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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm so new, so confused and need help.
I'm just a hobbyist that wants to learn how to add photos for gifts on t-shirt, mouse pads, wall hanging, totes and quilts.
I have bought some blank mouse pads, some ironall light and dark. I have an HP Photosmart 7450 and just a household iron.
I'm getting an Epson CX9400 for Christmas and am considering a heat press but I don't know that I want to invest that much.
On to my question. I tried to do a mouse pad. I printed in mirror and had my iron heating up for over five minutes. I did as the ironall instructions suggested which is to iron in small circles for 2 to 3 minutes. I did 3. The ink didn't come off the paper much.
I used Hanes T-Shirt Maker Lite if that matters.
Now just so I didn't do something totally goofy I am wondering if that green/blue backing was suppose to be peeled off at some point. The paper consists of one piece right?
Here is the link to a photo of it:
Photo Sharing by MyPhotoAlbum.com :: Susie's Photos :: Photo Transfer
I think you will hear from me often.
Thanks for any help you can offer. I have been searching messages but can't to find what I did wrong.
Susie in northern NY
 

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On to my question. I tried to do a mouse pad. I printed in mirror and had my iron heating up for over five minutes. I did as the ironall instructions suggested which is to iron in small circles for 2 to 3 minutes. I did 3. The ink didn't come off the paper much.

Susie in northern NY
Susie, I bet the problem is you're not pressing hard enough with the iron. You should really get a heat press. If you can't afford a new one, keep an eye out for a used one. They aren't that expensive and it will make your life soooo much easier. I promise you will thank me. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Rhonda,
Thanks for your help.
I just have to convince myself that $300 or more for a heat press for a hobby is ok. :) I've already spent tons of my sewing and embroidery.
Susie
 

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Hi Susie... :),

Is that what the image looked like when it was freshly printed? If yes, that print doesn't look right to begin with.

Also, what mouse pad did you use? That may may make a difference in the outcome, depending on what the top fabric is made of. If it is a polyester topped moused pad for dye sub, it won't work well with inkjet heat transfer paper.

Just out of curiousity, what ink carts does your HP printer take? If you look in this link, you can find out if it is dye based or pigment based. That won't really make a difference up front. Dye based ink with heat transfer paper usually print and transfer beautifully, they just don't last when washed, and mouse pads are not your high wash items. Although, if they are wiped down and washed at any point, it may be affected. Pigment inks can stand up to being washed. Folks have posted pics of washed mouse pads on the forum before.

Here's the HP ink link, just to find out what you are working with:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/printers-inks-inkjet-laser-transfers/t64394.html#post381820

Yes, Ironall is a one step paper. You print the image "mirrored" like you did, then iron the image on. When the time is done, you peel the backer paper off and the image should be on the mouse pad, just like it looks in your photo, except for the missing areas.

Here's another thread that had issues with the image sticking. I wonder if it can help you out:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t3097.html#post16675
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Kelly,
That is what the image looked like AFTER I had pressed.
The mouse pads were described this way:
Commercial quality mouse pads, 9.25 x 7.75 in. and 1/4 in. thick, white fabric top, black natural rubber backing. The fabric top is made of white polyester material, excellent for transfer printing, allowing maximum detail, rich color, and smooth look.
Would you suggest something else?
I did do a couple of mouse pads last week with June Tailors Quick Fuse Fabric Sheets and they turned out nice. Same ink and same mouse pad.
Here they are:
Photo Sharing by MyPhotoAlbum.com :: Susie's Photos :: Photo Transfer
My HP take 56/57 or 58. I have the 56/57 in right now and the site said the following:
Pigment-based (black), dye-based (tri-color)
Thanks for your help and the links. :)
Susie
 

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I'm going to say that's the problem with the Ironall and the polyester topped mousepad.

Ironall adheres to cotton fabric, and doesn't adhere to polyester. There are mouse pads made for inkjet heat transfer paper, and mouse pads made for dye sub paper.

Dye sub (dye sublimation) 'dyes' the polyester, leaving no trace of the paper, only leaving the dye behind.

Inkjet heat transfer transfers the ink and polymer coating. This process definitely needs the cotton.

Can't say what the June Taylor paper is made for or of, I don't know that paper.

If you want to use the Ironall, try to find a different mouse pad that is not polyester topped. Best wishes. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You are most likely right. I didn't know that IronAll was just for cotton fabric. Well, now I know!
The product I'm using by June Tailor is a 'fabric sheet' that goes through your printer and then you iron it on. The sheet adheres to the top of the item.
Description
Personalize virtually any surface including clothing, mousepads, scrapbooks, corkboards and more!
• 100% cotton fabric with iron-on, fusible backing.
• Select your favorite pictures, add text or graphics and print directly from your computer onto the iron-on sheet using your color ink jet printer.
• Iron on to any heat tolerant surface.
• Hand washable.
It is expensive though. I haven't used it all that much but it is about $2 a sheet.
I will kept in mind that I need a "cotton mouse" :)
Thanks for everything,
Susie
 

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Oh, I see, the June Taylor paper is cotton.

