Heat press paper marks, please help

You can try tearing the edges of the paper so that it’s a torn, beveled edge instead of a crisp cut edge of a sheet of transfer paper. I’ve had improvement with this but still can see the imprint of the torn edge on some shirts. A pad is the best idea. If you use silicone, it might just leave the imprint of the pad (from below) on the shirt, which is called a “scorch mark” when heat pressing. You can also buy heat press foam pads that you can cut the top edges down, again to form a bevel. Make this smaller than your paper’s edges. That helps too. Unfortunately, I’ve found that on some polyesters, they just scorch. If you can get transfers made to press at a temp lower than 295-300 deg, that is helpful as well. If you google about preventing scorch marks in poly, you’ll find other suggestions.


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Look in the sublimation sections.
These poly shirts are pressed at 380 - 400 F.
You will find the answers there about using pads to lift paper edges off the plates

thanks for the answers.

Do you guys think that a teflon pillow could do the job? even if it´s bigger than the paper sheet, do you think i would see the marks?

thanks

Depends on the shirt. I have used Teflon piilows bigger than my sheets and still had issues on some shirts. You’ll have to try it and see. I’ve come to the conclusion that some poly shirts are just worse than others for scorching. I do due sub too. I try to get shirts specifically made for dye sub to press them at dye sub temps. Some performance-type shirts (not made for dye sub) will scorch at those temps no matter what you do.


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No - will not work.
The paper edges need to "float" off ALL the surfaces.
Look at Preferred Venders on L/H side. They should have smaller pads.

thanks for your replies.
So basically i need to get "hot foam" or something like that and cut it smaller than my designs right? this way the edges would be floating.
i´m thinking maybe foam is too soft. I´ve seen teflon pillows and none of them have the size i need. thanks

Unless you are printing rectangle images like photos which require straight edges on all sides. then it is advisable to "lift the shirt area to be printed" above rest of the shirt, by slipping a pad under that area.
The top platen will make contact only with the raised portion of the shirt and transfer paper. Thus, no edge.
Look at You Tube for methods of doing this. If this is your "general" size of your artwork, than buy a pad (pillow) of that size. Visit your supplier for these add-ons for heat transfer.

Problem is that i´m in Spain and i´m not seeing any pillows here.

I have a standard size which is A4 sheet. I thought about putting a pad smaller than that A4 made of the same material as the one which sits on the heatpress but the guy who was selling those told me it would not work.... Any idea? thanks a lot for your replies

Try it on an old shirt.
If the surface (edges) of the paper do not touch the hot platen, no transfer will be passed to the shirt and no edges will appear either.
Only the contact of all three :- heated platen, shirt and transfer paper can create images. What doesn't touch doesn't leave any print.
Good luck.

Do you guys think that a pade made from the same material as the heatpress plattern would work or it´s too hard? i don´t think the guy who was selling those pads on Ebay had an idea about what sublimation was xD. Thanks

Look at You Tube Lots of stuff there. Watch this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzjwkNGsgWw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxDsLpF5hlY


Good Luck

Thanks a lot everybody for your replies and taking the time to help me. I will update the results, i´m going to get heat resistant foam (also a new heatpress since the one i have is very bad).
Thanks again.

I think i´m going to buy acustic foam, i think it´s the same as the one that sells for vapor apparel (which is what i´m going to use). I´m looking at the description and it´s says it´s fire resistant, so i think it would make the job. Do you think it´s the same, anybody have use it before?
thanks