Matsui RC ink is not holding 1 wash

3614 Views 25 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Hegemone, Apr 30, 2012

davidhs5

Discussion Starter · Apr 17, 2012

I just Printed a Matsui RC ink on Polyester polo T-Shirt and after Curing i washed and most of the ink washed off. Please i need help, i have 1,500 to print in 5 days and i day is gone

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

Diver86

· #2 · Apr 17, 2012 (Edited)

They are under cured.... For sure! There is no other reason, unless you mixed something else into the ink that is not compatible with it.

It is a water-base ink and you must COMPLETELY remove all moisture from the ink before it begins to cure.
It is best to use a dryer with air scrubber, so when the water vaporizes into steam, it can be removed from the surface of the ink.

If you don't remove the steam, it acts like an atmosphere over the ink and blocks the infrared heat waves.

For printers who have "borderline" dryers, we recommend adding "Matsu Fixer F Cure Additive"
It makes the ink film slightly stiffer, but it increases wash fastness tremendously.

Oh yeah, one more thing...... Run all the shirts through the dryer first and print them the same day. That will remove residual moisture that can affect adhesion and printability.

davidhs5

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 17, 2012

Thanks a lot, its been solved i Dried the T-Shirt after printing and i set my heat press to 148 degree Celsius for 60Sec without teflon paper. I have washed it and its still the same

davidhs5

Discussion Starter · #4 · Apr 17, 2012

The Print is fantastic i can assure u, Matsui is the real Deal.

Diver86

· #5 · Apr 17, 2012

Glad you got it going.
Hmmmmmmm......... 1,500 shirts to cure in a heat press? You're gonna need every bit of those 5 days!! Hahahaha

davidhs5

Discussion Starter · #6 · Apr 17, 2012

thanks man

Stan Hoover

· #7 · Apr 24, 2012

This thread caught my eye.

I have been reluctant to print 100% Polyester with waterbased inks. Be sure to post back regarding this job, even a few weeks out, to see if you have any issues.

But wow! 60 seconds X 1500...isn't that 25 (twenty five) hours? YIKES! That's without loading and unloading.

I have a marginal dryer for sure, but I slow down the belt and drop the temps so it hits 330 F for about 3 minutes. I have no problems with wash fastness printing cotton tees. I do, however, walk a tightrope with regard to scorching lights.

Stan

davidhs5

Discussion Starter · #8 · Apr 24, 2012

I finished the 1500 prints successfully. I need a Conveyor Dryer that is withing $5,000.00 and $6,000.00.

Hegemone

· #9 · Apr 24, 2012

I go for 2.5 minutes with a flash, not forced air, and its been a great ink for me. Hits 320 minimum all over and I am yet to have a cure issue. I think I would check my flash or belt setup before I heat pressed. I would even let them set for a while and then re cure them all on the belt or flash before I would press them because I would think you would get press marks on the poly and also just for the labor savings since I could flash more then one at a time.

I am guessing there is a Moisture wick treatment or some other coating on the poly that is messing with your cure time but that just a thought. Prolly drawing the water deeper into the fabric. even though I love matsui waterbased I would have gone with an athletic/poly specific plastisol for this just because of the risk of running into the above problem. The cost of the special order ink is more then repaid in the time lost in the pressing or recurring. I could do a lot of orders in 3 work days just lost to the pressing.

My two cents, toss them in a well and make a wish.

See less See more

mimic

· #10 · Apr 27, 2012

How do you flash more than 1 at a time?

Hegemone

· #11 · Apr 28, 2012

I flash cure on a line set up. I can often times fit two designs on my flash platforms kind of like ganging under the flash.

See less See more

Diver86

· #12 · Apr 28, 2012

You would be better off with one of these.... takes up a lot less space:

See less See more

Hegemone

· #13 · Apr 28, 2012

Lol true but it wouldn't be made by me out of free stuff. I am pretty ok with my four station set up.

Diver86

· #14 · Apr 28, 2012

heheheheh FREE is always good! And a nice sense of accomplishment too.
Good job

Pvasquez

· #15 · Apr 28, 2012

I know I'm late to the game but your not supposed to use waterbase ink on 100% poly unless you use underbase binder it's for blend or 100% cotton I guess if you got it to work your lucky.

Hegemone

· #16 · Apr 28, 2012

It's my understanding that the primary problems with printing poly is stretch and dye migration not adhesion unless the polyester is coated like it is in lots of denier fabrics. If you aren't worried about migration and the fabric isn't stretchy then a stretch base or binder isn't always necessary. I don't do much with 100 percents so my knowledge is from limited experimentation. So I guess trial and error can lead to acceptable results.

Pvasquez

· #17 · Apr 28, 2012

Hegemone said:
It's my understanding that the primary problems with printing poly is stretch and dye migration not adhesion unless the polyester is coated like it is in lots of denier fabrics. If you aren't worried about migration and the fabric isn't stretchy then a stretch base or binder isn't always necessary. I don't do much with 100 percents so my knowledge is from limited experimentation. So I guess trial and error can lead to acceptable results.

My point is waterbase ink will not work on 100% polyester unless you use a special product called underbase binder.

Plastisol different animal that will just need to use a bleed resistant on darks but on lights and whites you can use regular plastisol if you need stretch add it to it. If its 100% poly stretch darks use performance ink ( Wilflex )

Hegemone

· #18 · Apr 28, 2012

plastisol and water-based are both the same particles suspended in a base one is a plasticizer and the other is water based. Once cured they are both fundamentally the same. Waterbased will adhere to uncoated polyester but will have problems with bleed and stretch which is overcome with other bases. If bleed and stretch are not issues for the polyester you are using then the bases for those problems aren't required. The manufacturer doesn't recommend this but it is possible. I have printed to denier polyester several times with out issue. I am not making suggestions or recommendations just sharing my experiences.

My two cents. Toss them in a well and make a wish.

davidhs5

Discussion Starter · #19 · Apr 29, 2012

What Binder can i use with matsui RC ink when printing on 100% polyester. I think i have just messed my self up.

Pvasquez

· #20 · Apr 29, 2012

davidhs5 said:
What Binder can i use with matsui RC ink when printing on 100% polyester. I think i have just messed my self up.

There are two RC Matsui inks one is a RC PC ( pigment concentrate ) that you make ready for use colors and one that is RC RFU ( ready for use ) that you can print with or mix together to make other colors.

If you want to use RC RFU on 100% polyester you would first need to use a product called 301 underbase binder ( this is not a base that you would mix colors into this is a base that you would print on the good first "flash" then put RFU on top) please don't confuse the binder part it is used so that product will bond to 100% polyester and now waterbase will bond to the binder.

If your using 100% white polyester I would go with straight plastisol or dye sublimation.

I hope this helps and I sure hope you did not print 1500 shirts not finding a solution to prevent the wash fastness issue.

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.