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Hey everyone, I really have enjoyed this forum. Everone seems so willing to mentor all us newbies . We have made lots of progress in our little screenprinting adventure,in just a short time. But aligning the shirts are eating our lunch . it takes us way to long ! Anyone willing to give out a few secrets?

Granikat
 

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Ha I was just thinking about this today and totally know what you mean. I haven't found any real trick to it, just lots of practice. The hardest time I have to align things is when the shirts come and they are kind krinkled towards the bottom. Makes it crazy to align the bottom and get the straight.

I would love to hear some experts on this as well.
 

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I don't think there's any real secret. Make sure the collar is centered. Hold up both sleeves and see if the seams are the same distance from the pallet. Do the same with the shoulder seam, and the bottom of the shirt. Like metalbone said though it's really just a lot of practice.
 

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Biggest thing is making sure your platen size is adequate. 3x shirts on a standard platen are not easy to gauge. Same goes for kids one on adult size platen.

My biggest obstacle is I get a bit obsessive compulsive with it and then it drives me nuts or I make more mistakes. It too a while but now I can fly through with little to know issues. Try not to over think it.

After pulling down I pull back up using the top corners to even it out. Some times you can also use the fabric pattern as another aide (aide only).

If you don't hit dead on don't worry as with must designs if it slightly misaligned you won't be able to tell once it's worn. Now if your inches off center then yes you will be able to tell. Also don't trust where the tag is at to be considered center. Just keep trying it will get easier.
 

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Try folding it to match the shoulder seams & make a light crease from right under the collar to the middle lower than where the design will be, or the full length depending on the size of the image. The crease will come out when pressed or after it's washed. Just pinch the material, not with an iron. Works well for me.
 

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Pinch right where the shoulder seams meet the sleeves on both sides and pull out. It will make a horizontal crease at the neck line. Use that to level the shirt with the back of the platen. Once you get used to eyeballing this at a glance it becomes second nature.
 

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One thing I notice a lot of new people doing is when they put the shirt on and go to pull it back they don't lift up on the shirt. If the shirt is stuck to the pallet or hanging up on the corners when you go to pull it back you won't get it straight. Try giving a quick tug up to break the bond before pulling back. This also takes practice but it's crucial especially if you've just sprayed your pallets.
 

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Most my shirts have a seam that is straight most the time. Get good lighting and you'll probably see it.

It used to take me over an hour to load and print 50 shirts, a year and a half later and I can do 230 with no loss in accuracy.

Don't go too overboard with spray tak. Only spray it on the print area and use it lightly. Reapply more often, so you get consistent loads.

Pull shirt all the way down to the shoulders, pull back by the shoulder seams to ensure it's straight on the bottom hem. Pull back down evenly by the sides and then pull back by the shoulders to your print position. Check arm seams are equal and side seams (if the shirt is not a tube) at the bottom.

As you get better, you can just load to the shoulders, position and coach sleeve seams.
 

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Invest in a t-square it aids in making sure that your design is centered and straight on your screen. Use your t-square to find the center of your pallet length not width. Draw a line down the center from top to bottom. (On the pallet or pallet tape) also use the t-square to align, make sure design is straight and centered on pallet. If your design is not center and straight you will be fight an up hill battle to print straight and centered shirts. I use 20x24 screens so when burn my screens I place my image 5" or 6" from the top of the frame and you guessed it straight and centered and yes using my trusty t-square.


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I use a T-Square to draw my center lines on the platens themselves before spraying any adhesive. I then place a piece of clear masking over the top of the platen, print whatever it is onto the clear masking, cut where the top and bottom edges lay, and use my T-square to draw those lines on the platens as well.
 
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