This is definitely not correct. Diazo is a better choice especially for a novice. The latitude of exposure is much longer then photopolymer making the room for error greater. I personally is photopolymer (Saati PHU) with great results but I have everything dialed in.emulsion makes no much difference....Mesh count does.
The smaller the dots, the higher the mesh count required.
You evidently don’t print much. You state emulsion doesn’t make a difference when it can make all the difference First off there are 2 types of emulsion, diazo(dual cure) and photopolymer. Diazo has a longer latitude which makes room for error and in most cases is stronger, more water resistant as well as not affected by humidity. Has a short shelf life 1-3 months, with cool storage I personally don’t recommend the fridge if your getting it out a lot as condensation can form. If one does they can pour off. I’ve had it last up to 9 months though just keeping in shop and heat @ 50 and AC @ 70. Then there is different solid contents as well as viscosity differences. A low solid low viscosity will make a thin stencil compared to a high solid high viscosity emulsion as well as how much of a build up you can obtain.I don't agree.
I prefer keeping things simple and avoid problems caused by complexity. Time is money.
Personally, I rarely use emulsion, and when I do, I make my own using a spindle mixer. Surely any emulsion you buy from the shop must be better quality, but I never had a problems.
I use the same emulsion for everything, but I vary the mesh count.
Wallpaper paste -- often contains toxic preservatives, such as pentachlorophenol, arsenic, or mercury derivatives. Not to mention that when you add diazo or any other sensitizers I know of and the cross linking during exposure takes place now makes other compounds that are toxic. Baseless assumptions I think not.You make baseless assumptions...
No, I don't use toxic stuff. I don't want to get cancer.
I use wallpaper glue (powder) and a powder sensitizer. I cannot remember the powder names, but I was given two options, and both were non toxic. I was told there is another very toxic option, which they could not give me without documentation. I was told they all work in a similar way (oxygen reaction when exposed to light) and they can be used to photo-sensitize many types of emulsions, including wall paint.
No, I don't use cap film either. I use a laser printer and thermoplastic powder. I cannot reclaim the mesh with this method, but I don't need to. There is no emulsion that can match the strength of this method, and water does not affect it at all.
The plant cellulose wallpaper glue (wheat dirivitive) contains preservatives. It simply would decompose otherwise when applied to the wall. I never said you were a idiot but are definitely uninformed.Obviously you think I'm some idiot who doesn't have a clue...
The wallpaper glue I use is 100% plant cellulose. No fungicides no nothing. Why would I buy something clearly stating in the packaging that it contains fungicides, especially when I have no intention to actually use it for wallpaper?
I was told PVA would be a better option, but I found it impossible to get 100% pure PVA, whereas 100% cellulose was easy and cheap. I think I paid around $10 for 1Kg which is enough to make 30-40 liters of emulsion.
Cross linking does not produce any toxic compounds. It just makes the exposed film water resistant.
No preservatives. It is 100% cellulose, in 25gr sealed packs, and if I don't use distilled water, it will smell like a rotten potato after 2-3 weeks of mixing.
Adding an oxygen in H2O to make H2O2 is not cross-linking, as you are making a different molecule.
Anyway, I assure you, there is nothing toxic in my emulsion. I know what I'm doing.