LOL, you could probably iron the Ironall onto the June Taylor paper onto the mousepad! Just kidding around, that'd be one expensive mousepad when you are done. :)

Ironall can go onto a blend of up to 50% cotton and 50% polyester, in case you ever want to do a tee shirt with it, you can, tho it has some fade problems on garments, which is why I use the JPSS paper.

Good luck, thanks for the update on the JT paper. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Kelly,
HA HA, you're very funny. :)
So if I found a cotton mouse pad then the Ironall would work?
Yes, I did read more about the Ironall and I see it says 50/50.
Ok what is JPSS? I really need to get a notebook and start taking notes.
I have a T-Shirt question too. When you transfer to you place something between the shirt layers?
Are you planning to write a book "I'm a newbie to all things TRANSFER"?
Thanks,
Susie
 

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Okay, JPSS is JetproSofstretch and the best paper for light/white garments, etc on the market, imo. I have Ironall light, but won't use it on tees anymore as it has fade issues. I did find one tee that did not fade with Ironall light and my Durabrite ink, but I want to be able to use more than one brand/style of tee, and with JPSS, I can use any tee, and still get soft, stretchy, colorfast results.

I started a new thread for mousepads. I've always wanted to do them as well, and do have a lot of stock of Ironall that I could also use up that way. Here's a link. I had a hard time finding good info on cloth mousepad suppliers, so hopefully the good people will chime in on the great sources to go to. :)
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t67162.html

When I transfer for a shirt, I don't not put anything inside the shirt, I'm assuming you are worried about the ink blowing thru the layers. I have never had that happen, but I do not use the highest photo setting when printing my images. You don't need too much ink when doing transfers. The ink sits on top of the paper, it doesn't absorb in, so the extra ink can cause problems like bleeding and running sometimes. To avoid it, I just use normal or text/photo settings on the printer, and I've never had a problem.

I've written posts on how to hand iron successfully, and how I heat transfer step-by-step, including the reasons why I do what I do. Here is a link:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper/t39007.html#post229668

PS: Jetprosofstretch has been approved for hand ironing. :)
No books, lol, the forum is one giant book! :)
 

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You need pressure when you heat press. PRESS HARD! Heat presses compress the pressure for you. I got a good home made heat press on ebay for $100.00 when I needed a little extra one for traveling. That will be fine for you to get started. Type in heat press on ebay, and he made it out of an electric skillet and MDF board. works great.
 

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I'm going to say that's the problem with the Ironall and the polyester topped mousepad.

Ironall adheres to cotton fabric, and doesn't adhere to polyester. There are mouse pads made for inkjet heat transfer paper, and mouse pads made for dye sub paper.

Dye sub (dye sublimation) 'dyes' the polyester, leaving no trace of the paper, only leaving the dye behind.

Inkjet heat transfer transfers the ink and polymer coating. This process definitely needs the cotton.

Can't say what the June Taylor paper is made for or of, I don't know that paper.

If you want to use the Ironall, try to find a different mouse pad that is not polyester topped. Best wishes. :)

Dear Kelly,

I lovingly :eek:, but strongly disagree that mousepads are manufactured for dyesub vs. inkjet transfer. In my previous 15 years of decorating where I made hundreds of thousands of mousepads, I have never experienced a problem decorating polyester top mousepads with transfers. Furthermore, here at Bestblanks we have countless customers that decorate polytop mousepads using inkjet transfers both with a home iron and more with a heatpress.

Most inkjet papers work great with polytop mousepads. It will be much easier to replace Susie's paper for one more appropriate to hand ironing, than it will be to find a cotton top mousepad.

For my closing argument:p....Here is a link to a video of me making a polytop mousepad with TransferJet Inket Transfer Paper and a Panther Heat Press.
[MEDIA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLM1rDAliIw[/MEDIA]
 

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Dear Kelly,

I lovingly :eek:, but strongly disagree that mousepads are manufactured for dyesub vs. inkjet transfer. In my previous 15 years of decorating where I made hundreds of thousands of mousepads, I have never experienced a problem decorating polyester top mousepads with transfers. Furthermore, here at Bestblanks we have countless customers that decorate polytop mousepads using inkjet transfers both with a home iron and more with a heatpress.

