Metal Halide Outer Glass

1007 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by jimcr, Mar 1, 2014

Em11

Discussion Starter · Feb 27, 2014

I have a 1500 watt metal halide bulb in my exposure unit. I'm wondering if anyone knows if you can break the outer glass in order to get a higher output of UV light? This is the specific bulb I'm using: GE 47326 | 1500W Metal Halide Bulb | VR1500/U/SPORTS

I am under the impression that the outer bulb is simply to stop uv and add protection in case of inner bulb failure. Does anyone know if using a bulb like this without the outer glass is possible and what may be the downsides to doing so?

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sben763

· #2 · Feb 28, 2014

I have done this with a similar bulb. You have to be careful. I used a drill bit to break. The you have support the end where the metal support is. It didn't change as much as I though it would. I ended up buying another metal halide bulb that looks like a halogen and uses that same socket but still needs the ballast.

http://www.bulbamerica.com/ushio-mhl-1000-1-blacklight-metal-halide-bulb.html this is the bulb I have.

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oa214

· #3 · Mar 1, 2014

I tried breaking the glass and ruined my bulb. I would not recommend it

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jimcr

· #4 · Mar 1, 2014

have you ever seen one of these bulbs explode, they do another reason for the double bulb, besides the heat.

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sben763

· #5 · Mar 1, 2014

jimcr said:
have you ever seen one of these bulbs explode, they do another reason for the double bulb, besides the heat.

I agree with you Jim but there are many commercial bulbs out there like the one I post and used that don't have an outer glass. The outer glass isn't put there for safety. Its there because it is a UV filter. It's been my experience that if the inner bulb exposes so does the outer. Even all that said its best to get a metal halide bulb specifically for this in a proper enclosure. I have seen many of the DIY exposure units built out of wood in a open configuration and that simply dangerous. With the heat and dangers involved with the metal halide it should be enclosed like mine is.

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jimcr

· #6 · Mar 1, 2014

sben763 said:
I agree with you Jim but there are many commercial bulbs out there like the one I post and used that don't have an outer glass. The outer glass isn't put there for safety. Its there because it is a UV filter. It's been my experience that if the inner bulb exposes so does the outer. Even all that said its best to get a metal halide bulb specifically for this in a proper enclosure. I have seen many of the DIY exposure units built out of wood in a open configuration and that simply dangerous. With the heat and dangers involved with the metal halide it should be enclosed like mine is.

You keeping that auto busy ?

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sben763

· #7 · Mar 1, 2014

jimcr said:
You keeping that auto busy ?

As busy as I want it, I could probably keep it running 24/7 but my body wont keep up. I have taken more on but still working less time then with the manual. I didn't want to get stuck with a bunch of orders and have the auto go down. I have a 50 hoodie job to do this weekend, 3 color, it will be done in 20 min, it would have taken me hours on the manual.

I have a 60 burnout tank top order that the customer wants their logo non distressed and with burnouts that's tough. I figured out a way to use plastisol transfer release paper under the tank top with some light spray adhesive, print the tank top then send though the dryer and peel the transfer from under the garment right away. It seem to work and was held up to 5 washings so far. When I run production I am going to document it and post a thread

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jimcr

· #8 · Mar 1, 2014

sben763 said:
As busy as I want it, I could probably keep it running 24/7 but my body wont keep up. I have taken more on but still working less time then with the manual. I didn't want to get stuck with a bunch of orders and have the auto go down. I have a 50 hoodie job to do this weekend, 3 color, it will be done in 20 min, it would have taken me hours on the manual.

I have a 60 burnout tank top order that the customer wants their logo non distressed and with burnouts that's tough. I figured out a way to use plastisol transfer release paper under the tank top with some light spray adhesive, print the tank top then send though the dryer and peel the transfer from under the garment right away. It seem to work and was held up to 5 washings so far. When I run production I am going to document it and post a thread

Now that sounds interesting, you may even try parchment paper. If I understand what your doing you just need somewhere for the ink to land and dry as not to leave holes in the design.
Some day I just may have to meander down to your shop. Our orders are nothing like that , most small 12 pieces or less. I think my biggest order was 200+ pieces one color 2 sides. Paid for my dryer.
When you get it all figured out post some pictures , I am really interested in how that is going to come out.

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