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Over the years, when purchasing dryers, we were always told that 3 phase was a little less expensive to run by folks who knew a lot more than we did, but I'm always open to new info. We've had a few all electric dryers, but eventually switched to all gas, much less expensive. We've always been in a commercial situation though, never residential. There are various writings out there to dispute you, but they don't apply to the OP issues I don't think. Perhaps it's best with the heavier industrial motors and heat applications. The blower motor on our Interchange MD-8 is wired 3 phase, but our ancient Cincinnati Demon (35 years old, all infrared) uses 3 phase for the heat, but taps a single leg to run the belt. I'm sure going to miss figuring this stuff out when I retire.
 

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Over the years, when purchasing dryers, we were always told that 3 phase was a little less expensive to run by folks who knew a lot more than we did
People talking nonsense is common. Also people often misunderstand things.

our ancient Cincinnati Demon (35 years old, all infrared) uses 3 phase for the heat, but taps a single leg to run the belt.
Whenever possible single phase is preferable (less complexity), but here is a basic idea of how things work.
a) The electricity grid is 3-phase.
b) You can use all 3-phases (400v) with 4 wires, or just one of the three phases (220v each) which is just 2 wires.

The US system is a bit unusual because each phase is split in 2 parts locally, resulting in 3 wires and the 220v/110v options.

Note: In all cases there is also an additional ground wire
 

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People talking nonsense is common. Also people often misunderstanding things they don't understand.


Whenever possible single phase is preferable (less complexity), but here is a basic idea of how things work.
a) The electricity grid is 3-phase.
b) You can use all 3-phases (400v) with 4 wires, or just one of the three phases (220v each) which is just 2 wires.

The US system is a bit unusual because each phase is split in 2 parts locally, resulting in 3 wires and the 220v/110v options.

Note: In all cases there is also an additional ground wire
People talking crap is quite common, I agree. The people we've worked have all been pros though, with one them being the head maintenance person for Avery Dennison, you may have heard of them. What he didn't know, he knew where to find out, a great source, so you can see why I found him credible. Either way, thanks for the conversation. I'm just now, at the ripe age of 69, studying electronics so I can dabble in my guitar amps after I retire, and yes, I'm very aware of the deadly dangers inside an amp's electrolytic capacitors. Enjoy your day Tabob.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hello TABOB,

The electrician came to my house Wednesday July 7th. He's going to email me a quote hopefully soon.

I'm not sure if you can answer this but what do you think would be a good price to have the electrician rewire the heat press. I mean what do you think i should be expecting to pay to have this done. My wife thinking its going to be over $2000. I told her I can get a new single phase 31x39 press for $2600
 

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I'm not sure if you can answer this but what do you think would be a good price to have the electrician rewire the heat press. I mean what do you think i should be expecting to pay to have this done.
I wouldn't pay more than $200 and maybe another $100 for parts.

My wife thinking its going to be over $2000.
I wouldn't be surprised... but that would be an agency price.
You just have to ask around and find the right people (no third party involved).
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
TABOB,

I want to let you know and anyone that have commented on this post. I have appointment set for August 6th to have the heat press wired to 1 phase and other electrical work i need done. I will let everyone know how things turn out after its all done.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
TABOB,

The electrician came to rewire the heat press. He got it to heat up but the Digital Temperature Controller didn't work. Now I'm on the hunt for a replacement controller. The controller that was in the heat press do not have any markings on it so we have clue what to look for. Here's some pictures of the controller. I'm hoping someone can tell me what kind of controller this is. Auplex HPC-MHP01 31"X39" Manual Heat Press 3 phase. Any help will be appreciated.
 

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The electrician came to rewire the heat press. He got it to heat up but the Digital Temperature Controller didn't work.
Why? Was it faulty from the factory?

I'm hoping someone can tell me what kind of controller this is.
It's just a generic temperature controller.
They come in different shapes and sizes but they are interchangeable.
 

