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Discussion Starter #1
1) Is it worth it using JetPro Sofstretch for one color type/graphics on a tshirts or onesies?

2) I have no idea what type of ink I should use once buying a color printer for the transfer papers.

3) Is a plotter necessary?

Joanne
 

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1) Is it worth it using JetPro Sofstretch for one color type/graphics on a tshirts or onesies?
If you only own scissors and a heat press, it could be cheaper this way.

2) I have no idea what type of ink I should use once buying a color printer for the transfer papers.
Pigment ink will give you the most choices of paper to use. JPSS is the best paper on the market, imo, and has shown to work with dye ink, but it is only for lights. If you need a dark paper, you'll need pigment ink.

3) Is a plotter necessary?
That would allow you to use VINYL products, and if you are doing one color graphics, vinyl is a nice option for your product.

A cutter is also nice to have to use with heat transfer papers (would need an optical eye to contour cut transfer paper).
 

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If you only own scissors and a heat press, it could be cheaper this way.



Pigment ink will give you the most choices of paper to use. JPSS is the best paper on the market, imo, and has shown to work with dye ink, but it is only for lights. If you need a dark paper, you'll need pigment ink.



That would allow you to use VINYL products, and if you are doing one color graphics, vinyl is a nice option for your product.

A cutter is also nice to have to use with heat transfer papers (would need an optical eye to contour cut transfer paper).
Hi Kelly. I love your posts but this time there is an option for the claria inks on darks. I have used the alpha gold for darks a couple of times and it stays true after numerous washes.I just hate the feel of plastic but it works. I am going to start using it (lacking anything better like ironall used to be)once I get a cutter for cutting out the designs. Its just too hard to do some things by hand cutting and a white background around the designs doesn't look good in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Terry,

Is JPSS "the best paper" a jetpro paper?

My design will be printed on this paper that I
intend to peel off.
Is vinyl with a scissors for a different process all together?

Joanne
 

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Just got done with my first JPSS test shirt on my new Epson 1400 with factory Claria ink. It looks as good as my laser tests and the hand is amazing on the JPSS. I did the stretch, pre-press shirt, press paper, cold stretch, repress, restretch, technique. I took the shirt and ran it under hot water to check for bleed and found none. I left it in the water for about 15 minutes and still no bleed. Its in the washer running right now and I plan to abuse it, but not actually go to the level of the bleach test. Then I'll dry it on hot and we'll see what happens. I'm printing black and pink text with a Breast Cancer Ribbon graphic that has multiple pinks and gradiant fills. I just quickly cut out the graphic with scissors. Now If I can just figure out how to contour cut the rest of this order on my Laserpoint cutter.
 

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Hi Kelly. I love your posts but this time there is an option for the claria inks on darks.
I know, I started to write about the Claria - but I backed it out of the post. David is getting red ink bleeding and it can't be solved for him yet. At this time, Masterkoin and I are both opening up our own 1400's and printing with the Claria inks. You can see MK's post above mine. I am going to do a red image and see what happens. After my own tests - with my own eyes, if I get no bleeding, I'll feel beter going back to the usual of posting everything, with the Claria.

Being a newbie, I didn't want to overwhelm Joanne with the Claria ink issue. I've always felt comfortable with Claria from everything I've read, and the result pictures I've seen, but I've not pressed with it myself yet. David's issue of the last few days irks me, bc it's not common, but if it happens to one person - it can happen again. Anyone else who got bleeding with Claria was able to solve it by reducing the saturation when printing the transfer. It seemed to always go back to too much ink when printed and the excess ran.

Pigment ink has never bleed with JPSS, and I actually couldn't find a post on the forum reporting that it has bled (I searched "durabrite bleed" and came back with no issues) so I felt extremely comfortable recommending that Joanne.

I know you saw Ivan today. It was great to hear from him again. He is still loving his Claria compatables, and nearly everyone else is having success.

For my tests, if I do get bleeding like David/motoskingraphix does, I personally won't be able to recommend the Claria anymore. If I don't get bleeding, I'll be reassured and back on track with Claria. So I am on the fence until wash time.

You know me, Terry, I always tell all about the pigment, the Claria, and the JPSS/dye combo, that's why my posts are usually so long, lol, so you must have noticed it and thought it was weird I left it out. :D


I have used the alpha gold for darks a couple of times and it stays true after numerous washes.
That is great news. That is the usual feedback from Claria. I really look forward to trying it out myself. Thanks for the update and I am really glad it is working out for you, it's nice to have a few more options with this process.

