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Should be a fairly straight forward print. You can probably forget any halftones below 30% or above 70%. I'd use a 110 mesh with a P/F/P It could possibly be done with a 156 mesh also with less dot gain. Thin the ink slightly. Post your results. :)
 

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good sugestions!
I would use at least a 156 mesh screen , thin the ink with about 15% by weight.also maybe use two screens ...put all the halftones on one screen and the solids on another...this way if you need to double hit the solid areas you wont risk filling in the halftones.....

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Buy him beer. :)

It stinks to go through the extra step, but if make a test strip with nine boxes--10%-90% halftones at the proper LPI for your chosen mesh count (probably somewhere between 25-35 for 110-156 mesh) you'll know what you can hold and what you should stay away from. On lower meshes especially, it's easy to get patterns in lighter halftones because of the large threads.

IMHO, It would be smart to stick with whatever mesh count you usually do white with, and change the LPI to match it at the tonal range you require.
 
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