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I sure hope someone can help. I been having a problem with my machine breaking thread.As the machine is running you can hear it sounding like the thread is catching on something and the thread will make a loop, as if it where jumping out at you ever so often, hope that makes sense.I called the repair guy he came out which was a 4 hr drive, he said the rotary hook was fine,sanded all the little pieces.He tighten the movement that was in the piece that holds the bobbin, by that I mean the piece that is a part of the machine not the bobbin case.It worked fine for about 2 hrs and then it started back breaking the thread.It's all needles(12) some do seem worse, could just be me.It's not birds nesting under the bottom, it's fraying on top with the needle.Sometimes the thread is actually split in half with the needle.CAN SOMEONE PLEASE OFFER ADVISE AS TO WHAT COULD BE WRONG before i'm bald!!!!!The machine is a happy hca 1201 12 needle.
 

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I have one of these as well, bought new in 1999. Built like a tank and runs all day.
The obvious culprits are:
* Hook timing
* Oiling of bobbin race (where bobbin sits in arm)
* Needles not in correctly.
* Needle depth is wrong

Hook timing - You said the tech came and tightened up the slack in the rotary hook. Did they also check the timing after they tightened everything?

Oiling of the bobbin - probably the most common cause of fraying (for me). Remember to place a couple of drops of oil in the bobbin race every 4hrs (I do it every time I change bobbins, easier to remember) It only needs a couple of drops, don't drown it. I prefer real oil, not the spray for this area and oiling of needle bars each morning before production. I know the book says once a day, but you will need to do it more often. If I don't have much work on for it on a particular day, I will place a couple of drops on there first up in the morning, then again after lunch.

Needles not in correctly - this is probably not the cause as you said it happens on all needles. But check that the needle is in correctly with the groove facing you and turned about 5deg to the right.

Needle depth - see attached. I received this from my Happy rep about 10yrs ago. The english translation is a little hard to read, hopefully you can understand it.

Finally, you mentioned the thread slapping, coming towards you. Sounds like it could also be a tension problem. Adjust the upper thread tension (top smaller knob). This adjusts the thread tension as it runs through the machine. The lower (larger knob) adjusts the way the thread lays on the garment (looping, getting the nice 1/3 1/3 1/3 on the back, etc).

This is a start.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have one of these as well, bought new in 1999. Built like a tank and runs all day.
The obvious culprits are:
* Hook timing
* Oiling of bobbin race (where bobbin sits in arm)
* Needles not in correctly.
* Needle depth is wrong

Hook timing - You said the tech came and tightened up the slack in the rotary hook. Did they also check the timing after they tightened everything?

Oiling of the bobbin - probably the most common cause of fraying (for me). Remember to place a couple of drops of oil in the bobbin race every 4hrs (I do it every time I change bobbins, easier to remember) It only needs a couple of drops, don't drown it. I prefer real oil, not the spray for this area and oiling of needle bars each morning before production. I know the book says once a day, but you will need to do it more often. If I don't have much work on for it on a particular day, I will place a couple of drops on there first up in the morning, then again after lunch.

Needles not in correctly - this is probably not the cause as you said it happens on all needles. But check that the needle is in correctly with the groove facing you and turned about 5deg to the right.

Needle depth - see attached. I received this from my Happy rep about 10yrs ago. The english translation is a little hard to read, hopefully you can understand it.

Finally, you mentioned the thread slapping, coming towards you. Sounds like it could also be a tension problem. Adjust the upper thread tension (top smaller knob). This adjusts the thread tension as it runs through the machine. The lower (larger knob) adjusts the way the thread lays on the garment (looping, getting the nice 1/3 1/3 1/3 on the back, etc).

This is a start.
I bought mine new about 9 years ago and your right it is the hardest working machine I have ever saw. Mine runs 7 days a week about 10 hours a day. I went over your list and the only things i couldn't check off are the oiling, I only oil like you when i change bobbin( could that be a factor) and the top tension, I rarely move those and it seems strange that they would all go wrong at once.Refresh my brain on how he would have checked my timing, that one i'm not sure about. Thank you so much for the response and help.
 

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If it happens on all of the needles it implies a hook problem. Needle depth would be needle specific. Even if its timed at the appropriate degree if the bevel gears in the back aren't sync'd the heads time at different degrees. Also fraying in my experience usually means not enough distance between the needle scarf and the hook point. Just some ideas to go on. :) p.s. when you work it out please post the solution.
 

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If it happens on all of the needles it implies a hook problem. Needle depth would be needle specific. Even if its timed at the appropriate degree if the bevel gears in the back aren't sync'd the heads time at different degrees. Also fraying in my experience usually means not enough distance between the needle scarf and the hook point. Just some ideas to go on. :) p.s. when you work it out please post the solution.
This would tie in with the first item on my list - hook timing.

This is a single head machine so sync between heads is not an issue in this case.
 

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I bought mine new about 9 years ago and your right it is the hardest working machine I have ever saw. Mine runs 7 days a week about 10 hours a day. I went over your list and the only things i couldn't check off are the oiling, I only oil like you when i change bobbin( could that be a factor) and the top tension, I rarely move those and it seems strange that they would all go wrong at once.Refresh my brain on how he would have checked my timing, that one i'm not sure about. Thank you so much for the response and help.
I will dig out my bits and pieces and get back to you.
For some reason they didn't put that in the owners manaul.
 

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What are you sewing? I've been getting some garments lately that use "performance" wicking fabrics and my theory is there is some extra friction between the fabric and the thread.

I slowed down my speed on those fabrics and it does fine. Otherwise, I get frequent thread breaks... any needle, and it sews fine on other fabrics. Also get some bobbin showing on the top too until I slow it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will dig out my bits and pieces and get back to you.
For some reason they didn't put that in the owners manaul.
Thanks to everone for the input.I still sew the same type polo's as I always have. You now have me thinking it could be timing.Hopefully you can find your notes and that it is something I can do myself.Tech cost alot!!!!!!75 hr plus 35 drive time.:p
Thanks
 
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