Heat Transfer on DryFit Shirts - Help!

4805 Views 22 Replies 10 Participants Last post by forwill, Jan 4, 2015

Mhermsen21

Discussion Starter · Jun 12, 2014

I'm having some issues with heat pressing dryfit shirts. No matter what I try, I seem to end up with slight fading where the transfer paper was during press. I have tried this with a Teflon (and without) sheet and also with a pillow (and without). It still seems to have fading (if thats even whats happening) or slight discoloration. I have also noticed in the past that some of the dryfit shirts almost have a slight shine or gloss in certain areas that were press. Does anyone have any idea what might be happening and how to prevent this?
PS - Pressing shirts at 305 degrees for 10 seconds with 5 second pre-press

Thanks!

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

The TShirt Lady

· #2 · Jun 12, 2014

Can you post a pic of what is happening? Also, what color are the shirts?

Mhermsen21

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 12, 2014

The TShirt Lady said:
Can you post a pic of what is happening? Also, what color are the shirts?

These shirts are royal blue. I have also had this happen to black shirts and other royal blue. I will post pictures later tonight (out of town at the moment).

Thanks.

splathead

· #4 · Jun 12, 2014

If the discoloration is still there after it cools, you're probably describing press burn. It's a sheen that occurs on darker 100% poly garments due to heat.

To help avoid it, try to use the lowest temperature application transfers you can find.

If these aren't plastisol transfers, try using a teflon pillow.

The mark will be less noticeable after wash, but it will never go away.

Reactions: 1

Mhermsen21

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jun 12, 2014

splathead said:
If the discoloration is still there after it cools, you're probably describing press burn. It's a sheen that occurs on darker 100% poly garments due to heat.

To help avoid it, try to use the lowest temperature application transfers you can find.

If these aren't plastisol transfers, try using a teflon pillow.

The mark will be less noticeable after wash, but it will never go away.

I will try that. I figured 305 degrees was fairly low. I will try on a teflon pillow, should I still use the teflon sheet?

splathead

· #6 · Jun 12, 2014

Mhermsen21 said:
should I still use the teflon sheet?

Try it with parchment paper instead and see if that helps.

Is this vinyl? If so, ease off your pressure a bit too. That will help a lot.

Reactions: 1

Mhermsen21

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jun 14, 2014

Here is a few image of what is happening with the "glossy" finish on the shirts after they are press. I think they same thing is happening with the other shirts (that are not black) but it's not quite as "glossy" since they are not black. Any gueestions?

[media]http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r736/mhgrafix/2014-06-13064327_zpsa4723784.jpg[/media]
[media]http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r736/mhgrafix/2014-06-13064314_zps85402174.jpg[/media]

macman29681

· #8 · Jun 14, 2014 (Edited)

Mhermsen21 said:
I'm having some issues with heat pressing dryfit shirts. No matter what I try, I seem to end up with slight fading where the transfer paper was during press. I have tried this with a Teflon (and without) sheet and also with a pillow (and without). It still seems to have fading (if thats even whats happening) or slight discoloration. I have also noticed in the past that some of the dryfit shirts almost have a slight shine or gloss in certain areas that were press. Does anyone have any idea what might be happening and how to prevent this?
PS - Pressing shirts at 305 degrees for 10 seconds with 5 second pre-press

Thanks!

I have the same problem no matter if it is a Jerzee 21m, Gildan42000, or a Sportec ST350 on anything but white this is an issue. I did have some success using Siser stretch and applying at 285 for 15 seconds. My only way to fight it with sublimation is to literally press the entire shirt to a more uniform color before I press on the design. /good luck
and if anyone else has a solution to this problem I would love to hear it. Didn't Stahl's come out with some kind of printable vinyl that applies and low temp to help avoid dye migration. I just wish it could be other colors than white since I don't have a solvent printer.

Mhermsen21

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jun 19, 2014

Seems to still be happening with turning down the heat (down to 275), lower pressure, and with a Teflon pillow.

tmorioka

· #10 · Jun 23, 2014

where did you get the teflon pillow?

Mhermsen21

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jun 23, 2014

tmorioka said:
where did you get the teflon pillow?

I purchased ours from Imprintables Warehouse.

JoshEllsworth

· #12 · Jun 23, 2014

macman29681 said:
I have the same problem no matter if it is a Jerzee 21m, Gildan42000, or a Sportec ST350 on anything but white this is an issue. I did have some success using Siser stretch and applying at 285 for 15 seconds. My only way to fight it with sublimation is to literally press the entire shirt to a more uniform color before I press on the design. /good luck
and if anyone else has a solution to this problem I would love to hear it. Didn't Stahl's come out with some kind of printable vinyl that applies and low temp to help avoid dye migration. I just wish it could be other colors than white since I don't have a solvent printer.

