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You need an emulsion that's resistant to solvent inks. I used Ulano QX-1 for both solvent and plastisol.
You'll also need to work somewhere with very good ventilation, and a $30 respirator from Home Depot is a good idea, too, if you like having brain cells.
Get the retarder to add at about 10% to the ink. Makes all the difference in the world keeping the ink open while you print. Print on 230 mesh. Flood after each print stroke to keep the stencil open, and print a sign at least every 30 seconds or so. You can't walk away for a smoke or to dig your underwear out of your butt.
Have everything ready to go before putting the ink in the screen, including a place to lean your signs while they dry, unless you're fortunate enough to have a drying rack.
As soon as you're done printing, remove excess ink, and start wiping the screens out with a solvent screen wash, then take them to your washout sink, spray with your regular ink degradent to remove any residual ink film, rinse, then reclaim unless you're saving the stencil.
I used Nazdar CoroGloss inks and their retarder and screen wash. Worked flawlessly as long as I moved along.
The worst part is the cleanup. The ink is sticky. It's like wiping a fast-drying syrup out of the screen. Lots of rags. As I said, have everything ready for every aspect of the process from start to finish.
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