Danny absolutely. When I set up a wet on wet job. I print the job all colors then flash and print again then change test and do 1 more time. This will make sure that the first few shirts won't come out lite on a few colors. I also use the same size squeegee on all screens. Something you may not be use to. This is a great job to give it a try.
well I have 350 of these to do, its going to be allot of work on my manual, and I've never done anything even close to this ammount of shirts so I dont know how well the registration will hold on my press (older antec tracer 4x4) even though flashing may take a little longer I'm still thinking of sticking with what I know on this one and when I'm done then do a little playing arround ?
Giving your press a "going over" before you start might be a good idea. Make sure all the platens are in the same level plane and snugly tightened. Make sure there is no play when the printheads are down. Screens are square and all are parallel with the platens. Equal off contact on all screens. Tight mesh, sharp squeegee. If you do flash it doesn't have to take any/much longer than if you don't.
looks like they made an error in the design with the large circles/halftones in the background.
Either way wet on wet should be easy since nothing should be touching (thus the error i was explaining)
IT looks like the stroke around the people was subtracted from the sun rays, but not from the background circles.. weird.
I just got a vollyball design last month that they used that kind of fill, and the thing that drove me nuts is that it's off-center.
You may miss this if you're already on press, but you'll want to watch the areas in between colors--if the gap grows anywhere (or grows where it was touching,) and/or you have problems clearing edges in the open areas, your buildup is affecting where the ink will properly transfer--you'll want to take press wash to the backs of the screens if this happens, and do a test print or two to get it back up and running. Hopefully you'll get through them without doing this--but you'll want to watch those areas Scott mentioned, since they are basically butt fit.
Very good for wet on wet - also print the less ink 1st and the most ink last. 1 greenish yellow, 2 blue, 3 brown, 4 orange. That sequence should give you the least pick back on the screens. When colors touch or have trapping you print light to dark (usually) but in this instance it doesn't matter, so go less ink to most ink.. go for the wet on wet - you can do it..
well kinda did both...I did have the flash on but the shirt realy did'nt totaly flash because I still got some "build up" on the back of the screens. so it did give me confidence to go total wet on wet next time. when you do wet on wet do you do one shirt at a time or load all stations and print ?
Load all stations print each color on every shirt the the next color. Just a hint I also use curable reducer when printing wet on wet with small to large instead of light to dark. That way you drag as little ink as possible.
I agree - a little reduce goes a long way.. I run an auto now, but I use to load 1 shirt and print all the colors then unload. That way I'm not turning the shirts and also turning the screens, but I'm lazy..
I've done quite a bit of 2 color work with one person loading and printing the first color, the other printing the second color and unloading--you don't need an AHD press for it. With fast people you can approach low auto speeds like this--we've done 250-300 an hour here. Takes it out of you though.
Also--if you have someone loading/unloading, it doesn't mean you can't print all the colors at once, right? Just put them on the station by the dryer, load, turn, unload load etc... Done more than a few 4CP shirts that way too...
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