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Hi, All
I am in the market for a new Dye Sublimation printer. I currently have a Ricoh SG3110DN and with Sublijet inks and Conde ICC profiles. The color profiles never come out right , Blacks don't come out black, pinks don't come out pink, or there's banding in my pictures. Yes, I have called technical svcs and they all tell me to do the same thing flush my printheads, and that gets expensive. So i've decided on getting a new printer and decided on the Epson Artisan 1430. I want to know have any of you used this printer firsthand for Dye Sublimation and what's the print quality like. Would this be better than the Ricoh SG3110DN I currently have or worse. Please give me your honest opinion on the Epson Artisan 1430 Printer.

Thank you:)

 

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The 1430 Epson is a great printer for sublimation work the secret is of course the quality of inks and paper
and the settings for printer PM me and I will send the settings I use.
John
 

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The Epson 1430 is a much higher maintenance printer than the Ricoh 3110. I don't know that you will be completely satisfied with the switch. I would recommend trying the Sawgrass Powerdriver before purchasing a new system. It can be downloaded straight from their site.
 

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The only possible reason for a bad print if you use Conde ICC and Sawgrass inks with Ricoh is the bad printhead or a wrong setting while the ICC was installed.

I have the same set-up with Ricoh 7100.

Conde people did the set-up when I got the printer. Tried printing with it, some things were OK, but I could not get the good black print. Called the tech support, one check box was missed on initial set-up. They did it, no issues whatsoever after that.

If that is not the case, your printer was sitting for too long or you used expired ink.

if you are not printing a lot, you will not like the Epson. You'll have even more issues.

Good luck
 

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Hello Friends
I was also going through same thing and no one has any answer until i called Sawgrass to buy the ink. your regular ink sitting are different than sublimation settings. So here is the link just download the power driver which ever printer you have and it will solve the problems. Might be some people think what my ink has to do with drivers believe me or not this is the solution. NO ONE WILL SHARE THISall big companies want to make money. but after downloading this it will ask you if you want to print on Phone case, License Plate, or ETC. Just try it!!

Sawgrass Technologies - SubliJet PowerDrivers & MacProfiles
 

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I have the 1430 with cobra inks and I love it. It took some practice blanks to get some of my colors right, but now everything looks good. The only thing I'm having problems with now is gray's, they want to come out purple.

I have never used the Ricoh system so I can't say what the differences are but I do like the 1430 so far.
 

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Doug, My grays are coming out brown/tan. I hate not having a decent gray range. I don't regret going with the 1430, it hasn't caused me one second of trouble yet, but maybe I have reservations about continuing with Cobra... I've called twice and Richard has tried to be very helpful but he doesn't know what the issue is. :(
 

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I have the same problem with my Epson 7510 that I run cobra inks through. I've been lucky so far and can get a good gray if I print with grayscale, but that doesn't work if you have colors in the image too.

Maybe it is the inks.
 

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I have multiple 1430's and they all have cobra ink in them. They are workhorses and I would be lost without them!

The colors are great but it did take a little tweaking once I received my most recent ink refills. Check the bottles you have for a number (on the front label) and make sure your profiles have been updated. Cobra updates the profiles regularly as different ink batches may result in minor changes. (Think of fabric dye lots, two bolts are never guaranteed to be the exact same).

If that doesn't help send me a message and I will share the RGB codes that should work for greys.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using T-Shirt Forums
 

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Ok, I'm going to jump on to this band wagon….

I'm using a 1430 with Cobra inks, and have been doing so for about 6 months. The profiles for Cobra inks have never really worked great for me, maybe that's because there's so many to choose from, I don't know. What I do know is anytime I use a gradient in my images for shadowing (usually black fading to gray) the grays are always coming out in shades of brown. I've been living with this in the past but now I have a customer who really wants the grays, not browns.

I've tried using other profiles with Cobra inks just to see if they would work and the only thing that comes close is an old Sawgrass profile I had from the past. The reds really pop and blacks looked black, but the gradients were still brown.

