[sisterofdionysis]

The image keeps getting messed up somehow. I've been following the directions- heating up the press to 375 degrees, pressing it for 30 seconds, then peeling it, and for some reason it's leaving white spots. It's very frustrating. I've already messed up two t-shirts because of this. If anyone knows how to remedy this situation, please please please let me know! Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[freebird1963]

well just cuz your digital lcd says 375 doesn't mean your actually at 375.
Get either temp strips or a DK pryometer and test your platen.
I would go 385 and more pressure.

 

[Amw]

The image keeps getting messed up somehow. I've been following the directions- heating up the press to 375 degrees, pressing it for 30 seconds, then peeling it, and for some reason it's leaving white spots. It's very frustrating. I've already messed up two t-shirts because of this. If anyone knows how to remedy this situation, please please please let me know! Any help is greatly appreciated.

You should be using HEAVY pressure...2 hands needed to close the press.
Try that and as stated all ready, test your press temp.

 

[proworlded]

Sounds like more pressure is needed. What heat press are you using?

 

[Lnfortun]

The image keeps getting messed up somehow. I've been following the directions- heating up the press to 375 degrees, pressing it for 30 seconds, then peeling it, and for some reason it's leaving white spots. It's very frustrating. I've already messed up two t-shirts because of this. If anyone knows how to remedy this situation, please please please let me know! Any help is greatly appreciated.

That looks like lint related issue. Some Tshirt brand have loose lints on them. Use a lint roller to get rid of the lint before pressing the transfer. Pre-washing the shirt can also cause fibrillation on 100% cotton because the fiber will break down. Try using 50/50 shirt.

 

[into the T]

is it a 100% cotton tee? (try 50/50 for better results)

did you pre-press for 5 secs to remove moisture?
as Lnfortun mentioned, before pre-press, you have to lint roll

as said above, super-heavy pressure

if you can handle the heat, remove paper immediately after first press
give the tee a light stretch, cover with parchment and re-press for 10 secs, then another light stretch while hot

if you can't handle the heat, peel lukewarm from bottom-up or top-bottom
then re-press and stretch while hot

lately i have taken to re-stretching after 24 hrs. to remove that heavy-hand feel
(always do at least one hot stretch, this is not in lieu of a hot stretch)
if you've done the stretching while hot, it should not crack your design
just watch for skewing of the fabric/image
this will give you a much softer hand for re-sale without washing
my best guess for the reason is it simply breaks the surface bonds of ink and glue
so instead of one giant continuous surface-area, you have the individual 'ribs and valleys' of the fabric
but you need a good transfer to start with (50/50 blends and one of the above procedures)

 

[Lnfortun]

Did you know JPSS can be cold peel? Check this thread: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t590801.html#post3224425. The OP was experiencing pinholes like you do. You can actually see some loose lints in the photos. So it is best to use lint roller.

Just make sure to post press it covered with parchment paper after 24 hours and stretch while warm or hot.

 

[MadeDesigns]

Try this, Press at 375 for 20 seconds, Cool for 5-10 seconds, then peel. Cover with Teflon and press for shine or cover with parchment sheet for matte.

 

[mgparrish]

Did you know JPSS can be cold peel? Check this thread: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t590801.html#post3224425. The OP was experiencing pinholes like you do. You can actually see some loose lints in the photos. So it is best to use lint roller.

Just make sure to post press it covered with parchment paper after 24 hours and stretch while warm or hot.

While it can be cold peeled, cold peels often crack.

 

[mgparrish]

The image keeps getting messed up somehow. I've been following the directions- heating up the press to 375 degrees, pressing it for 30 seconds, then peeling it, and for some reason it's leaving white spots. It's very frustrating. I've already messed up two t-shirts because of this. If anyone knows how to remedy this situation, please please please let me know! Any help is greatly appreciated.

As another has mentioned, use 50/50 Tshirts for best results, your fibers are breaking when you peel, 50/50 tshirts have half poly and the threads are stronger.

Peel immediatly while hot, keep the peel motion close to the tshirt and pull horizontally across the shirt and not upward.

 

[Lnfortun]

While it can be cold peeled, cold peels often crack.

