If you only own scissors and a heat press, it could be cheaper this way.1) Is it worth it using JetPro Sofstretch for one color type/graphics on a tshirts or onesies?
Pigment ink will give you the most choices of paper to use. JPSS is the best paper on the market, imo, and has shown to work with dye ink, but it is only for lights. If you need a dark paper, you'll need pigment ink.2) I have no idea what type of ink I should use once buying a color printer for the transfer papers.
That would allow you to use VINYL products, and if you are doing one color graphics, vinyl is a nice option for your product.3) Is a plotter necessary?
Hi Kelly. I love your posts but this time there is an option for the claria inks on darks. I have used the alpha gold for darks a couple of times and it stays true after numerous washes.I just hate the feel of plastic but it works. I am going to start using it (lacking anything better like ironall used to be)once I get a cutter for cutting out the designs. Its just too hard to do some things by hand cutting and a white background around the designs doesn't look good in my opinion.If you only own scissors and a heat press, it could be cheaper this way.
Pigment ink will give you the most choices of paper to use. JPSS is the best paper on the market, imo, and has shown to work with dye ink, but it is only for lights. If you need a dark paper, you'll need pigment ink.
That would allow you to use VINYL products, and if you are doing one color graphics, vinyl is a nice option for your product.
A cutter is also nice to have to use with heat transfer papers (would need an optical eye to contour cut transfer paper).
I know, I started to write about the Claria - but I backed it out of the post. David is getting red ink bleeding and it can't be solved for him yet. At this time, Masterkoin and I are both opening up our own 1400's and printing with the Claria inks. You can see MK's post above mine. I am going to do a red image and see what happens. After my own tests - with my own eyes, if I get no bleeding, I'll feel beter going back to the usual of posting everything, with the Claria.Hi Kelly. I love your posts but this time there is an option for the claria inks on darks.
That is great news. That is the usual feedback from Claria. I really look forward to trying it out myself. Thanks for the update and I am really glad it is working out for you, it's nice to have a few more options with this process.I have used the alpha gold for darks a couple of times and it stays true after numerous washes.
You've read the threads right? You know something is supposed to happen later this month to make a product better? You may not be stuck with that plastic feel for much longer, and Ivan tested this other paper with Claria and it worked awesome.I just hate the feel of plastic but it works.
Good luck to you, it's nice you have a cutter that can do the contour cutting.I am going to start using it (lacking anything better like ironall used to be)once I get a cutter for cutting out the designs. Its just too hard to do some things by hand cutting and a white background around the designs doesn't look good in my opinion.
Mk, what does the cold stretch do? I would think the polymer would be "set" when cold and then to stretch it then, it wouldn't be as pliable. How does that work out and why did you choose the cold stretch? That makes me nervous for some reason.Just got done with my first JPSS test shirt on my new Epson 1400 with factory Claria ink. It looks as good as my laser tests and the hand is amazing on the JPSS. I did the stretch, pre-press shirt, press paper, cold stretch, repress, restretch, technique.
I'll do that, np!....I plan to abuse it, but not actually go to the level of the bleach test.
It sounds like a couple of things may be making the bleeding more noticable on Davids shirts. One he is pressing as soon as he is printing, since he is doing it on site, which most papers reccomend you wait a while for the ink to dry. and #2 he is wearing them right away and the sweat and heat is making them bleed. This in my opinion is not allowing the ink too fully cure itself. Also when you do a wash in the washer you dont see the ink that is lost on that first wash, but because he is wearing the newly printed and pressed shirt right away, what you lose in the wash on that first wash, that you dont see, he is wearing on his body. Who knows maybe it is the heat of his body, the salt in his sweat, it could be a number of factors that are different then if you print it, press it and it sits for awhile, so the ink is much more dry then immediately putting it on. I think this is possible to happen with alot of different inks. If you were to print it and press it right away, and then wear it and sweat. Its hard to tell since this is not a normal test type situation.
I'm printing on Gildan 2000 white mostly, but this test shirt was Hanes Beefy T white. I can't remember which thread it was that I read about someone cold stretching before the repress. I figured i was worth a try that maybe it would crack anything that might crack and then the repress would fill in the cracks. You don't actually cold peel, you just stretch while cool and then repress without removing the paper. Seemed to work fine. Wish i could remember who to give credit too.Mk, what does the cold stretch do? I would think the polymer would be "set" when cold and then to stretch it then, it wouldn't be as pliable. How does that work out and why did you choose the cold stretch? That makes me nervous for some reason.
I'll do that, np!
Mk, what shirt are you printing on? Thanks.![]()
Can someone tell me when this product entered the market and who makes it ? --> JetPro Sofstretch
printed photos posted here would help too?
trying to catch up.
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Maybe, should I still put it on Mark first??Kelly,
since sweat is the majority water and salt, try printing and pressing one and put in a tub of water mixed with salt. I am wondering if the salt in the sweat is having an effect on the ink? Maybe it breaks it down if worn before washed.
Is it possible you are thinking of Queerrep/Rhonda's post where she cold peels, and then reheats to prevent the cracking? Just wondering bc it sounds a little like it, but different.I'm printing on Gildan 2000 white mostly, but this test shirt was Hanes Beefy T white. I can't remember which thread it was that I read about someone cold stretching before the repress. I figured i was worth a try that maybe it would crack anything that might crack and then the repress would fill in the cracks. You don't actually cold peel, you just stretch while cool and then repress without removing the paper. Seemed to work fine. Wish i could remember who to give credit too.
You take the paper off then stetch and then cover with a teflon sheet or craft paper ( to protect the pressplaten from getting gunked up) and then you re-pressHow does the stretching work after you press and before the prepress? I dont have a press so I don't understand really, but I would think that if you stretched the shirt and then pressed on it again, the image or whatever ink left on the paper would become unaligned. Is this not a problem? When you stretch after you print, do you take the transfer paper off first, stretch, and then repress?