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How do I keep my platen's clean.

I've used the platen tape, but those don't work because the tack spray doesn't adhere to it.

1. My prints are going through the shirts onto the platen.

2. My platens are sticky, so lint from the shirts are stuck on the platen.

how do you guys clean your platens?
 

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How do I keep my platen's clean.

I've used the platen tape, but those don't work because the tack spray doesn't adhere to it.

1. My prints are going through the shirts onto the platen.

2. My platens are sticky, so lint from the shirts are stuck on the platen.

how do you guys clean your platens?
I use decal transfer tape...pretty much a big roll of masking tape. I try not to use ANYTHING that sprays...I use waterbase tack (looks like watered down elmers glue). Plus it seems to last a lot longer then spray tack. Make for quick clean up. Also it looks like you maybe pushing to hard. I know they say the ink is suppose to lay down on top of the shirt...and it looks like yours is making it all the way through the shirt.
 

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Thanks, will try less pressure. What is the name for the waterbased tack?

Some guy told me that he use to work for a printing company that used some sort of silicone or rubber cover to cover the platen. They were sticky and were removeable to wash. Anyone know what that is?
 

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Troy,

The transfer tape holds up well to the heating of the platen during flashing and curing?

Thanks,
 

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Maybe your ink is to thin, as for cleaning, just spay screen wash or emulsion remover on it and let it sit a 10min. and it scould scrape off with the ink b/c it is sittining top of the adheasive.
 

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Troy,

The transfer tape holds up well to the heating of the platen during flashing and curing?

Thanks,
Holds up perfect...I have been using it for 2 years not with not one problem.

However I do not cure on my stations...only flash.
 

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Your platen looks like it's made of MDF.

If it is bare MDF.

If you put anything wet on it to clean it, you'll destroy it.
 

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What kind of pallet tape did you try? Nobody would make a pallet tape that spray tack doesn't adhere to so something doesn't sound right. The waterbased adhesive that most of us use is far superior to spray tack and there is a ton of info about it on here.

The best way to make your pallets last and not spend useless time cleaning them is to use pallet tape and a good waterbased pallet adhesive. I don't understand why this isn't done in every shop, big or small. It's excusable for newbies to not do it, but why some big time shops spend hundreds to thousands of dollars a year on spray tack is beyond me. There's a big time shop here in town that still uses spray tack and prints directly on pallet rubber and it's really quite sad when they have to come up on a saturday once a month and spend four hours cleaning pallets and burn through 5 cases of spray tack a month.
 

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I would have to agree wit the above post. I make my own platens and the last two I made I was so lazy that I didn't put the laminate on them I just used plain MDF with transfer tape. I am also using the spray adhesive and have no issue with it holding the garment in place so something is definetely not right.
 

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Alright, if you heat up your platen until you feel it real tacky . . . then that is a perfect to get a putty knife and start scraping while it is still warm. Then use transfer tape to cover the platens. Use some textile glue and scrape even coats on the platen. When this dries you won't feel it tacky but when you it heats up the tack comes back the pressure that you use will determine the level of tack your will stick to the platen. So use the textile glue lightly.
 

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A) don't worry about them being full of lint: this is actually a benefit. You'll find you have superior ink coverage on the slightly spongy base

B) I'd advise not using a putty knife to grind and cut your MDF surface. You kind of want that flat and divot free. Heat the surface up, start at a corner and peel the adhesive off in one nice sheet if possible. I wait a looooong time before I clean my platens, so when I finally do it there is a lot of tack on there, and it comes off fairly easily.
 

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A) don't worry about them being full of lint: this is actually a benefit. You'll find you have superior ink coverage on the slightly spongy base

B) I'd advise not using a putty knife to grind and cut your MDF surface. You kind of want that flat and divot free. Heat the surface up, start at a corner and peel the adhesive off in one nice sheet if possible. I wait a looooong time before I clean my platens, so when I finally do it there is a lot of tack on there, and it comes off fairly easily.
Cant agree with that. Lint build up will effect the quality of your print. We use a mask application tape. "Perfect tare" or "r-tapes conform series both work well. You can get these from Fellers. A citrus based cleaner is good to have to cleanup any buildup. We use Franmar's "Icky Sticky Un-stock", it works well. Don't forget to degrease. We also use waterbased adhesive and it is much cheaper and goes a long way.

Why the heck would you want to print on raw MDF anyways?
 

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It surely does affect your print: positively. I dread having to clean our platens, not because of the work involved, but because I don't like consequent prints afterwards until there is sufficient build-up on the platens.
 

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We cover our platens with platen paper, then apply a water based tacky adhesive with a plastic squeegee.

We also keep a spray bottle filled with water handy along with an old rag. As lint starts to accumulate and starts affecting the tack, we spray down the platen and wipe it with the rag. The rag picks up the lint, but leaves most of the adhesive. A few seconds under the flash unit and you're good to go. Works great especially when doing fleece sweatshirts.
 
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