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hanes cool dri shirt for sublimation?

9268 Views 18 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Ink Soup Jim
I am trying to quote a job with sublimation and the shirt prices with my sub blank vendors are to high to get this job. I was looking at my regular shirt vendor and saw a nice Hanes Cool dir 100% poly for a couple of $$ less. Will this shirt work with sublimation? I assume it will because of the 100% poly.

Also, if you know of a place to get white 100% poly shirts for less than $5 could you please share.
Thanks
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not sure where to get them cheaper, but I have sublimated on that shirt and it works great!
thanks...I couldn't find a cheaper shirt either. I have just started in the sublimation. Done a lot of mugs and did my first shirt yesterday...sample just to practice. I LOVED how it turned out. WOW, this process is great.

Question...I used the vapor form in between the layers of the shirt, like the instructions said. that seemed to be a pain and if I get this order of 150 shirts, that is going to take a long time. A teflon pad would slip in an out better...can that be used?

Also, I don't know how to price sublimation shirts. I am thinking I have $5 and some change in the shirt. The paper is a few cents and the image is only about half full of ink, so $1.00 in paper and ink. Does that sound about right. I have know idea how many sheets I can get out of my ink.
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
I just did a job for a girls softball team with these shirts...they worked GREAT!...sublimated great with vapor foam and no press marks...safety yellow shirts with black and red names numbers and team logo on front...I expect I will get a lot more orders from these.
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I am manufacturing 100% polyester T-Shirts.

Kindly give your quantity requirment and size details.

If the quantity is big we can supply this below $5

my e-mail ID [email protected]


I am trying to quote a job with sublimation and the shirt prices with my sub blank vendors are to high to get this job. I was looking at my regular shirt vendor and saw a nice Hanes Cool dir 100% poly for a couple of $$ less. Will this shirt work with sublimation? I assume it will because of the 100% poly.

Also, if you know of a place to get white 100% poly shirts for less than $5 could you please share.
Thanks
I just did a job for a girls softball team with these shirts...they worked GREAT!...sublimated great with vapor foam and no press marks...safety yellow shirts with black and red names numbers and team logo on front...I expect I will get a lot more orders from these.
did you find a way to use the vapor foam that made it easier to load and unload the shirt? When I put the shirt over it, it sticks or doesn't slide on and off very easy. I assume you are to put the vapor foam in between the layers of the shirt.
have to sell the quality of the sub shirt and that it wil breath and not crack or peel. peolple will pay for a good shirt. good luck uncletee
did you find a way to use the vapor foam that made it easier to load and unload the shirt? When I put the shirt over it, it sticks or doesn't slide on and off very easy. I assume you are to put the vapor foam in between the layers of the shirt.
Try putting the foam under a teflon sheet. You can slide the whole shirt on the press over it, no need to put the foam in side the shirt, usually.

Also, Sublivie brand shirts are the cheapest I have found. I get them at Imprints Wholesale, and I think S&S Activewear also carries them. They are more cottony feeling, not quite as heavy as the Hanes Cool Dri.
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Try putting the foam under a teflon sheet. You can slide the whole shirt on the press over it, no need to put the foam in side the shirt, usually.

Also, Sublivie brand shirts are the cheapest I have found. I get them at Imprints Wholesale, and I think S&S Activewear also carries them. They are more cottony feeling, not quite as heavy as the Hanes Cool Dri.
Are you saying that you don't have to separate the two layers for sublimating a shirt? I thought the reason for doing this was so the dye would not penetrate through to the back shirt.
So, put the foam down then the teflon sheet, then lay the shirt on top of that? Nothing between on the inside of the shirt? Just making sure I understand.
Are you saying that you don't have to separate the two layers for sublimating a shirt? I thought the reason for doing this was so the dye would not penetrate through to the back shirt.
So, put the foam down then the teflon sheet, then lay the shirt on top of that? Nothing between on the inside of the shirt? Just making sure I understand.
That's how I do it, and I have not had bleed through yet (I suppose there will be a first time!). Try a test pressing, if you get bleed through to the other layer, then you will have to separate it.

Other options: If your heat press has a threadable bottom platen, you can thread the shirt on it and that will put the bottom platen between the layers. Or, you can use a piece of butcher paper or kraft paper between the layers. Anything you put between the layers is a pain in the butt, but paper is easier to handle than foam.

Good luck!
That's how I do it, and I have not had bleed through yet (I suppose there will be a first time!). Try a test pressing, if you get bleed through to the other layer, then you will have to separate it.

Other options: If your heat press has a threadable bottom platen, you can thread the shirt on it and that will put the bottom platen between the layers. Or, you can use a piece of butcher paper or kraft paper between the layers. Anything you put between the layers is a pain in the butt, but paper is easier to handle than foam.

Good luck!
I wondered about the paper...if I did that would I still need the foam. Not sure what other purpose the foam is for. I used the foam on my test sample and I still got the paper lines on the shirt. Any ideas on that. I have only done two sub shirts (ever) and I am getting ready to get my first order of 100 shirts...don't want this to take forever or screw it up so bad it cost me money.
If you got lines, you need to adjust the way you're using the foam.

First, you have to leave about 2 inches margin around your artwork on the printed transfer, then cut the foam so its edges fall in between the artwork and the transfer paper's edge. That should leave the paper edge floating free in the air when you close the press. Also, you don't need much pressure at all, just enough to ensure contact across the entire image, but no so much that you are completely compressing the foam.
If you got lines, you need to adjust the way you're using the foam.

First, you have to leave about 2 inches margin around your artwork on the printed transfer, then cut the foam so its edges fall in between the artwork and the transfer paper's edge. That should leave the paper edge floating free in the air when you close the press. Also, you don't need much pressure at all, just enough to ensure contact across the entire image, but no so much that you are completely compressing the foam.
Thank you...I understand, and it makes prefect sense. THanks
Need to find size 5X in 100% polyester long sleeve, short sleeve, and possibly muscle shirts for sublimation in the ash, sand, and safety yellow/green colors. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Gildan has just released a 100% poly shirt and it's nice. I saw it today at Broder Bros. when picking up shirts. No tags, similar to the Hanes cool dri. You may find that shirt at a good price and similar to the Hanes and even Augusta brands.
Need to find size 5X in 100% polyester long sleeve, short sleeve, and possibly muscle shirts for sublimation in the ash, sand, and safety yellow/green colors. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Augusta has what you want.
I did 20 shirts two days ago and did not use the Vapor foam. Just slid my teflon sheet inside the shirt to prevent any bleed-through. No problems and no press marks. Light pressure on a DK20S press.
You might have to go with vendor that sells Vapor shirts for that kind of variety. Regarding the bleed issue. If you are concerned I have found that by cutting a Teflon sheet to fit inside a shirt (one for sm & med & one for lg xl it can flatten the shirt out to prevent creasing and any bleed through will wipe right off the Teflon. Use it over the foam and cut it a little smaller to allow the foam to do it's job if you want.
Don't forget to wipe it off after your through as you may not see any ink deposits on the Teflon.

Jim
Oops, I forgot to mention that if you put a Teflon sheet that is fitted to your platen of the heat press, if your heat press is of a size you can do this, all you have to do is dress the pallet, meaning that you put the back of the shirt under the heat press pallet and there is no way anything can bleed. again, don't forget to wipe off the Teflon sheet. A quick wipe with a clean paper towel or a not so clean rag should work fine.

Jim
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