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Based on how it looks, it's probably not a transfer film issue. Either the white ink is separated which results in watery, not solid print; or you set the rip software to print less white on dark area. If it's the latter, then I don't think there's an issue here. How's the nozzle check are the lines perfect?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for answering friend, yeah the nozzle check lines are perfect. What do you mean by separated? Is it bad ink or it’s a setting in the rip? Also white in the first layer of cmyk Colors is printing perfectly, when it goes above those Colors it gets watery
 

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Thanks for answering friend, yeah the nozzle check lines are perfect. What do you mean by separated? Is it bad ink or it’s a setting in the rip? Also white in the first layer of cmyk Colors is printing perfectly, when it goes above those Colors it gets watery
Hi there. I've been using DTF for awhile now myself commercially and I had the same problem in the beginning. It could be a number of issues, but what the DTF Tech relayed to me was that the temperature of the platen on your printer is not consistently hot enough to dry/gel the white ink as it passes over the color ink. (It could also be your white ink separating from the titanium dioxide crystals from not being shaken enough).

So two things you can do to correct the issue of the platen not being hot enough;

1) INCREASE the overall temperature of your printer's platen using the rip software. I'm using Mutoh Status Monitor along with FlexiDTF PRo rip.
For example, using FlexiDTF Pro Rip Software, when you double click any job you have queued up, you can click the printer icon in the rip, and you can adjust the temperature of the platen. The Flexi settings will override any settings you try to do in Mutoh Status Monitor, it is important to note. This will work for this job specifically. You can also make this change globally as well.

2) DECREASE the speed of your carriage when it prints from left to right. This will allow more time for the white ink to dry/gel so to speak, so that when the white begins printing after the color, it is less likely to be runny. If, in doing this, the white ink is STILL runny, I would say it is likely the white ink is separating from the titanium dioxide crystals.

I have found that in using both increasing the platen temp and slowing down the carriage speed consistently, my prints have never had this issue anymore with "runny white ink". I constantly have my printer platen set to 43 degrees celsius and have adjusted the speed of my printer's carriage to wait .3 seconds before each pass.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi there. I've been using DTF for awhile now myself commercially and I had the same problem in the beginning. It could be a number of issues, but what the DTF Tech relayed to me was that the temperature of the platen on your printer is not consistently hot enough to dry/gel the white ink as it passes over the color ink. (It could also be your white ink separating from the titanium dioxide crystals from not being shaken enough).
thank you very much friend!!!
 
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