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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm curious what distance in points do others use to choke a white underbase? I have played around with different numbers. Working in Illustrator and Corel, I have used as a little as 1 point which translates to .5 on either side of center.

I'm trying to keep the edge as clean/crisp as possible when the top color is applied.

Thanks!
 

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We used to be able to just put a piece of clear plastic between the transparency and the screen but I would think that 1 to 2 is max... I have not screen printed in some years but this is what I remember.. I have also been successful in the past with not underbasing in white but a color closer to the shirt color or the design color... Just my $.02
dlac
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I remember a reprographics company that used to do that choke in their darkroom, been awhile. I like the suggestion of the ink close to shirt color.

What happens if you print flash print the color you want to end up with? Wouldn't be any registration issues.
 

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I'm curious what distance in points do others use to choke a white underbase? I have played around with different numbers. Working in Illustrator and Corel, I have used as a little as 1 point which translates to .5 on either side of center.

I'm trying to keep the edge as clean/crisp as possible when the top color is applied.

Thanks!
We tend to do .5pt for underbases.
 

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The places i've worked for usually did 2 to 3 point choke white or 1 to 2 point stroke on the top color. Flash curing should not change the registeration at all. Since the shirt is stuck to the platen with spraytack. Never been a problem on either hand printed presses or automatics.
As for the choke/spreads it also depends on the design, colors and shirt colors. And the talent of your printer.
Fry
 
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