Manufacturing and sewing production information needed - is notching for center front, center back and shoulder seams necessary on the neck banding?

re: Manufacturing and sewing production information needed - is notching for center front, center back and shoulder seams necessary on the neck banding?

Hi David

Hopefully I can give you a few answers. Quick answer is no notches are not usually used on knitwear patterns. Because SA is smaller and fabric prone to unravellng (I think that is the term, sorry brain has gone blank at the moment) notches really are only used where amounts differ from industry standards.

No, banding is not notched, it is applied direct from the roll and not cut into individual pieces. The shirt is partially sewn and then the bands are applied while the garment is still on the flat and then the final seams sewn and the seam allowance then secured.

I am not sure what else you want to know, David and I don't want to teach my granny to suck eggs (so to speak). I hope this clears up the basic questions.

Let me know if there is anything else you want to know.

Kim

David Brian said:

Thanks Kim,
I am told that some neck bands that are two ply or applied with a 4 thread overlock can require cut pieces but this is not my situation. Much appreciated.
David

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Hi again David

Glad I could help. It occurred to me later that maybe I should have explained a bit more but my brain was in receivership at the time. When the bands are applied they are done so on a coverstitch machine. "So what?" you say, well, coverstitch machines, unlike an overlocker or sewing machines, don't allow for chaining on as the threads break if there is no fabric to sew through (and are they a pain to re-thread - don't ask me how I know this!). To overcome this the ribbing is simply applied in one long strip with the tshirts sort of hanging off it and then it is cut apart. The jig that folds the binding and feeds it into the coverstitch machine sits at a 90 degree angle to the pressure foot/needles so it is the folding and turning of the ribbing prior to being sewn that actually tensions the ribbing giving that it has that nice smooth look.

Hope that wasn't too much info.

It is only recently I realised just how little information there is on places like youtube etc on the commercial construction of various types of garments. It quite surprises me. If I ever get 5 whole minutes together prehaps I should put some vids up there myself as I am a big believer in sharing knowledge.

Anyway, David. If you get the chance, do tell us what sort of garments you normally patternmake for. I have a non-tshirt business that I do my own designing/patternmaking/construction for which is mainly denim (www.wheeliewear.com.au) but the fashion design course I studied did have a good size portion dealing with knit wear and lingerie which was very intersting.

Kim