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Are you familiar with this type of digital controller. See pictures. The controller kit I purchased off Ebay didn't work completely.
Hopefully you can help me with this. The heat press heats up but I can't set the temperature without the correct controller.
You didn't have to replace the controller.
I suggested the eBay kit as a completereplacement, before seeing the photos.

Anyway... the new controller should work as well.
If the heat press is wired correctly and it is heating up but does not stop at the set temperature, then you either have an issue with the thermocouple or the controller is faulty.
The thermocouple is how the controller detects the temperature of the heat press.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Why? Was it faulty from the factory?

I'm not sure because i bought it second hand and the guy I purchase from never had it hooked up. The controller you showed me picture of I purchase off ebay it powered on but it didn't have all the connections. The Electrician was confused saying he need the schematic to know how to hook it up


It's just a generic temperature controller.
They come in different shapes and sizes but they are interchangeable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
The first picture is the controller from ebay and the second picture has a connection where im pointing to with the screw driver. The heat press has no schematic to show him how to connect it. He also said the ebay controller was the wrong amperage or volts. im not sure which one he said
 

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I'm not sure because i bought it second hand and the guy I purchase from never had it hooked up.
OK... Hopefully the electrician tried to use what was in there first, so we can assume the original controller as faulty.
Good thing you have a replacement.

The Electrician was confused saying he need the schematic to know how to hook it up
This is ridiculous, but I'm not surprised.
Here is how simple it is

He also said the ebay controller was the wrong amperage or volts. im not sure which one he said
Not true.
The controller takes 110 to 240v and does not need much amperage. All it does is switching the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
OK... Hopefully the electrician tried to use what was in there first, so we can assume the original controller as faulty.
Good thing you have a replacement.


This is ridiculous, but I'm not surprised.
Here is how simple it is


Not true.
The controller takes 110 to 240v and does not need much amperage. All it does is switching the relay.
Thank You I'll show him this video . Hopefully he'll understand.
 

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Thank You I'll show him this video . Hopefully he'll understand.
He will understand... This is not rocket science.

He also said the ebay controller was the wrong amperage or volts.
The voltage is correct and the amperage is irrelevant because it will be going through the contactor.
Basically the controller is switching on the relay, which is switching on the the contactor powering the heating elements.

You could obviously use a high amperage relay and connect it directly to the heating elements.
I'd get the 120A option because these cheap ones are overrated and do fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
He will understand... This is not rocket science.

This Electrician told me from the start he would have everything hooked up in 1 hour. Four hour later he was giving up. I could tell he was getting frustrated and start making excuses. I had to push him to continue until he got the heat press to heat up. I really feel like nothing is wrong with original controller. He was going to quit on me and leave high and dry but I talked him into trying the ebay controller. He got the Ebay controller to power on then quickly said this one will not work because it the wrong volts or amperage.
He also lied to me when he came back stating that his boss looked all over for the original controller then later said his boss was just so busy he didn't have time to look for a controller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
TABOB,

Do you know were I can a short body temp controller that will fit in the heat press control box. I'm only finding that small and long body controllers. The temp control box opening is 2.3/4" x 2. 3/4" x 2 1/2" Deep.

Thanks
 

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This Electrician told me from the start he would have everything hooked up in 1 hour. Four hour later he was giving up. I could tell he was getting frustrated and start making excuses.
It would take me 5 to 15 minutes and I'm not an electrician. LOL!
I think there are different grades of electricians and some can only do routine jobs.

I really feel like nothing is wrong with original controller.
I think so as well, but it makes no difference.
The problem is obviously not which controller to use... The problem is that your electrician cannot wire a heater.

Do you know were I can a short body temp controller that will fit in the heat press control box. I'm only finding that small and long body controllers. The temp control box opening is 2.3/4" x 2. 3/4" x 2 1/2" Deep.
I don't know, but I'd just replace that odd shaped steel junction box with a larger one, and cut a hole in it for the new controller.
 
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