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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
K,...so I'm feeling better about the abrupt change to Image Armor pretreatment, as it does seem to be more forgiving (application wise) and is easier on my spray gun (sticky wise...waaay easier to clean) and doesn't coat everything within a 5 ft radius with sticky goo. Anyhoo,...I'm still a little confused as to what is considered a light shirt, vs dark shirt. The reason I ask is because there are still "light shirts" (think sky blue, lime green, light pink, etc) that require a white underbase in order to really pop and isolate the design colors from the color of the shirt. So,....I've been using IA dark on pretty much anything that requires an underbase, problem is, the potential for staining (yellowish stain) increases as the shade of the shirt becomes lighter in color.

Could some of you hone in with some practical advice, as to how you're doing it and how you're avoiding stains, etc. I've been hearing in here that the IA light pretreat is fantastic, etc, etc, but I'm still not understanding whether it's intended for a white underbase and if it will flash the underbase sufficiently.

I've recently begun hitting my shirts with just a fine mist of distilled water just prior to applying the pretreatment as a means of getting rid of the "box" of pretreatment that very often shows up on the shirt, and it seemed to work. That advice also came from within the Tshirt forum.

Little help please, to the Neoflex family or anyone else who has USEFUL pointers. Thanks in advance !
 

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How much pretreat on lights that are getting a white underbase of IA light? Same amount used on light garments that are CMYK only? I am usually doing 1 press of 2.5 turns on the viper one with IA light on CMYK. Tried one on a heather gray the other day with the same amount (2.5) and a white underbase and the underbase was kind of faded. Is this what I should expect because it is IA light or was I using too little pretreat. Keep in mind, 2.5 turns is not exactly a small amount of PT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had the same thing happen when I opted to use light IA. Sprayed on what I THOUGHT would be a nominal amount (same application technique as the dark, so I assume the same amount) and the underbase looked washed out and thin,...resulting in crappy color rendition when the color pass happened. Grrrrrrrrrr. I've just been using the dark on everything.
 

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Rob, my problem with dark on everything is that on a light pink and a heather gray last week, I used dark and there was a ring around the print... like a wet area as if the ink leaked a water spot around the print. Here it is, Look at this photo around the Zebra to see what I mean...
 

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Does that Zebra shirt have polyester in it? If so, the DARK formula may have a tendency to do that.... actually I believe it is the CYAN ink that wants to run - something in the ink when using DARK on a poly/blend.The LIGHT formula won't do that on light colored shirts.

A good rule of thumb for IA LIGHT or DARK selection:

White to mid-LIGHTS - Use IA LIGHT
Mid Dark to BLACK - Use IA DARK
 
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