IRONALL Needs Help

2255 Views 11 Replies 4 Participants Last post by calhtech, Jun 13, 2015

calhtech

Discussion Starter · Mar 19, 2014

Hi all, after laboring through the threads trying to find an alternative to the Dark Paper I was using, I decided to purchase some Jetwear IYA (IronAll) something or other. Well I was excited to see it arrive today and anxious to give it a thorough testing. I popped open a googled image of a cherry red hot rod and ran it through my Epson Workforce-7010 with Durabrite Inks. Man was I sorely disappointed. So I tried again, same disappointment all in all I tested 4 half sheets each one I made adjustments to try to reduce the running inks. A REAL MESS. 4 Sheets each one had various areas that ran severely. Just to make sure something hadn't gone terribly wrong with my printer, I ran a sheet of cheap photo paper through it works perfectly. So I changed pics to something less colorful and ran another half sheet (11x17's cut in half) through the epson, not as bad as the first sheets but bad enough to throw in the trash. So I decided to grab myself a piece of Blue Grid. With the same settings as the "Iron All" (premium presentation paper matte) and it was perfect. So what is up with the iron all. Did I just totally blow $75.00 or what? A few details, so we can reduce a few of the obvious questions like "are your sure you printed the right side of the paper" - yes, the carrier sheet is obvious as it has 3 greyish circles printed randomly on it. Also, as stated above I have Durabrite inks and I adjusted the "Paper Type" to about every type available. I also changed the print quality numerous times hoping that would help. NO Not At All! Whats the possibility its not Iron ALL? That's a lot of money to through away. Thanks for any help!

CalhTech>

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calhtech

Discussion Starter · #2 · Mar 19, 2014

Never MIND, I contacted the vendor where I purchased the IORN-ALL and returned them all (but the wasted 4 sheets). That's the biggest waste of $75.00 I guess I have ever spent. I guess I will keep using blue grid and 3G opaque.

CalhTech>

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mgparrish

· #3 · Mar 26, 2014

calhtech said:
Hi all, after laboring through the threads trying to find an alternative to the Dark Paper I was using, I decided to purchase some Jetwear IYA (IronAll) something or other. Well I was excited to see it arrive today and anxious to give it a thorough testing. I popped open a googled image of a cherry red hot rod and ran it through my Epson Workforce-7010 with Durabrite Inks. Man was I sorely disappointed. So I tried again, same disappointment all in all I tested 4 half sheets each one I made adjustments to try to reduce the running inks. A REAL MESS. 4 Sheets each one had various areas that ran severely. Just to make sure something hadn't gone terribly wrong with my printer, I ran a sheet of cheap photo paper through it works perfectly. So I changed pics to something less colorful and ran another half sheet (11x17's cut in half) through the epson, not as bad as the first sheets but bad enough to throw in the trash. So I decided to grab myself a piece of Blue Grid. With the same settings as the "Iron All" (premium presentation paper matte) and it was perfect. So what is up with the iron all. Did I just totally blow $75.00 or what? A few details, so we can reduce a few of the obvious questions like "are your sure you printed the right side of the paper" - yes, the carrier sheet is obvious as it has 3 greyish circles printed randomly on it. Also, as stated above I have Durabrite inks and I adjusted the "Paper Type" to about every type available. I also changed the print quality numerous times hoping that would help. NO Not At All! Whats the possibility its not Iron ALL? That's a lot of money to through away. Thanks for any help!

CalhTech>

I have used that paper on a WF1100 (the 7010 was the WF1100 replacement) without any runs. Highly likely you had your paper settings wrong. Must use either plain paper setting or "Matte" in the Epson printer driver.

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calhtech

Discussion Starter · #4 · Mar 27, 2014 (Edited)

mgparrish said:
I have used that paper on a WF1100 (the 7010 was the WF1100 replacement) without any runs. Highly likely you had your paper settings wrong. Must use either plain paper setting or "Matte" in the Epson printer driver.

Hey Mike thanks for your response. I tried every setting I could get out of my Epson. I did not produce one usable print. I tried premium matte and even plain paper. IT was better but not worth pressing. Leaving the paper and ink settings the same, I ran a single sheet of bluegrid to make sure I hadn't screwed something up. Ist print was perfect. I called the vendor to make sure I actually had IA, and they said if it had the PAW print on the back that it was in fact IA. I was really disappointed. Especially after reading the good reviews from the forum. I believe I had some bad paper. I have been printing with epson printers for 24years. Only time I ever saw anything run like this was when I put Inkjet Film or transfer paper in upside down. But this is not the case, I saw the paw prints every time i printed. Now I am back to searching for another DARK paper replacement. I guess I'm going to look into an OKI Laser and try some of those papers. I have a job that I was hoping this would work out for. Only about 13 shirts, not enough to screen print and its 6 colors. Oh well the search continues. I certain appreciate all you helpful posts on these transfer topics. Take care.

CalhTech>

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MsCeoMinded

· #5 · Jun 13, 2015

Thank You, I've been searching for months on a new paper and 3g jet Opaque works great!!!! I was about to invest into "Iron-All" but I've been having great results with 3G, I don't have money to waste.

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mgparrish

· #6 · Jun 13, 2015

MsCeoMinded said:
Thank You, I've been searching for months on a new paper and 3g jet Opaque works great!!!! I was about to invest into "Iron-All" but I've been having great results with 3G, I don't have money to waste.

