[Summitfever]

So Im pretty new to screen printing and so far Ive done all single color prints. I want to practice doing more multi color prints so I made this design for my friend and I am curious as to the correct way to print it.

Please correct me if Im wrong, or if there is a better way to do this, but here is what I am thinking.

Back: I will first print the flag (dark grey), followed by the white text, along with a white stripe to serve as the underbase for the blue stripe. Then finally print the blue stripe.

Front: I plan to first print the entire design in white, to include the blue stripe, and then print the blue atop the white stripe.

Also, I plan to flash after every color.

My thinking is that I will need to do the white underbase for the blue since it will be on a black cotton poly blend and I don't want the blue to get muddled.

 

[Twisted Grafix]

No need to flash the blue or gray if you separate the art properly.

REAR- Print the white underbase, flash, 2nd pass of white, flash, then wet blue, wet gray, cure.

FRONT- Same as rear minus the gray screen.

It's a very easy design to print, so it shouldn't give you much trouble.

 

[Summitfever]

thanks for the advice. Are you suggesting doing a white underbase for the entire image or just the blue line?

 

[TABOB]

You do need to flash.
Start with a white under-base for blue. A single pass will do in my opinion, but it depends on your ink and skill level.
Then print the other colors, and flash cure between them.
Grey and white inks are opaque, so there is no point doing a full white underbase.

 

[Twisted Grafix]

Are you suggesting doing a white underbase for the entire image or just the blue line?

Use the white as the underbase for the blue and the actual white in the image.

 

[TABOB]

Are you suggesting doing a white underbase for the entire image or just the blue line?

Use the white as the underbase for the blue and the actual white in the image.

Just the blue. Grey inks are as opaque as the white, so there is no need for underbase.
You will need two white screens though. one for the underbase, and one for the top.

Actually... I'd be tempted to print blue over grey, and save one screen.

 

[Twisted Grafix]

We would print it with one white screen. Less to keep in registration, less screens to make, and one less screen to print = faster production with the same result. Depending on the ink & mesh you may have to PFPF, but it will print just fine.

 

[Invizzible]

It’s cool to see the approaches different printers would use for the same job.

In our shop we would do a full underbase white screen, then PFPF the white, then one swipe wet on wet with the blue and grey.

We tend to like a bright pop on most colors regardless or opacity of the ink, bearing in mind we use RFU Union ink in both Ultrasoft and Maxopake. We also tend to hit our whites without the need for a top white.

I’d bet that if we all set up the job and ran a shirt in our shop and then compared our results, we would get an assortment of prints that would all look good, each with their own personality.

 

[Twisted Grafix]

It’s cool to see the approaches different printers would use for the same job.

In our shop we would do a full underbase white screen, then PFPF the white, then one swipe wet on wet with the blue and grey.

We tend to like a bright pop on most colors regardless or opacity of the ink, bearing in mind we use RFU Union ink in both Ultrasoft and Maxopake. We also tend to hit our whites without the need for a top white.

I’d bet that if we all set up the job and ran a shirt in our shop and then compared our results, we would get an assortment of prints that would all look good, each with their own personality.

Like they say, "There's more than 1 way to skin a cat". I think it really comes down to the shop/printer's preference. As stated above previously, we would do it almost the same way as you. Tabob would run 2 white screens. Either way is perfectly fine. Personally, I hate using 2 white screens, which is why we do it with one, but to each their own.

 

[sben763]

For the front, I’d make 1 white screen, print flash print. Blue screen. If you make a thicker white stencil you could just print and flash then blue screen.

Back I’d make a gray screen as the under base (thicker stencil or you may have to P/F/P) and print blue the white.

We rarely ever use 2 white screens. About the only time is when simulated process and a lot of halftones and white solids and even then in most cases with dot gain controls can get away with 1 white screen.

 

[TABOB]

For the front, I’d make 1 white screen, print flash print. Blue screen. If you make a thicker white stencil you could just print and flash then blue screen.

Back I’d make a gray screen as the under base (thicker stencil or you may have to P/F/P) and print blue the white.

We rarely ever use 2 white screens. About the only time is when simulated process and a lot of halftones and white solids and even then in most cases with dot gain controls can get away with 1 white screen.