Stahls' has Premium Plus which can be applied at 280 degrees for 8 seconds. Most performance wear can withstand this application, but it is not a 100% guarantee not to scorch, so you should test the fabric prior to application. Also, we do have the new Stahls' TEK range of solvent printable materials that apply at 280 for 2 steps of 5 seconds each to help reduce/eliminate the heat press mark.

JoshEllsworth

· #13 · Jun 23, 2014

Mhermsen21 said:
Here is a few image of what is happening with the "glossy" finish on the shirts after they are press. I think they same thing is happening with the other shirts (that are not black) but it's not quite as "glossy" since they are not black. Any gueestions?

[media]http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r736/mhgrafix/2014-06-13064327_zpsa4723784.jpg[/media]
[media]http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r736/mhgrafix/2014-06-13064314_zps85402174.jpg[/media]

From the photos it appears that you are getting some print through of seams from the other side of the garment. These raised seams cause the location to receive more pressure that the other parts of the garment and will scorch easier. Thread your garment onto the press and leave the seams hanging off the edge of the press to improve your results.

Mhermsen21

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jun 25, 2014

JoshEllsworth said:
From the photos it appears that you are getting some print through of seams from the other side of the garment. These raised seams cause the location to receive more pressure that the other parts of the garment and will scorch easier. Thread your garment onto the press and leave the seams hanging off the edge of the press to improve your results.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "thread your garment onto the press." Can you elaborate?
Do you work for Stahl's? Is it possible to get a sample of these transfers you were referencing? Thank you for your help.

Mtnview

· #15 · Jun 25, 2014

The "threading" that Josh is talking about is running the platen between the front and back of the shirt. That is if your press or the garment allows for it. If you are able to thread the garment that means you don't have two layers of apparel to press which includes more seams or buttons or zippers. We have a 4 yr old benchtop Hotronix that does not allow us to thread the garment. We use a pillow a lot more than we would if we had a new press.

Reactions: 1

Mhermsen21

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jun 25, 2014

Mtnview said:
The "threading" that Josh is talking about is running the platen between the front and back of the shirt. That is if your press or the garment allows for it. If you are able to thread the garment that means you don't have two layers of apparel to press which includes more seams or buttons or zippers. We have a 4 yr old benchtop Hotronix that does not allow us to thread the garment. We use a pillow a lot more than we would if we had a new press.

I'm not sure that my heat press has that capability. I have a cheap heat press, similar to the one below:

Imprintables Red Press - 11" x 15" | Imprintables Warehouse

Kara Renee

· #17 · Jul 10, 2014

I've noticed if I use a pillow and two Teflon covers that there is less of the scorching then otherwise. However, even with the very light pressure I am still getting marks. I have a clam so I cannot tread my shirts either.

Did the Teflon pillow help?

Mhermsen21

Discussion Starter · #18 · Jul 10, 2014

Kara Renee said:
I've noticed if I use a pillow and two Teflon covers that there is less of the scorching then otherwise. However, even with the very light pressure I am still getting marks. I have a clam so I cannot tread my shirts either.
Did the Teflon pillow help?

No, unfortunately the pillow didn't help. The only thing that helped was less heat. However, that worries me that it is going to effect the transfers.

JoshEllsworth

· #19 · Jul 11, 2014

Mhermsen21 said:
I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "thread your garment onto the press." Can you elaborate?
Do you work for Stahl's? Is it possible to get a sample of these transfers you were referencing? Thank you for your help.

Someone if going to call you tomorrow to get all of your info to send samples. Sorry, I overlooked this post before.

Premium Plus applies at 280 degrees for 8 seconds.

Tugg Speedman

· #20 · Jul 11, 2014 (Edited)

Mhermsen21 said:
I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "thread your garment onto the press." Can you elaborate?
Do you work for Stahl's? Is it possible to get a sample of these transfers you were referencing? Thank you for your help.

Lol yeah he works for Stahls (General Manager),does all the great videos to help show how things work and come out looking. The clamshell has a cool option they came out with using the heatpress caddie (rolling floor stand) or the cheaper counter caddie that lifts it up a bit so you can thread shirts like the big caddie.

Link to caddies Heat Press Caddie by Hotronix | Stahls’

Been debating on buying a counter caddie for my Stahls Hotronix sitting next to me. I do need to order some more Ecofilm and want to try some new stuff from them. Have not tried the Premium Plus but need to try new stuff before school starts again.

Josh,I wish you would go back and redo some of the old videos from about 2008 when they were shot with a potato cam

, some of the old stuff was corny too

.

How about it Josh,can you revisit some old videos and do them in HD with all the tricks you've learned since then? BTW, how important is a pillow? I've been without one or a print perfect pad and feel I'm missing out on some jobs I should try.

Found the video for the floor caddie. Can't do inline videos?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvMZ5giXzuQ&list=LLWPDTaot1wqQSbOP3qvEuoA&index=2

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