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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone tried foiling a halftone?:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: foil printing

So then Ryonets advice on the instructional video about 95 mesh screen is to be taken fairly seriously. Adjusting ppi or dpi to mesh count is fairly straight forward, what is the finest mesh screen you would suggest using with foil adhesive? I appreciate your council. :) Oh and one last thing. there is always a "by the way" when people discuss foil to the effect that plastisol will adhere foil as well. If it is not problematic that would eliminate the course screening issue.
 

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Re: foil printing

I wouldn't use over a 110 mesh regardless if you use plastisol or foil adhesive. You may be able to get away with a higher mesh if you build up the stencil thickness. The idea is to have a thick enough deposit for the foil to adhere properly. If you have a thin layer of adhesive/plastisol ink, the foil will not stick very well. Also, we find that running the shirts through the dryer at a temp just enough for it to gel cure yields better results. It seems that the higher temperature that the foil adhesive gets, the less it sticks. Of course, if you are printing waterbased inks along with foil, you have to cure it completely, so either the shirt needs to go back through the dryer after the foil is applied, or the ink/adhesive must reach 320 for 1.5 minutes the first time through the dryer, and a thick layer of foil adhesive is especially important for proper foil adhesion.
 

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Re: foil printing

I have found it works well to drop your heat press down against the shirt without fully engaging for a second or so to just heat jell adhesive before foiling. This has helped with pitting. Has anyone else used plastisol colors that match the foil color so when the foil washes and wears it does not look to bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I ran Ryonets foil adhesive through a 158 mesh with a 120 ppi index sep on it, gelled the adhesive, foiled it (325 for 10 secs) pressed it again after cold peeling and it was perfect. There was also some good sized type 150 point and thin lines for registration. Covered the big stuff well, picked up all the detail (this was on a black shirt). Then just for kicks ran it outside out with a couple of course towels in the agitation cycle for a couple hours (hot water). Seems to of held up perfectly. :)
 
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I ran Ryonets foil adhesive through a 158 mesh with a 120 ppi index sep on it, gelled the adhesive, foiled it (325 for 10 secs) pressed it again after cold peeling and it was perfect. There was also some good sized type 150 point and thin lines for registration. Covered the big stuff well, picked up all the detail (this was on a black shirt). Then just for kicks ran it outside out with a couple of course towels in the agitation cycle for a couple hours (hot water). Seems to of held up perfectly. :)
Good to know....

Would you post some pics if you have the time?
 

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Re: foil printing

I have found it works well to drop your heat press down against the shirt without fully engaging for a second or so to just heat jell adhesive before foiling. This has helped with pitting. Has anyone else used plastisol colors that match the foil color so when the foil washes and wears it does not look to bad?
We mix the concentrated plastisol toner to the foil adhesive if we are printing on a light colored shirt. Red toner for red foil, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the atta boy. Really good point about the 25% ='s. If you were loosing foil at 15% and I'm holding at 25% we're probably get towards the smallest dot reliably usable. Cool, we have a fun job! :)
 

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Re: foil printing

We print with a lot of foil at the company I work for. We print plastisol and have trouble with coverage sometimes, foil resist/release isn't what it's cracked up to be. We ALWAYS print a similar color to the foil underneath. Saved our print runs countless times. Never tried it but if space on your machine is an issue you may have some luck coloring your adhesive.
 
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