I have a call in to Richard, but he is never good about calling back in emergency situations. So here I sit.

Thought I might check out this forum while I'm waiting to see if anyone has found the cure for the 'browns'.
 

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Cobra updates the profiles regularly as different ink batches may result in minor changes. (Think of fabric dye lots, two bolts are never guaranteed to be the exact same).
My only comment is changing profiles because of changes in the ink from batch to batch is not the norm and in fact quite the opposite. One could not be in a true production environment and have this acceptable.
 

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Mickey, What substrates are you using? I recently discovered that when pressing material I could reduce my press time and pressure and get there. It's not a good solution because all of my vivid colors need the full press time and pressure but maybe it'll help you with experimenting. On mugs nothing has worked. I have one "gray" that I have found... Pantone uncoated 423U RGB 144,148,150. It's still very warm for a gray but it still reads as gray with the rest of my palette. It was pressed using the poly cloth profile.

I'm really busy right now adding new products but I'll be taking time to find decent grays to use in hte next few weeks. I'll add them here if I come up with any.
 

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I have multiple 1430's and they all have cobra ink in them. They are workhorses and I would be lost without them!

The colors are great but it did take a little tweaking once I received my most recent ink refills. Check the bottles you have for a number (on the front label) and make sure your profiles have been updated. Cobra updates the profiles regularly as different ink batches may result in minor changes. (Think of fabric dye lots, two bolts are never guaranteed to be the exact same).

If that doesn't help send me a message and I will share the RGB codes that should work for greys.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using T-Shirt Forums
Cobra only updated when they changed ink type from a new vendor and new inks... not for batch issues. Those numbers you refer to are codes for the current inks source, not the batch!

There were also new profiles when Richard updated his equipment.

My inks are stable, no batch to batch issues, Cobra is not updating batch to batch, yes they have updated profiles but for other reasons.
 

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My only comment is changing profiles because of changes in the ink from batch to batch is not the norm and in fact quite the opposite. One could not be in a true production environment and have this acceptable.
That is true but not the real issue.

Folks are confusing old inks sourced from a different place and claiming there are "batch" numbers, there are no "batch" numbers. Cobra switched ink sources only. So of course profiles that worked for another ink composition won't work with a different composition.
 

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I don't have that on mine, just the date it was filled: April 2014. I have the "new" ink and the "new" profiles.
The RZ number is in the profile "readme" file. Since he is switched over completely to the new inks he must have took off the vendor code off the bottles.

But there are no profiles for batch to batch issues.

Date codes are for knowing how fresh the inks are since aged inks are NG eventually. If you look at the profile pages most profiles were over a year ago. If he updated for "batch" issues his "readme" file would also have to have which dates are applicable for which profile.
 

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Correction, the CP651 ink is what is in the readme file for the 1430, I'm using the WF1100. But looking at the other profile for the 1430 MAC (same inks as PC) the inks are RZ type. Just like all the other printers inks. Must be a typo in the readme. CP are the old inks.

CP inks are a unique ink
RZ inks are a unique ink.

Both require different profiles, these are not different "batches" from the same manufacturer, these are chemically unique and not from the same source.
 

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The RZ number is in the profile "readme" file. Since he is switched over completely to the new inks he must have took off the vendor code off the bottles.

But there are no profiles for batch to batch issues.

Date codes are for knowing how fresh the inks are since aged inks are NG eventually. If you look at the profile pages most profiles were over a year ago. If he updated for "batch" issues his "readme" file would also have to have which dates are applicable for which profile.
I have the CS inks and am using those profiles. I get that there are no "batches" but something is off. I'm not the only one with the problem. I've considered sinking the $500 into a program/digital eye to try to make my own profiles but Richard said they spent many thousands for their profiles. That coupled with less than stellar reviews and no feedback on how they work for sublimation, I'm hesitant. I really need gray. It completely sucks not having it. It'll be months before I run low on ink but I am thinking I may need to go with another supplier.
I've read that there are places that will create a profile for you for a fee... Does anyone know anyone in the states that will do this for you? Something to try at least.
 
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