That's why I suggested to wait 24 hours then post press it with parchment paper. I found lately that cold peel like Imageclip Laser light and dark which are cold peel transfers that after 24 hours before wash the image became brittle and crack. Post pressing and stretching them while hot they became pliable with softer hand and less likely to crack. Long time ago there were members who were cold peeling JPSS then post pressing with parchment paper after peel. They were reporting good results.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t40080.html?highlight=cold+peel+jpss. The OP in this thread was even using a Cannon printer.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t56833.html

There are more posts like the above. You can search more in the forums.

The OP in this thread http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t590801.html#post3224425 found cold peeling to be a solution for her. Just pointing out an option based on her success.

I still think based on the photo posted by the OP (@sisterofdionysis) here that the issue she is having is related to lint. In that case she may still experience pinholes with cold peel if the lint is not removed with the roller.

 

[mgparrish]

That's why I suggested to wait 24 hours then post press it with parchment paper. I found lately that cold peel like Imageclip Laser light and dark which are cold peel transfers that after 24 hours before wash the image became brittle and crack. Post pressing and stretching them while hot they became pliable with softer hand and less likely to crack. Long time ago there were members who were cold peeling JPSS then post pressing with parchment paper after peel. They were reporting good results.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t40080.html?highlight=cold+peel+jpss. The OP in this thread was even using a Cannon printer.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t56833.html

There are more posts like the above. You can search more in the forums.

The OP in this thread http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t590801.html#post3224425 found cold peeling to be a solution for her. Just pointing out an option based on her success.

I still think based on the photo posted by the OP (@sisterofdionysis) here that the issue she is having is related to lint. In that case he may still experience pinholes with cold peel if the lint is not removed with the roller.

I didn't see that posting before but early on when the paper was first initially released I observed cracking on any cold peel, repress hot later or whatever. I spent a few weeks doing various experiments and wash testing. What I am calling cracking is actually splitting showing the weave lines when the tshirt is stretched or worn tight.

The initial transfer being peeled hot immediately and then repressed with parchment allows the transfers to get much deeper into the fabric. Sit in the fabric, not on it.

Lint rollers should always be used no matter what, but that typically causes fine bluish looking fuzz or hairs to show through, but once the fibers are broken the transfer has nothing to bond to where the fiber is broken.

As I recall you were never able to get the paper to work for you and you don't actually use it?

The "cracking with pigment black" is simple, all colors "crack" if not pressed right, it's just more obvious with black as it has the most contrast and more easily seen on a white tshirt than a "yellow" crack.

Been using this stuff for a decade now. It has it's limitations.

 

[into the T]

here's my first press from ~ 2 years ago, with many wash/dry cycles (white tee - blue design)
hot peel, hot stretch, re-press, hot stretch

next are ones i just did with no wash yet,
luke-warm peel, re-press, hot stretch (24 hours later re-stretch)

i can't see the difference, except for the washed one is a little more faded looking
where they were stretched over the bench corner is the only place you see the 'cracks', the same for all 4
unless you could stretch out the tee sufficiently you will always have this phenomena
but when the ink on top of the fibers lacks the embed is when cracking issues become off-putting
i don't believe the new presses will show any cracking after the same amount of wash/dry cycles as the above
but i could be wrong, i just started anew with this technique
i'll do a test shirt soon and see how it holds up

hopefully you can see the new transfers have the same embed into the tee fibers as the original

 

[mgparrish]

I didn't see that posting before but early on when the paper was first initially released I observed cracking on any cold peel, repress hot later or whatever. I spent a few weeks doing various experiments and wash testing. What I am calling cracking is actually splitting showing the weave lines when the tshirt is stretched or worn tight.

The initial transfer being peeled hot immediately and then repressed with parchment allows the transfers to get much deeper into the fabric. Sit in the fabric, not on it.

Lint rollers should always be used no matter what, but that typically causes fine bluish looking fuzz or hairs to show through, but once the fibers are broken the transfer has nothing to bond to where the fiber is broken.

As I recall you were never able to get the paper to work for you and you don't actually use it?

The "cracking with pigment black" is simple, all colors "crack" if not pressed right, it's just more obvious with black as it has the most contrast and more easily seen on a white tshirt than a "yellow" crack.

Been using this stuff for a decade now. It has it's limitations.

To be clear ...

"Lint rollers should always be used no matter what, but that typically causes fine bluish looking fuzz or hairs to show through, but once the fibers are broken the transfer has nothing to bond to where the fiber is broken."


Should say ...