The only reason I suggested using a second white screen is for producing a softer hand. If your white underbase is too thick (print-flash-print), it will become even ticker with the colors on top, and you may get a white outline.

 

[sben763]

The only reason I suggested using a second white screen is for producing a softer hand. If your white underbase is too thick (print-flash-print), it will become even ticker with the colors on top, and you may get a white outline.

First experience with proper technique will avoid this. When making the underbase screen one would choke everything but the white. From another thread I believe you suggested using a 110 for a underbase. This alone would cause a thick print. By using a higher mesh like a 205 and doing a print flash print uses less ink, softer hand and same opacity. One can prove this by exposing 2 screens 110(128) and a 230(205-272) weigh shirt print 110 single hit and the other print flash print and re weigh.

I encourage anyone to look at this guys post and for the most part they give recommendations about materials and techniques they don’t use. Have seen no post showing any of the work you do. You don’t set your location which might at least explain why you suggest some of the things you suggest as maybe things aren’t available as they are to others.

2008 I took a plastisol screen printed shirt to NBM show. Asked every vendor there how shirt was printed, all either said DTG or waterbase screen print. Plastisol isn’t always that heavy hand or thick print if one knows what they are doing.

 

[Twisted Grafix]

First experience with proper technique will avoid this..... Plastisol isn’t always that heavy hand or thick print if one knows what they are doing.

I completely agree. We use 230+ for all of our prints. The ONLY time we use 160 (occasionally), or even 110 (rarely) is for shimmers and gels. Proper technique and proper press setup will allow what you were taught as "impossible" to print.

 

[TABOB]

First experience with proper technique will avoid this. When making the underbase screen one would choke everything but the white. From another thread I believe you suggested using a 110 for a underbase. This alone would cause a thick print. By using a higher mesh like a 205 and doing a print flash print uses less ink, softer hand and same opacity. One can prove this by exposing 2 screens 110(128) and a 230(205-272) weigh shirt print 110 single hit and the other print flash print and re weigh.

I encourage anyone to look at this guys post and for the most part they give recommendations about materials and techniques they don’t use. Have seen no post showing any of the work you do. You don’t set your location which might at least explain why you suggest some of the things you suggest as maybe things aren’t available as they are to others.

2008 I took a plastisol screen printed shirt to NBM show. Asked every vendor there how shirt was printed, all either said DTG or waterbase screen print. Plastisol isn’t always that heavy hand or thick print if one knows what they are doing.

The guy is new to screen-printing, and you want him to print white underbase with a 205 mesh?
Yes, I did suggest 110 mesh to a beginner and it worked. https://www.t-shirtforums.com/t-shirt-printing-issues/t863629.html

Photos of my own work? Do I owe you something? If I was interested in publishing my work, I know how to do it.



I'm happy do disclose my location. Main operations base is UK, with subsidiary in Florida, USA. My current Location is Greece (on vacation).



As for the rest... Apparently there are a lot of people in this forum with obsessive support for some products (must have something to gain I think), and you are obviously one of them. Would you mind disclosing, which is the product I have "wrongly" offended, and what is your affiliation with it?

 

[TABOB]

I completely agree. We use 230+ for all of our prints. The ONLY time we use 160 (occasionally), or even 110 (rarely) is for shimmers and gels. Proper technique and proper press setup will allow what you were taught as "impossible" to print.

So you'd print the white under base in this design with a 230+ mesh? You must be kidding. Anyway... I stop here.

 

[sben763]

The guy is new to screen-printing, and you want him to print white underbase with a 205 mesh?
Yes, I did suggest 110 mesh to a beginner and it worked. https://www.t-shirtforums.com/t-shirt-printing-issues/t863629.html

Photos of my own work? Do I owe you something? If I was interested in publishing my work, I know how to do it.



I'm happy do disclose my location. Main operations base is UK, with subsidiary in Florida, USA. My current Location is Greece (on vacation).



As for the rest... Apparently there are a lot of people in this forum with obsessive support for some products (must have something to gain I think), and you are obviously one of them. Would you mind disclosing, which is the product I have "wrongly" offended, and what is your affiliation with it?

