for 20 x 24 screens. We just do not have the room for an automatic (in other words we do not have the need to burn larger screens using manual printers). I have never had to expose another screen to get the image to wash out correctly. Huge time saver!



My suggestion/advice is to get a new LED exposure unit. The bulb type may be less expensive but from my experience the LED is the way to go.

 

[cbdoya]

Thank you!

Which machine did you end up buying?

I have a believe it or not story. For fifteen years or so, we used two shop lights hung from the ceiling in our dark room. Some times we used the sun to expose our screens. After exposing hundreds of screens, and, replacing burned out bulbs in those halogen lamps often. Sometimes times we had to expose another screen because the first one's image did not wash out correctly because of timing.



We ended the frustration. We bought a LED exposure unit with a 10 screen drying cabinet. We got the size for 20 x 24 screens. We just do not have the room for an automatic (in other words we do not have the need to burn larger screens using manual printers). I have never had to expose another screen to get the image to wash out correctly. Huge time saver!



My suggestion/advice is to get a new LED exposure unit. The bulb type may be less expensive but from my experience the LED is the way to go.

 

[reximages]

We bought this unit. Absolutely no regrets. Way more expensive than a couple shop halogen lights; however, we have erased trial and error, time, and, mistakes. Now we have precision exposures in just a couple minutes. I kid you not. We have eliminated a lot of headaches getting this

 

[cbdoya]

Another question, do you have printer you recommend? All the Epsum ones I saw are sold out. I'm still not sure on the films, etc.

We bought this unit. Absolutely no regrets. Way more expensive than a couple shop halogen lights; however, we have erased trial and error, time, and, mistakes. Now we have precision exposures in just a couple minutes. I kid you not. We have eliminated a lot of headaches getting this

 

[reximages]

We have the Epson 1430 Artison. If I needed to look into buying a new printer for our fims, I would see what Ryonet or Catspit recommend.


When I got ours, I saw what they recommended for $1800 or whatever, I discovered that Epson out of California had reburbished ones for $295 and that is when I ordered from Epson.


After that we bought the black maxx system from Ryonet, and have had no problems. The film we got was Ryofilm from Ryonet and it works. Since then, I have bought film elsewhere and that works, too.

 

[collegiatecustom]

Another question, do you have printer you recommend? All the Epsum ones I saw are sold out. I'm still not sure on the films, etc.

I've got an extra 1430 in the shop I'd let go of. Accidentally ordered 2 refurb units from Epson and theres a no return policy there...