"Lint rollers should always be used no matter what, but LINT typically shows as fine bluish looking fuzz or hairs to show through, but once the fibers are broken the transfer has nothing to bond to where the fiber is broken."

I suppose that extreme lint could cause pinholes, but when I have seen lint show thru on 50/50 (because I didn't lint roller well enough) it never caused pinholes, just appeared as bluish "fuzzies" or blue "hairs" showing thru the transfer.

 

[Lnfortun]

As I recall you were never able to get the paper to work for you and you don't actually use it?

I had been using JPSS up until all my inkjet printers became trash. I was masking the unwanted polymer with contour cut copy paper. That solved the yellowing issue around the image that I reported I had in one of my threads. The last order I had was 200 shirts for fund raising walk. I struggled to get the order done because of the printer issue. BTW did not notice bluish lint/hair in any of the shirts I done.

For light fabrics. I only use laser printer and Imageclip Laser Light. Imageclip Laser Light is sweet (Out of topic, sorry.)

 

[mgparrish]

I had been using JPSS up until all my inkjet printers became trash. I was masking the unwanted polymer with contour cut copy paper. That solved the yellowing issue around the image that I reported I had in one of my threads. The last order I had was 200 shirts for fund raising walk. I struggled to get the order done because of the printer issue. BTW did not notice bluish lint/hair in any of the shirts I done.

For light fabrics. I only use laser printer and Imageclip Laser Light. Imageclip Laser Light is sweet (Out of topic, sorry.)

On 50/50 white and JPSS you shouldn't ever need to mask the unprinted areas.

In fact I don't even cut around the image by hand or with a vinyl cutter. After the first wash you just see the image, very much like sublimation.

If you hot or cold peel JPSS it shouldn't yellow. but you can see the unprinted "box" more on a cold peel as it is glossy and the tshirt is matte white.

Since you use a lint roller you likely wouldn't see any bluish lint. I'm skeptical that lint is causing any pinholes. Using a lint roller on 100% cotton you will still get pinholes. But lint rollers should always be used. The lint can still be well covered by most all transfer papers and not cause a "pinhole" but it shows through the transparent transfer. The link roller picks up more than just shirt "lint".

Cold peeling may help on the pinholes but it causes other problems. Post pressing after a cold peel may help with the cracking some but my experience and experiments reveal that it's important to peel hot or warm initially to get the best "infusion" into the fabric.

 

[Lnfortun]

On 50/50 white and JPSS you shouldn't ever need to mask the unprinted areas.

In fact I don't even cut around the image by hand or with a vinyl cutter. After the first wash you just see the image, very much like sublimation.

If you hot or cold peel JPSS it shouldn't yellow. but you can see the unprinted "box" more on a cold peel as it is glossy and the tshirt is matte white.

Since you use a lint roller you likely wouldn't see any bluish lint. I'm skeptical that lint is causing any pinholes. Using a lint roller on 100% cotton you will still get pinholes. But lint rollers should always be used. The lint can still be well covered by most all transfer papers and not cause a "pinhole" but it shows through the transparent transfer. The link roller picks up more than just shirt "lint".

Cold peeling may help on the pinholes but it causes other problems. Post pressing after a cold peel may help with the cracking some but my experience and experiments reveal that it's important to peel hot or warm initially to get the best "infusion" into the fabric.

Had to mask for pastel and without masking poly window is still evident even after several washes even on ash. That is with hot peel. So I mask for pastel.

 

[mgparrish]

Had to mask for pastel and without masking poly window is still evident even after several washes even on ash. That is with hot peel. So I mask for pastel.

Yeah, only true weed free can do light colors without the "window".

JPSS is very exceptional on white. Cold peel leaves a gloss so the Window can show even on white.

 

[pstark85]

Hi all,

Long time forum reader, first time poster.

I have an issue that the flesh colour on my prints are turning out yellow?

Is this just a printer issue? Need to lower yellow percentage?

My test mickey mouse prints have made poor mickeys face yellow matching his outfit but on paper he should have a fleshy coloured face. ( I don't sell franchised good by the way, this is just a test print.)

Any ideas my fellow t shirt gurus?

Thanks

Pete

(Paper - JPSS
Printer - Epson WF 7710 with Epson Pigment Ink on High Quality set
Press - FreeSub 4050 ( Albeit reads a little hotter than the gauge tells me its pretty consistent and gives an even heat for a Chinese Press.)