Is RIP software necessary to make positives with Epson Artisan 1430? I am just beginning screen printing as a hobby but I want quality results. My funds are limited so if I can go without the RIP software right now while achieving a quality product I would like to. I am planning to buy a 1430 within the next day or two. My WF7010 has been a disappointment.
Is RIP software necessary to make positives with Epson Artisan 1430?
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The 7010 will print just about the same as the 1430 without a rip. You can print with any Epson without a rip but you need to learn how. Before buying a new printer contact me I'll help you get things figured out. PM me and I'll send you my cell phone and text number.
Sben, is there amy magical settings to make a denser positive? Currently I'm printing two positives and layering them to prevent the design areas from getting exposed also. I'm using photoshop and printing black at 100% cymk and exposing with 500w halogen at 9minutes.
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Geesh, 9 min exposure would drive me nuts. I'm at 130 seconds with a modified Atlas 5 way. 1000 w plus two 300's and two black light's. I'm using an RX595 and my positives are limited to 8.5 x 11. I paste-up on the light table...
I'm looking into a 4880 or 4900 and am wondering about rip too... I can't really justify the cost, after seeing what the ink-rape is like... I can't see dropping 500 bucks on rip, a grand on blackmax and ending up with a sweet printer that I can only use for positives... I'd be curled up crying in the corner of the shower...
Doubling up the positives will lead to trouble... you need better lamps.
I'm looking into a 4880 or 4900 and am wondering about rip too... I can't really justify the cost, after seeing what the ink-rape is like... I can't see dropping 500 bucks on rip, a grand on blackmax and ending up with a sweet printer that I can only use for positives... I'd be curled up crying in the corner of the shower...
Doubling up the positives will lead to trouble... you need better lamps.
Joined
·
225 Posts
Geesh, 9 min exposure would drive me nuts. I'm at 130 seconds with a modified Atlas 5 way. 1000 w plus two 300's and two black light's. I'm using an RX595 and my positives are limited to 8.5 x 11. I paste-up on the light table...
I'm looking into a 4880 or 4900 and am wondering about rip too... I can't really justify the cost, after seeing what the ink-rape is like... I can't see dropping 500 bucks on rip, a grand on blackmax and ending up with a sweet printer that I can only use for positives... I'd be curled up crying in the corner of the shower...
Doubling up the positives will lead to trouble... you need better lamps.
I'm looking into a 4880 or 4900 and am wondering about rip too... I can't really justify the cost, after seeing what the ink-rape is like... I can't see dropping 500 bucks on rip, a grand on blackmax and ending up with a sweet printer that I can only use for positives... I'd be curled up crying in the corner of the shower...
Doubling up the positives will lead to trouble... you need better lamps.
Joined
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8,278 Posts
First the 7010 is a pigment printer. So they won't be as dark as say the 1400/1430 or any printer with dye ink but will still work equally as well due to pigment in being UV resistant.
In photoshop make sure you file is in CMYK mode after your separations. If it isn't changing the black to 100% CMYK does nothing in RGB mode as it will automatically switch back to 100K.
Photo or best photo, premium or ultra premium photo paper, you can also click the advanced and turn up your saturation if needed.
Like I said they won't be 100% opaque but work just as well.
In photoshop make sure you file is in CMYK mode after your separations. If it isn't changing the black to 100% CMYK does nothing in RGB mode as it will automatically switch back to 100K.
Photo or best photo, premium or ultra premium photo paper, you can also click the advanced and turn up your saturation if needed.
Like I said they won't be 100% opaque but work just as well.
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