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Have you guys given up? I hope not because it's a nice challenge for someone to test their skills.

Here are a few tips to help.

1) You always have to take into account the paper advance mechanism (the part with the rubber that push the paper in) that feed the paper to trigger the paper feed switch (pf switch). The pf switch is what tell the printer where the paper begins and end. But the paper advancing portion has to be in it's home position (out of the paper path) or you will get a paper error.

2) The printer will give an error if it sense the timing wheel going in the reverse direction if it expect it to be going the forward direction. Hence you will have to use another circuit to control the motor to head it back to the home position. I am working on a circuit that will do that right now.

I am working on a 1400 build a few hour a week when I get time. I will toss up a few pics for your guys.

Best of luck for who is bold enough to try this. It can get a bit technical.

ps
Forgot to mention that I'm building a flatbed with two shirt platforms.
 

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I did promise to provide some pictures of my project. I am working on the printer hacking portion and will work on the box portion after. I have already drawn the measurements for the box and the t-shirt platters already.

I have combined the asf motor with a chunk of the side where it is mounted and affix the relay board to it. I have seen a few builders done this and it is not that hard to do. I now call the unit my asf assembly.

The asf assembly is mounted in the position where the paper feed (pf) motor was.
 

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Because my printer will be a flatbed where the printer will be moving instead of the t-shirt platters. I have to route all connections out of the printer to the box where I will have the power terminated. The pulley that moves the printer will have the timing wheel (pf encoder) attached to it so I have to route the cables for that too into the box also.

As you see I have the ac power in and the dc power out on the same connector. The usb and the connection to the pf encoder sensor on the other connector. The usb cables must be shielded and grounded to prevent interference.

I have used a pc board as a jump off point with connectors in case I have to disassemble for maintenance.
 

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Now for the pulley module that will be place in one end of the box. I have built everything in modules so I can disassemble if I have to.
You can also see that I have replaced the pf motor with a much larger motor with higher torque. I have also used the original pulley belt.

Will have more pics soon.
 

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I will use pulley cable on both end of shaft. As you can see in the picture with the motor there is a pulley on the shaft with the coding wheel like a worm gear. The cable would wrap around that and do the pulling and pushing. The cable on the apposite end of the shaft would be for stability and smooth movement.
 

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don't use the spring, you will get back latch when it pulls from that side.
Mount belt to the gantry on both sides.
You are so right. I hadn't given it that much thought. I am using cable so I will make the pulleys on the far end adjustable the same way I did the motor. I would then tighten them in place when I have the right tension.
 

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Please can any one help me
i Build my first c88 dtg but no ink cameing out
the printer befor Build print good

is the print head clog ?

and how can fix that problem?
Please give more details.
1) Are you getting any error lights
2) What ink you're using?
3) Did you leave printer unattended for a log period of time where the ink dry up?

Explain everything and I'm sure someone can point you in the right direction.
 

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A few days will not dry up your ink. Also original epson ink will not work for dtg printing it will not hold up. Try and do a printer test independent of your pc to see if it's not just a communication problem.

See if this page can help you troubleshoot your problem.
How do I Troubleshoot an Epson Stylus C88+ Printer? | eHow.com
 

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Let me see if I understand what you're saying.
When you print the printer goes through the motion but there is no printout on your material?
If that is the case there can be a number of things to look at.
1) Check the distance between you print head and material. Remember if it was printing on paper the distance would be a few millimeters.
2) If you have a driver problem the printer would go through the movement like it is printing but prints sporadic characters. I'm going through all this because you have not quite given a proper description of your problem.

The link you provided is referring to an external continuous ink system (cis). Some people do not prime the system before use and end up with air in tube system. The reference in the link is very vague.
 

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Can you provide a video? Also imagine your drawer as the paper in a printer. The printer moves the paper until it trigger the paper feed switch, hence your drawer paper feed trigger is too far away from the switch. It should be no more than an inch and a half (1 1/2"). Some people just keep the switch triggered all the time and the drawer will not move. Then after the print job completes they release the switch or the printer will keep advancing trying to find the end of the print surface.
 

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You are getting an error. Pay attention to the "red blinking led". This is an indication that something is not right. You did not show enough of it. But I'm thinking you are a getting a paper jam error. Which mean the carriage is not meeting the "PE sensor" in time. The black lever that detects the paper "your carriage" is not in the correct position when it's ready to print.

Also what are you trying to print? There should be nothing printed because the error show up before the printer is ready to print. If you are seeing ink on material then the head is too close.

ps
I just got a copy of the service manual and there are two sensors that you need to pay attention to. The PE sensor and the PW sensor.

Did you build this project yourself? If you did not then get the person who built it to make the checks for you.
 

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There are quite a lot of posts all over this forum about inks. It can literally get you confused. But I think it all depends on your market and availability of supplies plus cost. It also depends on what brand of printer and model that determines what type of ink you can use.

I would say experiment with what you have and see what result you get. Experience is the best teacher ;).
 

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Nice job! Now you have to do the wash test to see how well the image hold up to washing. Leave to soak in detergent water for a few hours and wash about four times. If the colors still look bright then your ink may hold up.

The next job is your website. I can help you with that too. PM me your email address.

Do you think you're up for that?
 
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