3g Opaque will image great and look nice initially.

But 2 inescapable facts.

1. If you machine wash and dry it will eventually crack. Not a question of if, but when.

2. The first time your customer puts in in a hot dryer it will shrivel up like fried bacon, then it is FUBAR, GORY, and throw it away time.

Iron all for darks WILL NOT CRACK EVER nor shrivel up. Fact

When you wash test the min should be 25 wash/dry cycles in a real washing machine and dryer.

If you are OK with telling your customers that they should NEVER machine wash and dry (hand wash and hang dry) then 3G Opaque is the paper for you.

Otherwise the tshirt will crack before 25 washes. Typically 10 -15.

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calhtech

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jun 13, 2015

mgparrish said:
3g Opaque will image great and look nice initially.

But 2 inescapable facts.

1. If you machine wash and dry it will eventually crack. Not a question of if, but when.

2. The first time your customer puts in in a hot dryer it will shrivel up like fried bacon, then it is FUBAR, GORY, and throw it away time.

Iron all for darks WILL NOT CRACK EVER nor shrivel up. Fact

When you wash test the min should be 25 wash/dry cycles in a real washing machine and dryer.

If you are OK with telling your customers that they should NEVER machine wash and dry (hand wash and hang dry) then 3G Opaque is the paper for you. Otherwise the tshirt will crack before 25 washes. Typically 10 -15.

I sure wish i'd had better luck with the iron all Mike. I print a lot of transfers - Red Grid, Blue Grid, JPSS, 3G Opaque, but I never got a single good print out of the batch Iron All i got. I wasted about 4 sheets before I came to the conclusion it was not going to work. Since I watch these forums and most of what I have bought were recommendations from forum members like yourself. I may try it again one day, cause I still turn down multicolor jobs on darks if I can do it with vinyl.

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MsCeoMinded

· #8 · Jun 13, 2015

I appreciate your input and education on the papers but I have washed 3G papers and dried and tested different cycles, and haven't had any issues, now I would love to try Iron-All and test out that paper as well but I am not wasting money on a paper that might not work.

, Plus there are so many names for Iron-All , I don't know where to even buy any from a trusted supplier.

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mgparrish

· #9 · Jun 13, 2015

MsCeoMinded said:
I appreciate your input and education on the papers but I have washed 3G papers and dried and tested different cycles, and haven't had any issues, now I would love to try Iron-All and test out that paper as well but I am not wasting money on a paper that might not work. , Plus there are so many names for Iron-All , I don't know where to even buy any from a trusted supplier.

Wash testing means you need to test 25 wash and dry cycles.

I have extensively tested both 3G and Iron All for darks.

100% 3G will eventually crack machine washing and dry, Iron all will not.

Iron all for darks is made by IYA and comes under various trade names. The Iron all for darks is a private label brand name, the paper can be called other things from other supplies.

The OEM link is

IYATECH TECHNOLOGIES

Their marketing can provide the various retailers that have that paper and then the various brand names.

Suppliers that I am aware of

Jetwear Ironall Dark — tshirtsupplies (Tshirts forum preferred vendor)

UniTranz Premium InkJet Transfer Paper for dark Fabrics 11x17 [IJTD1 1117] - $3.99 : Sunie.com, Leading Provider of Signs Equipment.

Iron All Dark Inkjet Heat Transfer Paper – Transfer Paper Shack

But Iron all works best with dye inks contrary to other transfer papers where pigments inks are preferred. So you must wash COLD, no ifs and or buts.

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mgparrish

· #10 · Jun 13, 2015

calhtech said:
I sure wish i'd had better luck with the iron all Mike. I print a lot of transfers - Red Grid, Blue Grid, JPSS, 3G Opaque, but I never got a single good print out of the batch Iron All i got. I wasted about 4 sheets before I came to the conclusion it was not going to work. Since I watch these forums and most of what I have bought were recommendations from forum members like yourself. I may try it again one day, cause I still turn down multicolor jobs on darks if I can do it with vinyl.

Iron all for darks will not run with pigments if you set correctly in your graphics settings, but it will have some adhesion issues like a pitting or sand blasting look especially in the darker colors.

I'm using a Brother printer with dye inks in CMY for Iron all for Darks and no pitting issues. But you must use cold wash with dye inks and that paper. All other transfer like JPSS then I use pigment inks.

The imaging is not as good as other papers but I compensate by boosting gamma in my graphic apps.

Of course a dark shirt should be always washed in cold water due to the t-shirt base natural dark color fading if using warm or hot water, so your customers shouldn't mind.

The t-shirt also must be washed inside out.

I have t-shirts now with over 30 washes using Iron all for Darks, looking as good a the day I pressed them.

Hope that helps.

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Skinbus

· #11 · Jun 13, 2015

I've used ironall for years & never had any problems with it. Perfect every time. Possibly a bad batch or wasn't properly stored.

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calhtech

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jun 13, 2015

Skinbus said:
I've used ironall for years & never had any problems with it. Perfect every time. Possibly a bad batch or wasn't properly stored.

I didn't play with it much, after 4 sheets I figured If it was gonna be this hard to use it was way to expensive to shelf. So I sent is all back. I have never done that before, but I new something was not right. As long as I have been using inkjets and transfer paper, it almost looked like i had used the reverse side, you know the side that inks won't usually stick to! But the paper had labels on the back. Guess I should have tried the other side just to see if they mis labeled it.

CalhTech>

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