Suggesting a 110 isn't what "worked" the guy was already using a 110. He wasn't using tack spray. Yes I am recommending the guy use a higher mesh. Why not learn to do the best way the first time. Look in that thread and the guy is using static screens(assumed) as most do and if brand new maybe 20-25N. use and reclaim a few times 15-20N. Find me very many for plastisol that recommend 1/10". The looser the screen gets the more off contact one needs to clear the screen for plastisol. I run all roller frames at 35-50N. also thee 110 for white is old school, before the major advancements in ink, not to mention emulsions, and mesh. A lot of instruction was written years ago when mesh thread was thicker. Today many thread is thinner and stronger giving more open area then before. Case in point in a thread I read not part of you say you cant put glitter though a 60 mesh. I do it all the time and its not shimmer, Union glitter ink I use all HD roller mesh which is even thinner and stronger yet so even though it has 60 threads per inch the open area is much larger. Maybe other mesh you cant.


Posting your work or link, It might give you some credibility. Heck you can be a paid forum troll and never done any printing and just repeating what's read or seen on YouTube. My printed work is posted as well as prints of seps that I've done or helped with. As well as many forum members that have been to my shop, I've helped out of a Jamb with large or difficult jobs


I have zero affiliation with any product(s), service(s), or software and have zero to gain by recommending any of them. When I recommend something its because I have tested unless otherwise stated and verified the performance and think it is of value. In several Threads you make recommendations about things like emulsion or other materials that you don't even use, self admitted. That's just giving out ignorant advice and since a lot of newbies come here looking for help they should at least be getting advice or help from someone who actually uses the material or practice. Not someone that has only seen on YouTube or read on a forum.

 

[TABOB]

@sben763
Well, the way you know, is not necessarily the only way, and you have obviously forgotten how it is to be a newbie knowing nothing.
I don't give advice about products I've not used, I make some recommendations about what I know to be good enough for the job. A Ferrari has better performance than a Kia, but do you need a Ferrari, when all you want is to go from A to B? Guess what, I've never driven a Ferrari...So I must be wrong. The same apply for screen emulsion and everything else.

 

[Twisted Grafix]

So you'd print the white under base in this design with a 230+ mesh? You must be kidding. Anyway... I stop here.

Yes, I would use 230 for all 3 screens. It would end up with 1/3 the ink on the entire shirt as a 110 would put down with just the base white, with a vibrant print. The right ink, off contact, and squeegee (70-90-70) will create a soft print with NO ink modifiers. Since it also reduces the printed ink's thickness, it will cut ink costs dramatically and doesn't crack the ink after multiple washes like some shops have who print ink too thick on the shirt.

But, like I said earlier, there is more than 1 way to print a shirt. What works in our shop may seem outrageous to you. At the end of the day, this works for us and we are constantly busy because of it.

Taking spare time and just messing around with art, separations, inks, squeegees, etc will help you test the limits of your press and skill level. Learning is an ongoing process. Nobody can reach their full potential without challenging themselves and pushing for more knowledge. Rules are meant to be broken, especially in the screen printing world. Just because an ink is meant for a 86 or 160 mesh doesn't mean you have to adhere to it. It just has to adhere to the shirt....

 

[TABOB]

Yes, I would use 230 for all 3 screens. It would end up with 1/3 the ink on the entire shirt as a 110 would put down with just the base white, with a vibrant print. The right ink, off contact, and squeegee (70-90-70) will create a soft print with NO ink modifiers. Since it also reduces the printed ink's thickness, it will cut ink costs dramatically and doesn't crack the ink after multiple washes like some shops have who print ink too thick on the shirt.

But, like I said earlier, there is more than 1 way to print a shirt. What works in our shop may seem outrageous to you. At the end of the day, this works for us and we are constantly busy because of it.

Taking spare time and just messing around with art, separations, inks, squeegees, etc will help you test the limits of your press and skill level. Learning is an ongoing process. Nobody can reach their full potential without challenging themselves and pushing for more knowledge. Rules are meant to be broken, especially in the screen printing world. Just because an ink is meant for a 86 or 160 mesh doesn't mean you have to adhere to it. It just has to adhere to the shirt....

I agree with you, there is more than one way to print a shirt, and I do actually print using my own unique printing methods. The ink I use will simply not print well through a 230 mesh, and I'm not going to use additives to make it do so.