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Hi. I have been embroidering since 2005 on a Toyota ESP 9000 machine. I have two Dickie thick canvas jackets to do, and I just tried my first one. I was holding the jacket to keep the weight from pulling on the hoop, but it still came unhooped half way through. I searched for forum posts on this subject, and everyone said to use a magnetic hoop, but I don't have one and don't want to purchase one for just two jackets. Any other advice? I do have a 7 in one hoop - can I use that with some heavy clamps? I feel that that would allow too much play with the thickness of the material and quilted lining. This is just a left chest design, so I just know there's a way! Any tricks / advice / help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much - Carol MacHatton, CM Custom Embroidery, South Bend, IN
 

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Im not familiar with the jacket you using but i did have a similiar problem with a thick jacket long story short i was lucky enough to find a seam that i could slice then easily sew back together allowing me to essentially split the jacket and hide the embroidery in the process.
Obviously isn't going to be the best route for all situations!
 

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I say... Just buy the hoop. Once you do you will find you use it more than you thought you would. Fast frame with sticky AND a few clips on it would be my 2nd option. But I prefer the mighty hoops. Just get the hoop only option which doesn't include the system holder. If you don't have the board and setup, then it can be used like a regular hoop. One thing that I don't care for is the fact that they're all square or rectangle. It's hard to keep everything good and square when you can't just rotate it a little like you can a round hoop.
 

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We use the 7inch round hoop and just tighten it after we hoop it making sure the bottom hoop or underneath hoop is moved up so it is less likely to fall off. Tip for the back hooping - Use large 16 in square wooden hoops. These grip well on the Carhart type jackets and hoop easily if you don't pre-tighten them too much.
 

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Here is a great example why I needed my first mighty hoop. I had lots of these applique RSCA zip up hoodies to do. There was only two options really. Mighty Hoop or Hoop twice and pray it's lined up. Here's how it looks doing it's thing right over the zipper in the middle. This one is the 8x13
8x13 mighty hoop by Hoopmaster - YouTube


Next isn't something I'm really proud of. One night I was in the middle of doing a ton of these (start of school is nuts) and thought I could do a 'quick' video. Well... this was one take and not very good, but it's a great representation of why I use the mighty hoop in these situations. I could also use a fast frame instead but I really don't like the fast frames. And yes... the video was filmed upside down and I turned it around so it's all weird.

Hoopmaster Mighty Hoop Why you need it - YouTube

I still have to use my fast frames on bags. Yesterday I hooped some beach towels with the 8x13 mighty hoop to put names on them. I could have used one of the green tajima frames, but it's hard on my hands AND hard on the hoops. The mighty hoop just snaps right on.
 

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Hooptech clamping hoop system or magnetic hoops are the best for the heavy jackets, even if you don't do that many it is worth the investment.

In the past when I used a regular hoop I would hoop and Un hoop several times in the same spot so it made the area not so stiff to hoop. Then I would hoop the jacket and lift it and shake it several time to make sure it won't fall out of the hoop..if it stays in the hoop or doesn't seem to loosen it should stay on while you embroider it.
 
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