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I'm over whelmed with information on exposure units. I've been looking @ the pro's & con's of buying a complete unit & a diy project.

At this point, I'm willing to do a diy project to save myself several hundred dollars for other materials I need when I find some really good plans that will allow me to do an exposure unit with halftone capabilities.

Is it possible to even build an exposure unit w/ halftone capabilities for less than $400?
 

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There are numerous vids and tutorials all over the web with loads of different titles...
Here one I found more recently...
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZmwbOgh-pU&feature=player_embedded[/media]


Hope this Helps :)

Eze
 

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i THINK PEOPLE USE A PS CAPABLE PRINTER OR DO HALFTONES IN A PROGRAM, scuse the caps, I could do halftones in corel x4 but seem to of forgotten how to do it tho'...something about print to file ... But you can build your own exposure unit with a 500w shop light.
Ive burned screens with the light 12" above my screen for 13 minutes.
 

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My apologies for asking silly questions....

Did I not post the video or did someone remove it... I know the site went down briefly earlier, very briefly I might add?

Just Curious

Eze
 

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I have a DIY Exposure unit and burn half tones great with it. I use a 1000 Metal Halide Bulb and a vacume hold down. The whole unit cost me about 300 from start to finish.
 

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Vacuum blanket is more important than light source. I built a couple of units with the unfiltered blacklights and a vacuum lid using pond liner from Home Depot that did a pretty good job. A single halogen worklight technically would render a better halftone than the fluorescent tubes, but the exposure times are so long and the heat is an issue. Dual-cure emulsions also render the best halftones, but take a little longer than the pure photopolymers like QTX. A commercially made metal halide unit is far and away the best, and when you read posts by folks who say they don't know how they got by without one, they know what they're talking about. They are expensive, though, and usually the last piece of the puzzle to fit in because of expense. I bought an AmerGraph 150 and it was money well spent.
 

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Hi, just wanted to add a question to this thread since it seems to be along the lines of my issue. So I have a 500 watt halogen lamp fixed with pvc pipes at my exposure unit. I've been experimenting to see exactly how detailed you can get with it. I did two fairly detailed halftone images and while I can see the image in the screen, the details either completely disappear in some areas during washout, or will not washout at all(using an electric powerwasher). My question is, should I just stop trying to do halftones with this light unit, because it's just not going to happen? Or is there any trick that I'm missing. Also if anyone can recommend where to find online a decent exposure unit that can handle all the detail that would be wondrous!

Thanks!
Ari
 

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I am assuming you have a unit that looks like the one you can get in the kits out there. While I have never used one, I have never heard any successful stories of half tones burned using one. Are you exposing it long enough? If your half tones are washing out it sounds like it isnt getting enough UV
 

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Hi, just wanted to add a question to this thread since it seems to be along the lines of my issue. So I have a 500 watt halogen lamp fixed with pvc pipes at my exposure unit. I've been experimenting to see exactly how detailed you can get with it. I did two fairly detailed halftone images and while I can see the image in the screen, the details either completely disappear in some areas during washout, or will not washout at all(using an electric powerwasher). My question is, should I just stop trying to do halftones with this light unit, because it's just not going to happen? Or is there any trick that I'm missing. Also if anyone can recommend where to find online a decent exposure unit that can handle all the detail that would be wondrous!

Thanks!
Ari
I personally feel like there are three main components to detailed screens:
-Single light source...so you will not have cut off from multiple lights
-No space between film and emulsion...same reason, no cutting of the light
-Dark film... so that it does not start to expose the details.

So if you are having problems I would start checking these areas first.
 

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i built my exposure unit and my light source is a 400w metal halide bulb. my vacuum top is rubber pond liner. and a $20 shop vac. i burn beautiful screen half tones, sharp edges, anything and everything in 1 minute 30 seconds.
 

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I got a light table from a college redistribution center (second hand store) with 6- 18in. florescent bulbs replaced with unfiltered uv bulbs. I put a 1/4in thick piece of glass over it and with a piece of 2in thick foam rubber sandwiched between black felt to go against the screen and a piece of plywood to set a 35lb. dumbbell on to get a positive contact. it cost under $70, most of cost was the bulbs and not including the weight. I can burn 55 per inch half tones which is about as fine as I want to print on T's.
 

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As for the halogen unit on PVC pipes, how far away from the bulb is the screen? It should be the same distance as the diagonal measure across the screen. From the sound of your comments, you might be getting a hot spot where parts are exposing correctly and some aren't.
 

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i built my exposure unit and my light source is a 400w metal halide bulb. my vacuum top is rubber pond liner. and a $20 shop vac. i burn beautiful screen half tones, sharp edges, anything and everything in 1 minute 30 seconds.

I would love to see a few pictures of this unit! I am thinking about doing a similar build would love a little guidance that pictures could provide, thanks! I realize that this is a super old post BTW ;)
 

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Scott. If you do a search you can find some very nice DIY exposure units. I am in the middle of building one now but got very busy and printed most of the weekend or I would have for the frame done.
 

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Can someone give me the info on the ballast. I'm having a problem finding a ballast for a 1000w metal halide bulb that will work with a 110v or 220v outlet. Also where to purchase it would be very helpful also. Thanks.
 

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Based on my own limited experience as an old guy who is a newbie here, I can attest to the knowledge of a fine "old-school" (can we still use that term?) gentleman who has been in this business for well over 30 years; he has been "around the block", as we old guys like to say.

On any publicly accessible forum, there are many opinions, but after a while, you have to agree- some are easier to implement than others.
To me, Common Sense dictates which ideas are both affordable and likely to work - for me.
It's up to every individual to choose which works for them.

Building an Exposure Unit

FREE PLANS FOR AN EXPOSURE UNIT - This easy to build, inexpensive (< $100) has accomplished everything I have needed an exposure unit to do, from simple 1 color exposures to print on 110 mesh, to half tones and 4 color process with 305 mesh using this idea.
I am currently using Ulano Orange, but have used Chromablue as well as various other diazos, and can expose anything in less than 1:45.

It can't hurt to try it. It helped me a lot.
As they used to say, "There's no substitute for experience."
 
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