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Yes, it matters just as much as ever. Use an angle of 22 or 22.5. That is unlikely to result in unwanted patterns as it interacts with the grid of the mesh and the grid of the fabric.

Frequency is the resolution of the print. The rule of thumb is that the mesh needs to be between 4 and 5 times the LPI, frequency. So that's 22 to 27. That's a pretty coarse halftone, but it all depends on the look you want.

The hard part of halftones is Dot Gain. Everything from the ink to how you work the squeegee to how many prints are in the run become variables that you have to compensate for in the art or on press ... and on-press options are somewhat limited.

That said, they are fun, at least if you keep it simple.
 

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Halftones are, at best, problematic. I would personally never run black halftones on: 1) a white mesh as the light WILL reflect and scatter. 2) a 110 mesh as it is too coarse unless as previously stated you are running a 30 line or less.
We use primarily 55-65 line with 150-305 mesh depending on color, design, etc. The only time, for example, that I would use a 150 mesh is with white ink 55 line art and an elliptical dot at 22.5 degree angle. Make SURE your mesh was stretched straight as this affects the angle of the film. Tension should be between 25-30 N/cm.
 
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