[BigHE]

So I am doing a basic four color WB print.

I lay white underbase, 2 push passes, flash for 10 sec.
Then 1 more, flash,

lay red, two pushes, flash.

lay blues two pushes, flash

lay black, two pushes cure for 2-3 minutes til its only barely tacky.

After about the 2nd shirt the frames start to take a little more effort to raise of the shirt. By the third it is taking ink with it.

I really don't want that much ink on the shirt, but I fear that I made the wrong decision if I wanted the image opaque. I am using Green Galaxy Comet White, Mars Red, Neptune Blue and Pitch Black.

Am I pressing to hard. I am bearing down on it pretty good, but I thought you had to?

Using a 16x16 Ryonet Flash Dryer and this is what I'm getting...

 

[BigHE]

Images seem not to be showing. https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPThqolwxllXQS_6fqFoT-gGt3C7LBiUR52Ib16

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO0TMk5mauPCmD1a1RU-Wg62NFWY9rnLhDo0rOx

 

[fiveten]

Let the shirt cool down a bit before you hit it with the next color.

 

[lostmase]

yes a cooling station is absolutley necessary. Also check youtube for some tutorials.

 

[Bonelight]

Agree with the above; get a pedestal fan and aim it at your platen after you have flashed it, your platens are getting too hot and your ink is sticking to the underside of the next screen that goes on top.

 

[MrNifty]

Sounds like your "off-contract" could be too low. Also, try printing wet on wet instead of flashing so much. Even if you have colors touching, they shouldn't bleed unless you are pressing super hard or have a flat angle on the squeegee. I print wet on wet most times than not. It may take a few test prints to get the bottoms to have enough ink on them from the previous colors to not pick up. Always do that, until you absolutely know that you have to flash a color, to keep the build-up down. You eventually will need to wipe the bottoms, but not until a few dozen prints or so.

 

[shawnkspringhill]

I just got my butt kicked over and over trying to do a 1st print job 5 color with White underbase. Using White as register screen by the time i got registered my White was dried out, i could get it back usable then Black dried out. Green Galaxy inks. They are all different, My Red Yellow are thin and one print are good the next too much ink laydown. I did learn some from it. Like Aquasol HV emulsion i was getting much more halftone meaning the smallest of dots then i was using Saati PHU emulsion. I was going all the way down to 5 secs to get fine detail with Saati but would lost some bigger dots on washout, the Aquasol solved that at 12 secs no washout out and very fine dots were printing. Real bummer ive ordered $800 worth of shirts sitting here and had to pass on $2400 order. Was trying to get in a nice bar restaurant where i knew would draw more orders.

 

[MrNifty]

Using what white? Also what color and brand shirt? Maybe do a discharge under base? If you take a long time registering, the Comet white will start to dry, but just mist it with water and print it on paper. I hit that Comet white like three times to make sure it gets into the fabric. The other thing is, make sure you let the garment cool off before printing over it! Or it will dry super faster than it should. Hit white, flash then print wet on wet!

 

[TABOB]

Don't fill the screen with ink until you are ready to print.
Do the registration using a bit of ink over the registration marks only.
You can thicken water-based inks by using a thickening agent. if green galaxy does not have one, you can use one from a different brand. They are all compatible.

 

[shawnkspringhill]

I was using all GG ink so yes Comet. But i had no better luck with Matsui stretch White either. It dried faster.
It just seemed a real headache to keep 6 colors all wet but not too wet. And theres the White then waiting for flash while ink is drying. Its a real bad time here for water base being 95 and dry. I wont try that again till we have AC in garage.

 

[shawnkspringhill]

How do you tape off the marks once ink is on them? I had that problem also. Tape would hold for 2 0r 3 prints then lift. Blockout would take 25 minutes to dry by then so are the screens. It kicked my butt so bad i was done, then it occured why not try plastisol. So screen cleaning is much harder but atleast can print and get paid.

 

[TABOB]

How do you tape off the marks once ink is on them? I had that problem also. Tape would hold for 2 0r 3 prints then lift. Blockout would take 25 minutes to dry by then so are the screens. It kicked my butt so bad i was done, then it occured why not try plastisol. So screen cleaning is much harder but atleast can print and get paid.

This is why I suggested not to fill the screen with ink, and use just a little bit over the registration marks. Then you can use blockout without having to worry about the ink drying.


Plastisol is much easier if you don't have controlled environment, but water-based inks have other positives. I use both.