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I feel like I'm bombing this forum with threads...sorry. I just have so many questions. :)

My wife and I decided to start up our t-shirt design business earlier on this year, and because I am impatient, I have my website set up (I fear) prematurely. We're having intermittent problems with bleeding, fading and cracking of our tranfers after as little as the first wash. Through tweaking, we've minimized a lot of this, but I still bite my nails every time I give someone a shirt (Friends only up to this point). I have asked a few specific questions on this board, and have gotten some great info. What I'm looking for now, though, is an overview.

I would VERY much like to hear the entire process that you all are using to avoid issues of fading, cracking, and bleeding of the inkjet transfer paper printed designs. The more detail the better, but especially in the areas of printer & inks to use, paper to use, heat settings, how long to press, and pressure suggestions (although I am using an older model heat press that does not have a setting for pressure). My wife and I want to put out the best quality shirt that we can. We got a shirt done for my Mother once about 5-6 years ago, and her shirt still looks great with zero cracking. I'd go back and ask the owner what he used, but they went out of business. :)

Any and all information would be extremely helpful to me, so that my wife and I can throw open the doors to our business proudly, and not be so worried when we sell a shirt.

Thanks,
 

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I think I covered this fairly well on the other thread; Epson Printer, pigmented ink (Magic Mix or Durabrite), Transjet II paper, press for about 15 seconds at 375 degrees with medium to heavy pressure and peel immediately. I use Gildan Ultra T-shirts.

Basically, I think you should try different inks and paper before you look at anything else. I could ship you a sample print with Durabrite/TJII to try for cost if you'd like, or Cindy might be able to send you a sheet or two to test yourself.
 

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I have everything that twinge just mentioned, i'm just trying to minimize "the hand". Other than that, i really don't have any more problem. I just keep printing all over shirts and writing down the degrees, pressure, and time with a permanent marker on the shirt, washing the shirts several time to see what produces the best results. Its a matter of trial and error now.
 

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I would change to laser paper immeadiately. I've been using laser for two years and they never bleed or crack. In fact I have a shirt on right now that has two years worth of machine washing and it doesn't show any ill affects. Try using the PHOTO TRANS laser paper. It's the best out there in my opinion.
 

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Personally, I'm not a fan of the Transjet II paper. It's really stiff and, if not taken care of before the first washing, it'll crack vertically. (this is from my experience using Gildan 2000's).

For me, you can't beat the Jetflex Premium or Ironall paper for lights. Still looking for a good dark paper for inkjet. Some work better than others, but overall, there's still some work to do in the dark transfer paper world. I know what you mean about 'biteing your nails' knowing that there's a chance the shirt you're selling is gonna look old quick.
 

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I would change to laser paper immeadiately. I've been using laser for two years and they never bleed or crack. In fact I have a shirt on right now that has two years worth of machine washing and it doesn't show any ill affects. Try using the PHOTO TRANS laser paper. It's the best out there in my opinion.

Thread Old but still alive, Laser doesn't give same results as waterproof pigment. Brighter pictures in my epson than my okidata. I use pigment ink water proof from nano digital and I can soak a printer paper in water without having the slightest bleed or fade.
 
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