Most inkjet papers work great with polytop mousepads. It will be much easier to replace Susie's paper for one more appropriate to hand ironing, than it will be to find a cotton top mousepad.

For my closing argument:p....Here is a link to a video of me making a polytop mousepad with TransferJet Inket Transfer Paper and a Panther Heat Press.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLM1rDAliIw[/media]


Thanks alot, Mike. That is good to know. I appreciate any and all info that comes my way, so thank you. That is also why I like all the posting to be in the threads instead of in pm. I learn as much as everyone else when others get the chance to chime in.

I have seen some folks say you have to use certain mousepads for certain processes. But I bet that applies more to needing the *polyester top for dye sub* than it does for needing non-polyester for inkjet heat transfer. But I am not sure. In the other thread that I linked in here, asking for INKJET mousepads suppliers, there are only a few responses and they are mixed, like using the poly for laser process as well.

Proworlded said Clearsoft (which is Ironall) works on both poly and cotton topped mousepads.

For me, if I had to choose, I'd not choose a poly topped mousepad - if I was given a choice - to use with inkjet heat transfer papers. Mainly bc I wouldn't use Ironall and inkjet inks on a polyester shirt and expect it to last.

I know Ironall does in fact hand iron well. I did plenty of hand ironing with Ironall. Though - why Ironall or any other inkjet *would* work on poly does not make sense to me. Inkjet needs the cotton or non-manmade fibers to adhere to.

Is this one of those situations that works well when pressed, but if it had to go to the washer and dryer like a garment it would not last?

I mean, Canon dye ink looks beautiful on Ironall when printed and transferred, but quickly, because of the washer and dryer, will lose that beauty.

If not washed, will continue to look great. Is that what's going on here? Because otherwise, it doesn't really make sense why a cotton/cotton blend process works on polyester fiber, to me.

Susie, Mike may have a point but more about the ironing, but before you try switching the paper, let's look at *how* you did your ironing.

When we hand ironed, we set our iron to the highest temp, let it preheat for 10 minutes, and the pressure we applied was as much as a human hand could stand.

We stood on a stool at the formica counter top, and leaned all of our weight down on the item. Literally, the handle of the iron sagged under the pressure when my husband did this. I just left the items for him to do after work bc he could apply so much more pressure than I could. He has 60 pounds on me and some big guns. My shirts didn't fail, but I could not get the polymer into the weave the way he could.

You can't hand iron on an ironing board or any other surface that absorbs heat.

It is best to do this on a formica counter top, I've seen wood suggested as well, like cutting boards

Once our press arrived, of course it was simplier and much faster, and I could process the orders. I have to say, in honor of my husband, I could not tell the difference between the press-done shirts and the Husband-done shirts. Performance-wise, they perform the same as well.

Maybe if you try again, with alot of pressure and full heat temp after a good pre-heat, you may get better results.

Maybe not, sometimes, products are just not a good match with each other, and changing one of the other helps.

Where did you purchase your mousepads?
 

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Kelly It has to be an application problem. I would think that the 'sponginess'....just invented that word...is not providing a solid base. At best, using a home iron is a difficult method of applying transfers. Between having to press for 2-3 minutes and apply enough pressure to be effective is a tough chore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Kelly,
Ok, I did some of my own research early this am (I don't sleep much) and found out some about JPSS. Thanks for the extra info.
So you say you don't use Ironall on only but one T and which one would that be? What should I use the Ironall for?
I'll check out the new threads in a bit. :) Thanks!
Ok so you don't put anything in between and you just use your Epson with Durabrite on a normal setting. Gotcha.
The Ironall comes with Hand Ironing directions too so I thought it would work.
Susie
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
LYmberwear,
Thanks for your help.
I'm thinking it may have been my hand ironing. I'm reading through the posts and see where a few have said that could be it.
I'm just a little thing. :)
Thanks for your help. I have my eye on a few heat presses.
Susie
 

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LYmberwear,
Thanks for your help.
I'm thinking it may have been my hand ironing. I'm reading through the posts and see where a few have said that could be it.
I'm just a little thing. :)
Thanks for your help. I have my eye on a few heat presses.
Susie
Sometimes your iron just doesn't get hot enough. You also might want to borrow a friend's iron and try it again. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
...........It will be much easier to replace Susie's paper for one more appropriate to hand ironing, than it will be to find a cotton top mousepad..............For my closing argument:p....Here is a link to a video of me making a polytop mousepad with TransferJet Inket Transfer Paper and a Panther Heat Press.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLM1rDAliIw[/media]
Mike,
Thanks for the video. That mousepad looked great. Right now I'm still confused on weather it's the paper or ME the iron-er. I've been to your website a few times and will look around more later.
:)
Thanks,
Susie
 
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