I just hate the feel of plastic but it works.
You've read the threads right? You know something is supposed to happen later this month to make a product better? You may not be stuck with that plastic feel for much longer, and Ivan tested this other paper with Claria and it worked awesome.

I am going to start using it (lacking anything better like ironall used to be)once I get a cutter for cutting out the designs. Its just too hard to do some things by hand cutting and a white background around the designs doesn't look good in my opinion.
Good luck to you, it's nice you have a cutter that can do the contour cutting. :) Lucky!!!
 

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It sounds like a couple of things may be making the bleeding more noticable on Davids shirts. One he is pressing as soon as he is printing, since he is doing it on site, which most papers reccomend you wait a while for the ink to dry. and #2 he is wearing them right away and the sweat and heat is making them bleed. This in my opinion is not allowing the ink too fully cure itself. Also when you do a wash in the washer you dont see the ink that is lost on that first wash, but because he is wearing the newly printed and pressed shirt right away, what you lose in the wash on that first wash, that you dont see, he is wearing on his body. Who knows maybe it is the heat of his body, the salt in his sweat, it could be a number of factors that are different then if you print it, press it and it sits for awhile, so the ink is much more dry then immediately putting it on. I think this is possible to happen with alot of different inks. If you were to print it and press it right away, and then wear it and sweat. Its hard to tell since this is not a normal test type situation.
 
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Just got done with my first JPSS test shirt on my new Epson 1400 with factory Claria ink. It looks as good as my laser tests and the hand is amazing on the JPSS. I did the stretch, pre-press shirt, press paper, cold stretch, repress, restretch, technique.
Mk, what does the cold stretch do? I would think the polymer would be "set" when cold and then to stretch it then, it wouldn't be as pliable. How does that work out and why did you choose the cold stretch? That makes me nervous for some reason. :)


....I plan to abuse it, but not actually go to the level of the bleach test.
I'll do that, np! :)

Mk, what shirt are you printing on? Thanks. :)
 

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Can someone tell me when this product entered the market and who makes it ? --> JetPro Sofstretch

printed photos posted here would help too? :)


trying to catch up. :D



:
 

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It sounds like a couple of things may be making the bleeding more noticable on Davids shirts. One he is pressing as soon as he is printing, since he is doing it on site, which most papers reccomend you wait a while for the ink to dry. and #2 he is wearing them right away and the sweat and heat is making them bleed. This in my opinion is not allowing the ink too fully cure itself. Also when you do a wash in the washer you dont see the ink that is lost on that first wash, but because he is wearing the newly printed and pressed shirt right away, what you lose in the wash on that first wash, that you dont see, he is wearing on his body. Who knows maybe it is the heat of his body, the salt in his sweat, it could be a number of factors that are different then if you print it, press it and it sits for awhile, so the ink is much more dry then immediately putting it on. I think this is possible to happen with alot of different inks. If you were to print it and press it right away, and then wear it and sweat. Its hard to tell since this is not a normal test type situation.

Hey Sunny!!! Yes, I'm still here (can't believe it when I looked at the clock. Ha.)

Yes, I asked David if his sweat is toxic or something, just kidding around. I think it's unusual for this to happen, too. But David seems to have tried alot of stuff to make this stop, and nothing worked yet. AFter reading all that, in a diff post he mentioned he uses normal pressure for platisols, but "gorilla" pressure on the press for JPSS.

So now I have to test with gorilla pressure and normal press. I'll print and press right away, too, then put them on Mark to do yard work.

My suspicion is the press is hopelessly *crushing flat* the fiber and weave of the shirt - leaving no place for the polymer to truly adhere to.

He does not get bleeding with pigment, but does with dye.

If he crushes a shirt with pigment ink, it could still be okay because the pigment ink is encapsulated in the tiny pieces of resin, which is smushed flat as heck, but being plastic it can still hold the color. The polymer/plastic combo has adhered to the surface of the fabric, even if there was no weave for it to integrate into.

The dye may be failing because it is up to the polymer only to hold the ink, and being crushed, the fibers aren't fully accepting a good integration with the polymer coating, and the polymer is malfunctioning.

The directions don't call for extreme heavy pressure, it calls for medium/heavy pressure, so it could be something simple like that.

Anyway, its a hairbrain theory I have to try to eliminate the possibility that this makes sense somehow.

After I send Mark to do some yard work -- I'll let you know if he comes in all runny.. haha.

