When you are using a foam insert, make sure your transfer paper is bigger than the insert and the edges of the paper over-hang the edges of the insert - this way there souldn't be any lines. Also, you may want to drop the pressure down a bit. Sometimes when you decrease pressure or temperature it may be nessesary to increase dwell (pressing) time. Just metter of experimenting which settings work the best for you on a particular type of fabric.
how to prevent edge of transfer paper from showing on shirt
How do you prevent the edge of the transfer paper from putting a crease in a poly polo? I have tried the foam and don't seem very good with it. Anything else I can try? My dye sub looks great other than seeing that edge.
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Is there any other method than using the foam?
Basically, you need to make sure the eges of the paper are not sitting on a shirt. Elevating the pressing area and leaving transfer paper to "over-hang" it is a good way to go. How big is your heat platen and the paper you are using? If transfer paper bigger than your heat platten area - don't trim it.
You can try and re-press the shirt for a few seconds after the transfer is removed to smooth out the lines.
Are you using light pressure?
What problems are you having with foam?
You can try and re-press the shirt for a few seconds after the transfer is removed to smooth out the lines.
Are you using light pressure?
What problems are you having with foam?
I finally got one to turn out last night! I was getting close on my efforts but they just weren't good enough. I think my biggest problem was lining up the foam w/ the transfer. I lowered the temp a little more. As far as pressure, it is very light. I think I probably needed practice. After about 10, tries I finally got it. When you watch the videos they make it seem so easy! I love the look and feel of the dye sub shirts. Can't wait to put some out there. Thanks for your suggestions. They certainly helped.
I'm waiting for someone to give this a shot, as previously on a similar thread.
"Is there any reason a person couldn't fold the shirt enough times so the transfer paper is large enough to extend beyond the edges of the shirt on all sides, thereby eliminating the need for the foam? Of course, the design couldn't be overly large and paper would have to be inserted between each fold."
"Is there any reason a person couldn't fold the shirt enough times so the transfer paper is large enough to extend beyond the edges of the shirt on all sides, thereby eliminating the need for the foam? Of course, the design couldn't be overly large and paper would have to be inserted between each fold."
How would one fold the shirt to make sure the pressing area is perfectly flat?
I don't see how it could be done without creating even more problems like inconsistent print and a lot of creases that would need to be pressed out.
I don't see how it could be done without creating even more problems like inconsistent print and a lot of creases that would need to be pressed out.
But the mark does not come from the paper, it come from the edges of the heat press, I tried everything I found here and still, but I find out after you wash it, they gone.How would one fold the shirt to make sure the pressing area is perfectly flat?
I don't see how it could be done without creating even more problems like inconsistent print and a lot of creases that would need to be pressed out.
Ironing out or washing out creases wouldn't bother me. However, creases from the paper do not come out. They are permanent, as far as I know. Also, if you're getting creases from the edge of the heat press, I'd think the pressure is too way too firm.
So, I should reduce the pressure?Ironing out or washing out creases wouldn't bother me. However, creases from the paper do not come out. They are permanent, as far as I know. Also, if you're getting creases from the edge of the heat press, I'd think the pressure is too way too firm.
I'm far from an expert at dye subbing shirts, but the few I've done have resulted in a couple having just a minor crease line from the paper. Evidentally, you're not using foam or pillows. When using foam, the pressure should be light enough to squish down the foam only about 1/3 of the way. Some places will tell you 1/2 way, but I think 1/3 will be much better. You only need enough pressure to make full contact.
Yes I used the pillow inside the tshirt, than on top to the transfer I put a paper.I'm far from an expert at dye subbing shirts, but the few I've done have resulted in a couple having just a minor crease line from the paper. Evidentally, you're not using foam or pillows. When using foam, the pressure should be light enough to squish down the foam only about 1/3 of the way. Some places will tell you 1/2 way, but I think 1/3 will be much better. You only need enough pressure to make full contact.
and still, next time I will be using less pressure.
Where do you use the pillow or the foam.
I have been dye-subbing shirts for over 5 years on daily bases and here's what works best for me:
1. Place t-shirt on the platen
2. Lint-roll it thoroughly
3. Put an insert* between front and back layers of the shirt - the insert should be slightly bigger than the graphics, but smaller then the transfer paper.
4. Position the transfer - make sure it's big enough for transfer paper edges to over-hang the insert.
5. Press on very light pressure with the combination of time and temperature suitable for a particular fabric type you are working with.
* As an insert I use heat resistant foam pillows with Teflon "pillowcases". I make them myself and have a collection in different sizes and shapes to cover most standard jobs. Teflon cover/”pillowcase” makes it easier to slip an insert in and out of the shirts and helps to keep an insert clean as it's easy to wipeoff if any ink goes through the fabric.
If the design is rather big so the transfer paper is bigger than the platen size itself, it may not be practical to elevate the pressing area as there would be no paper lines anyway.
If you can see heat press platen impression on the t-shirt, the pressure could be a little too high.
Unfortunately, there are always going to be fabrics/garments that behave differently from others – some of them don’t bounce back very well after pressing, especially if they are heavily textured i.e. ribbed, waffle weaved etc. so more effort and experimenting is required to get the best result.
1. Place t-shirt on the platen
2. Lint-roll it thoroughly
3. Put an insert* between front and back layers of the shirt - the insert should be slightly bigger than the graphics, but smaller then the transfer paper.
4. Position the transfer - make sure it's big enough for transfer paper edges to over-hang the insert.
5. Press on very light pressure with the combination of time and temperature suitable for a particular fabric type you are working with.
* As an insert I use heat resistant foam pillows with Teflon "pillowcases". I make them myself and have a collection in different sizes and shapes to cover most standard jobs. Teflon cover/”pillowcase” makes it easier to slip an insert in and out of the shirts and helps to keep an insert clean as it's easy to wipeoff if any ink goes through the fabric.
If the design is rather big so the transfer paper is bigger than the platen size itself, it may not be practical to elevate the pressing area as there would be no paper lines anyway.
If you can see heat press platen impression on the t-shirt, the pressure could be a little too high.
Unfortunately, there are always going to be fabrics/garments that behave differently from others – some of them don’t bounce back very well after pressing, especially if they are heavily textured i.e. ribbed, waffle weaved etc. so more effort and experimenting is required to get the best result.
Lots of good tips. Thanks!
I'm new to dye sub and this helped a lot. Thanks!
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