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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I have to print a vinyl logo on some Nike 100% polyester track tank tops/singlets that are temperature sensitive. I have found online that Chemica Hotmark Revolution is low temp and can be pressed as low as 230-245 F.

Has anyone used Chemica Hotmark Revolution before? Recommend?

I've already printed on a few of the tank tops using Siser Easyweed at 270 F (Siser tech support said thats the lowest temp) and there is still a very light box showing when I press the HTV...even after test washing two of them.
 

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Chemica Hotmark is my favorite transfer vinyl. It's considerably thinner than Siser and produces a softer feel. However I was disappointed with the Revolution for polyester for the opposite reason. It's quite thick and stiff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks!

I'm planning to make a sample order today or tomorrow.
Its the only vinyl that is applied at a lower temp than 265/270 F,
so I feel like I have no choice but to give it a try and hope it doesn't leave
a shiny box on the shirt. With your experience and with after I made a call to Heat Transfer Warehouse and to Chemica sales, I feel its my best option.

BTW, I know what you mean about that thick feeling of vinyl on a thin flimsy fabric.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Results Cut by Top Dog Films applies as low as 250 degrees.
Thanks! I'll check it out.
This year I'm doing a lot of shirts for the different
clubs, groups, classes, and teams for my old high school and they often use 100% polyester dri-fit shirts that seem to be heat sensitive. So I really need as many options as possible to tackle the shiny box left after pressing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The shiny box is probably caused by the edges of the carrier for the vinyl. Keep it to a minimum by using a pad under the fabric and be sure your carrier sheet is larger than the pad.

hmmm...it first happens when I do a 4-5 sec prepress (using pad & cover sheet) to remove moisture, so no carrier,and the lightly discolored/faded box is the size of the pad , then again when I press the vinyl & shirt on the pad. I use either parchment paper or teflon sheet on top.

I used medium pressure for the Easyweed, but then I had to use higher pressure for the Easyweed stretch (two color design and stretch is what I use for my white vinyl) or else it starts to peel in wash.

So I should make sure the carrier is larger than the pad, correct? If so, Ill be sure to do that.

BTW, I made the pad myself using some thin foam placemats between two teflon heat press sheets, taped closed with thermo tape. Its pretty firm similar to the heat press pad on my platen. but does have a "give" to it.

Im wondering if its user error or too much pressure, because when I search online and in this forum, people are pressing on 100% poly shirts at a higher temp than me (265/270) and are doing fine.
 

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you can also just get the vinyl to tack, peel the carrier, then do a second press covered with parchment paper to seal the deal
same cumulative time, but a little window of the shirt not under the direct heat and cooling slightly while you peel and re-cover with the parchment

(if you have a cold peel then it becomes a timing issue, just enough to release and peeled fairly warm on the platen
it will take a little experimentation to find the sweet spot)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
you can also just get the vinyl to tack, peel the carrier, then do a second press covered with parchment paper to seal the deal
same cumulative time, but a little window of the shirt not under the direct heat and cooling slightly while you peel and re-cover with the parchment

(if you have a cold peel then it becomes a timing issue, just enough to release and peeled fairly warm on the platen
it will take a little experimentation to find the sweet spot)
Great tip! Thanks
 

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you can also just get the vinyl to tack, peel the carrier, then do a second press covered with parchment paper to seal the deal
I press all my transfers twice; the initial press and then one with parchment paper. Not only does it insure a good bond, the parchment gives the transfer a pleasing matte finish so it looks more like a screen print.

It's an extra step but I only use transfers for small quantities. I did the math on it once and for a one color job, more than six shirts is faster and cheaper for me to to screen print.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I press all my transfers twice; the initial press and then one with parchment paper. Not only does it insure a good bond, the parchment gives the transfer a pleasing matte finish so it looks more like a screen print.

It's an extra step but I only use transfers for small quantities. I did the math on it once and for a one color job, more than six shirts is faster and cheaper for me to to screen print.
Yeah, I do a second press with just parchment paper too.

BTW I got the Chemica Hotmark Revolution vinyl and it is actually nice when I tested it at 230 F, BUT I'm still getting a shiny box when I heat press the 100% polyester Dri-Fit shirts at 230 F with medium pressure.
 

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Just a thought...do you have a good way to test your presses temp?
As much trouble as your having, If you can I would check your temp to be sure it is correct.

I also hear some people use a flexible heat pad on sensitive products (kind of like the green ones for dye sub, but i think they are gray and maybe thinner) maybe that would help.
Maybe this??
https://www.stahls.com/heat-press-flexible-application-pad
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just a thought...do you have a good way to test your presses temp?
As much trouble as your having, If you can I would check your temp to be sure it is correct.

I also hear some people use a flexible heat pad on sensitive products (kind of like the green ones for dye sub, but i think they are gray and maybe thinner) maybe that would help.
Maybe this??
https://www.stahls.com/heat-press-flexible-application-pad

Thanks for the reply.

Yeah, I thought the same thing and checked my press using with an analog meat probe, a Weber bbq grill thermometer, a digital meat probe, and with an IR temp gun.

I use a teflon cover sheet, but I will definitely check out that pad. Someone else mentioned it too!

I bought the Chemica Hotmark Revolution HTV and tested it at 230F w/ medium pressure and I still got the faint shiny box....but on my most recent question that I posted today it was mentioned that a shiny box was to be expected since the 100% polyester Dri-fit shirts were dark green and that dark colored poly shirts were notorious for the shiny box.
@splathead mentioned that when he does 100% poly shirts, he uses a pillow the size of his press instead of a small pillow like I have been using which makes the lines of the box on the far edges of the shirt further from the design and less noticeable. Siser vinyl tech support said for me to try pressing the whole shirt to remove the lines. BUT what I found today that helped to get rid of the lines, was to gently "erase" the lines using a home iron set to about 280-320F. It helps that the Hotmark Revolution vinyl can be pressed at 230F and I do it at barely medium pressure....so the box that does show up is very very faint....so the iron takes care of the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
and it does not go away when cooled?
Thanks for the reply.

No it doesn't. Not even after I washed the test shirt. I even tried rubbing it with my hands and brushing with a lint brush. What did end up removing the box lines is a normal home iron set to 280-320F. I just gently "erase" the lines away with the iron. With the Chemica Hotmark revolution HTV allowing me to press at 230F at medium pressure, the box is now very faint and the iron takes care of the rest. Someone mentioned that dark green 100% poly shirts and other dark colors, are notorious for the shiny box left after pressing.
 

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i would begin to narrow it down to the press,
because it seems to be the one variable that is out of whack
(just going by the info you and others have posted)

if you have access to another press, try it
if not see if you can get some temperature test strips (maybe a furnace/hvac supply house),
and test your actual platen temp

i know a quirk with mine is i can't leave it resting on the bottom platen or it overheats,
so in between presses (and while it is initially heating up) i leave it up or to the side
 
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