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Discussion Starter #1
Hey hows it going people. I am in Toronto Canada

So i am making t-shirts for charity, but i seem to be having a little bit of a problem in the process of production.

Heat press: 15/15 suni i think its called
Printer: r1400 epson wide body format
transfer paper dark: using a blue grid backing (from transfer paper)
Transfer paper light: To be determined...but looking in to jet trans silver. (trying to expert dark before i start trying light Tees)

so I am pressing at 350 degrees F, for 21 seconds,
the color of the prints are amazing, Ive got it down almost perfect, but i noticed that some of the corners are coming up on some of the T-shirts, i also noticed that the ones that happened to get pressed twice the amount of corners coming up.....were a lot less.

sorry for the boring introduction....but i am stressed for time and MONEY....haha

on a last note i had a prototype done at "come get customized" and i loved the transfer paper they were using, it was textured, but very strong...if anyone know what they were using or something better it would be awesome. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE AWESOME>

THANKS
 

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you might want to consider changing the type ink your printer uses, if you haven't done so. The 1400 OEMink is claria...a water resistant ink and in the opinion of most of us not ideally suited for transfers. I prefer a pigment ink and you can get after market carts or refill systems that will use that ink. One such is .:: Cobra Ink Systems::. This is where the term CIS began as far as transfers on dark garments...good luck!...I have yet to find a transfer paper for that which is not heavy and plastic feeling
 

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Thanks a lot.....so as for pigmant ink....i can just get an external cartridge and it will work fine with my printer?

as for the dark transfers....the one that feels plasticky.....is that like an extra strength one...?

i jsut dont want to be embarrassed and give Ts that are going to fall off after a couple washes.....

i mean the transfer paper im using from transfer paper canada is suppose to really amazing....

are you saying its just the ink thats my problem?

thanks again
 

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If the corners are falling off or lifting. It is normally to do with your heat application.
Most transfer papers come with instructions and they should be followed to the exact. This includes how to peel it whether cold or hot as well as pressure, time, temperature.

Also, you will have to account for different tolerances. Examples include different heat presses (sometimes temperature of a heat press may not be even all around or the reading on the heat press may not be same as the actual temperature) and different fabric material (some material is more heat resistant and require more heat, etc.). Also keep in mind that the pressure is important as well.

Personally, I would print a full page with several small images, and use that as a test sample. Press the small images onto a dark shirt that you don't want using different settings and just play around with the settings such as more/less time, temp until you get a sample that is correct for your heat press and for your type of fabric. Then do a wash test (throw it in the washing machine) If everything is fine, use that as your control sample and keep it somewhere safe and write down the settings you used.
 

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yeah thats what i was doing when figuring out what kind of paper to use...i guess its a process haha...ill start doing the same for all the other factors....

do you know how to stop the whitening around the seems and edges on dark colors?

and i did a red T and the whole imprint of the press showed up...im guessing that has to do with heat...but how can i stop that...is it just a cheap shirt?

whats the transfer paper that feels a little more plasticky, but is way stronger?

sorry about all the questions....just been trial and error for 3 days now..and i think i need a little help in the right direction.
 

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Depending on your transfer paper, sometime that cannot be helped. Some transfer papers are better at not having the edges than other. Sometimes more pressure helps, but not always. A good tip is to design your shirts so that there is a white border around your logos. This will make it look like you did it on purpose. The white border normally makes your images stand out more as well. If you have a cutter, you can also use heat transfer vinyls for lettering.

Regarding the red shirts leaving a press mark... Did you let the shirt cool? I've noticed with all red shirts, whenever they are heated, the color changes where the heat is applied. But sometimes it will revert back to the original color once it is cool.

If it doesn't revert to the original colors, it could be because the dye is reacting to the heat and some of it is coming off the shirt. The solution is to either get a better quality shirt with the dye not reacting to the heat or try a different paper with a lower application temperature so that the lower heat temp doesn't activate the dyes.
 

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yeah thats what i was doing when figuring out what kind of paper to use...i guess its a process haha...ill start doing the same for all the other factors....

do you know how to stop the whitening around the seems and edges on dark colors?

and i did a red T and the whole imprint of the press showed up...im guessing that has to do with heat...but how can i stop that...is it just a cheap shirt?

whats the transfer paper that feels a little more plasticky, but is way stronger?

sorry about all the questions....just been trial and error for 3 days now..and i think i need a little help in the right direction.
All the darks are pretty bulletproof and plasticky/rubbery. If you WANT that feature, you shouldn't be having any trouble finding it, and the cheaper brands seem to run thicker. I use Neenah Jet-Opaque II for Darks. It's very sturdy, but thinner than some others, so it's less heavy on the shirt. I like 3G Jet-Opaque and Everlast better, but they are difficult to handle because they're so much thinner, and I got tired of them curling up under the press before I even had a chance to use them. My trash can only holds so much.

The white edge is something you just have to cut away before pressing--with light transfers any "white" will go clear upon pressing (and some brands will wash off entirely), but the white of the dark transfer is an actual part of the opaque layer that is underneath your design; you have to cut it off with an X-acto or scissors or a plotter. It won't "wash off".

Or, as Joto suggested, work it into the design if possible, as a white outline.
 
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