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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone, Just wanted to toss out my opinion on the new replacement inks for the GT3 series printers, so far AWESOME!
Have been using GT3 machines for now starting the 4th year and have had my issues with heads, etc but basically great machines,as far as self-service, etc. Upgraded one GT381 with now over 100 prints out the door after initial wash testing. Results are As good or better colors than OEM, in fact the yellows and oranges are slightly brighter as previously noted here. The magenta is deeper than the OEM so you may need to adjust some old files for an exact match. Whites are awesome and seem to separate slower than OEM in the tubes, but still need to flush for best white after a few days. Setting to achieve same or better results are lower which equates to less cost per print. Ink bags are heavier plastic than oem which makes the feel of shaking cartridges way different, but still needed. Will add to thread if anything changes good or bad....thanks for the info over the years, lurker, not a poster, LOL! NOW if someone would just make a replacement reasonably priced printhead..........
 

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I've been looking at this ink.

Do you have any pictures of the inks on garments? I'd really like to see the yellow. The only way I can get yellow to not look like crap on a dark shirt is to spend a ton on a white under base.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've been looking at this ink.

Do you have any pictures of the inks on garments? I'd really like to see the yellow. The only way I can get yellow to not look like crap on a dark shirt is to spend a ton on a white under base.
I have a job later this week that is a full color PD badge that has yellows in the design, I'll post some pix after I run it....
 

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Since my 2nd White head is dying I figured I'd give these inks a shot. The site I used had free shipping so my total for 4 was $396. It took awhile to convert my ink cartridges over. I ended up using a baseboard saw (thin) to cut the tabs. It was a lot faster. So far, I am amazed. I have a big chunk of my #3 head going out, but it still looks great. I haven't wash tested them, but I will.

Here is a giant picture so you others can see it. There is a bit of overspray.
 

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That was a Canvas Men's 100% cotton shirt. As we all know red is horrible to get white to look good on with these machines. My settings were 7/3 so there isn't extra ink here.

I am a bit worried about the maintenance though. The PDF says I need to clean the head and put cleaner in the caps for a "wet" resting state. Leads me to believe it gels quickly, but then again they might just be being extra careful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That was a Canvas Men's 100% cotton shirt. As we all know red is horrible to get white to look good on with these machines. My settings were 7/3 so there isn't extra ink here.

I am a bit worried about the maintenance though. The PDF says I need to clean the head and put cleaner in the caps for a "wet" resting state. Leads me to believe it gels quickly, but then again they might just be being extra careful.
I have been using a few weeks now and can point out a few things I have changed. First use a dremel tool with cutting wheel to cut the cart. locks off - very fast. I used to be able to salvage a misprint if you took it directly to wash sink and used simple green and soft brush, not so any more this white is WHITE and it also adheres very well even before curing.
I have been cleaning out capping station after white ink printing and using the solution although it gets pulled down when the pump runs when heads park. At 1/2 price ink having to spend a few minutes & dollars on solution and swabs is a bargain. I do know that since I've been doing this the white comes back to full print capability with less head cleanings after sitting a few days. Print quality is better at less ink volume all the way around. If you have a repeat file you will want to retest before starting up new job after switching, too much ink pools and I have been able to reduce cost per print by $1-2 on some larger prints we did a lot of. Will post some pix of comparison tees as soon as we get caught up, LOL! Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How is the switch made? Do you need to flush all the OEM white and cmyk inks then replace with image armor B? Can you use OEM white with image armor B CMYK? Thanks.
No Mixing allowed, must be complete changeout, not compatible with OEM inks. I cahnged one of my 2 machines and used up the balance of OEM in second machine to get this tested. Few tips - make a flush cart. out of one of the color filters with some tubing and use that to flush tubing and heads much faster and easier to do. Also made one for white, again faster that trying to use maint cart. to flush out old inks.
 

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The site states you need a complete changeover, but I printed one as a test. The only bad thing I had was I needed to reduce the white being put down since it was so much thicker? I had some colors blow out and pool. The 2nd print looked great honestly.

I didn't get a chance to wash it to see if it exploded in the wash though. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The site states you need a complete changeover, but I printed one as a test. The only bad thing I had was I needed to reduce the white being put down since it was so much thicker? I had some colors blow out and pool. The 2nd print looked great honestly.

I didn't get a chance to wash it to see if it exploded in the wash though. :)
Other than using up supplies on hand I don't see why you would not want to do the complete changeout. The CMYK bags are less than half of OEM and white is less as well. You most likely will have to reduce white levels on anything compared to what you used before to stop the pooling and may be worse with the mixing of brands. We have two printers and I just changed the first one, used up OEM on the second before changing it. My wash tests have been great so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You hit it on the head. I just want to use up all my brother cmyk ink. I will never be able to find a perfect time to switch cmyk since they go along way. Where did you buy your b-series ink? Do they have free shipping? Thanks
Our closest distributor is garmentprinterink in NY excellent customer service and free shipping over $100 tell Leah I said Hi!
 

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I would like to add something that isn't mentioned. You save on ink, but you also lose the wiper cleaners that you normally get with the Brother white inks and cymk. Those are about $16 ea. if you buy them separately.


I agree with everyone, so far they still look great. My heads aren't getting worse. To me, the ink feels less like rubber but still holds up great.
 

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I bought CM&K for my GT-782 expecting to make the swap (still had a new yellow), but was overall not thrilled for my use. I don't pre-treat my whites and lights, and found that black was not as dark as brother ink without the pre-treat. Also, a word to the wise, I didn't flush my lines well enough when I installed the black, and destroyed a print head. Although I didn't have the same issue with the CYAN I would urge anyone swapping to or from Brother/b-series to do a full flush/clean of the tubes before using the new ink.

I also had issues with the high temps in my shop, and the ink not holding up as well in the low 90 degrees compared to the brother ink.

Ive still got a brand new magenta sitting on my bench I won't be using
 
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