Aghhh, this it too long and it's too late. ahah, good night all!! :)

I think we maybe be able to figure it out, It'd be nice for David to enjoy the success others are having (and to stop freaking me out with reports of bleeding Claria inks!)
 

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Mk, what does the cold stretch do? I would think the polymer would be "set" when cold and then to stretch it then, it wouldn't be as pliable. How does that work out and why did you choose the cold stretch? That makes me nervous for some reason. :)

I'll do that, np! :)

Mk, what shirt are you printing on? Thanks. :)
I'm printing on Gildan 2000 white mostly, but this test shirt was Hanes Beefy T white. I can't remember which thread it was that I read about someone cold stretching before the repress. I figured i was worth a try that maybe it would crack anything that might crack and then the repress would fill in the cracks. You don't actually cold peel, you just stretch while cool and then repress without removing the paper. Seemed to work fine. Wish i could remember who to give credit too.
 

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Kelly,

since sweat is the majority water and salt, try printing and pressing one and put in a tub of water mixed with salt. I am wondering if the salt in the sweat is having an effect on the ink? Maybe it breaks it down if worn before washed.
 

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Can someone tell me when this product entered the market and who makes it ? --> JetPro Sofstretch

printed photos posted here would help too? :)


trying to catch up. :D



:

I ordered it the beginning of December, and that was near the beginning of it being on the market.

There are photos posted in alot of threads. Here's one that I did, but there are many more threads out there. Others have posted JPSS on colors, being used with dye sub ink, being used with Claria ink, and just pics of happy shirts done with jpss:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t47868.html

https://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t49205-3.html
 

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Kelly,

since sweat is the majority water and salt, try printing and pressing one and put in a tub of water mixed with salt. I am wondering if the salt in the sweat is having an effect on the ink? Maybe it breaks it down if worn before washed.
Maybe, should I still put it on Mark first?? :D
 

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I'm printing on Gildan 2000 white mostly, but this test shirt was Hanes Beefy T white. I can't remember which thread it was that I read about someone cold stretching before the repress. I figured i was worth a try that maybe it would crack anything that might crack and then the repress would fill in the cracks. You don't actually cold peel, you just stretch while cool and then repress without removing the paper. Seemed to work fine. Wish i could remember who to give credit too.
Is it possible you are thinking of Queerrep/Rhonda's post where she cold peels, and then reheats to prevent the cracking? Just wondering bc it sounds a little like it, but different. :confused:
 

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It was actually in some thread to do with the Epson 1400 and Claria inks since that is what I was reading about all day.

On another note, I was playing a bit and had an interesting problem occur. I had taken some scraps of the JPSS and was testing some logos with them to see which I liked. I was printing at the very bottom of the test shirt down by the hem. I made one of them with some red to test the bleed and the other was my normal black. Anyway, not sure which of many factors could be the problem but the results weren't so good and made me think that this kind of problem must be what others have seen.

The ink cracked very easily and after I looked at it closely it didn't have the JPSS around the print anymore (found most of it on my teflon later) and the ink was just on the very surface of the shirt. I gave it the same heat as before and even repressed it. The abuse of reusing the scraps could have been the problem, but I'm guessing it had to do with the hem being on the very edge of the press along with the logo being on the edge next to it. I don't think there was enough pressure to stick to the fibers properly.

Even after making a mess of that, the red still didn't bleed for me even with some salt mixed in.
 

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Thanks for trying the salt :) I think it was a good test to see if the salt in sweat was somehow weakening the inks. I have another thing you can try if you have an extra little sample, try putting in in warm salt water, actually quite warm like how a body would feel. Also did you try it right after you printed the transfer or did it sit for awhile. The reason I ask is that David was pressing the transfer right after printing, and then wearing right after that.
 

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How does the stretching work after you press and before the prepress? I dont have a press so I don't understand really, but I would think that if you stretched the shirt and then pressed on it again, the image or whatever ink left on the paper would become unaligned. Is this not a problem? When you stretch after you print, do you take the transfer paper off first, stretch, and then repress?
 

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How does the stretching work after you press and before the prepress? I dont have a press so I don't understand really, but I would think that if you stretched the shirt and then pressed on it again, the image or whatever ink left on the paper would become unaligned. Is this not a problem? When you stretch after you print, do you take the transfer paper off first, stretch, and then repress?
You take the paper off then stetch and then cover with a teflon sheet or craft paper ( to protect the pressplaten from getting gunked up) and then you re-press
..... JB
 
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