If that's the case, look up the thread on cold peeling. I believe what you do is you press the t-shirt with the teflon paper, you let it cool, stretch it, and then you repress it for 6-8 seconds with parchment paper, stretch, cool, and peel.
Cold peel will CRACK if you don't re-heat the transfer a second time. Good job, Spank, I see you have the re-heat in the instructions. I don't know if 6-8 seconds is long enough on a cold peel. I'll go get Rhonda's thread for reference since cold peel is mentioned here.
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t56833.html
It's important to stress the second RE-HEAT or the shirt will likely fail on the first wash.
spankthafunk said:
I think I got this right, but I'm sure Kelly will be along some time soon to correct me.
Haha, man, is that a good thing? You did a great job, Spank! The second heating is in there, muy importante!
tasha said:
Yes I am using 100% cotton Gildan shirts....so you're thinking the cold peel technique may help?
The cold peel (with a second heating

) that folks are trying out is to get the JPSS to have a smoother hand/feel on the shirt. It doesn't seem to affect dullness or brightness. The original finish of JPSS after the hot peel is slightly gritty, and some folks are trying to get that flat. They have found a cold peel does this, but they also found shirts that are cold peeled crack in the wash (cold wash).
Rhonda has discovered by heating the shirt a second time, she was able to wash it without cracking. She may have cracked the case on cold peel.
If you want to cold peel, please read Rhonda's thread to fully understand what makes it work and what makes it fail.
I've read that thread, but I don't seem to notice anyone there using the JPSS and Durabrite inks...the original poster seems to use Canon,
The first shirt in the thread, the Virgo, I printed with Canon regular dye ink.
The second shirt in the thread, the Car Deal Connection shirt, I printed with Durabrite pigment ink from my c88+.
Folks were asking if Durabrite and JPSS hold up under bleach, so I bleached that one, too. So that shirt is the Durabrite and JPSS.
tasha said:
and others mentioned heat transfer ink, which leads me to believe it has something to do with the type of ink I am using? I'm not sure....
spankthafunk said:
Well it shouldn't be the ink because plenty of posters have used Durabrite Inks and have had no problems.
That's the funny thing with Durabrite ink, and it seems to be the ink I read about most that acts different for different people.
If you ask Melissa/AngelicEndevors (who wrote the durabrite you are fired thread) she detests Durabrite ink from what she went thru with it, yet I haven't had one issue yet.
But Tasha, if you don't already want to change inks for the sake of changing (cost, color, whatever the reason) maybe those contrast & bright settings will be enough for what you want to do.
spankthafunk said:
Yea I really am not the best person to answer all these questions for you, but I have been doing a lot of research on this information and started saving threads pertaining to it.
He sure has been researching!!! And you did a great job, Spank! All that reading has paid off, and shows. Once you get a press in your hands, you'll be pressing shirts from minute #1 -- you've got it all down pat. Great job!
Okay, hope this helps out, most of this was going a-ok, but I wanted to add a little bit that wasn't yet here. Have a great day, all and I hope it works out for you, Tasha.
