[Jmar22]

I am printing a one color halftone image for a customer and I am not getting near the detail that I would like. I am using 200 mesh screen with white ink on a black shirt. I have the picture of a test print and the negative that I used to make the screen. Any suggestions?


Thanks

 

[PositiveDave]

They don't look dissimilar to me?
What lpi are you using, it looks quite coarse?

 

[out da box]

Halftone dots waay too big. Might need a 230 mesh screen also. Picture has to be very high in MP to hold detail when screenprinting- very high mega pixels.

 

[TshirtGuru]

Looks like you're using 45 lpi. Try 65 lpi on a 305 mesh?

 

[MotoskinGraphix]

I may be completely wrong but should that image be a negative or rather inverted.

 

[PositiveDave]

I may be completely wrong but should that image be a negative or rather inverted.

That's dicriminatory, it should be 'differently positive'

 

[Smokestack]

I may be completely wrong but should that image be a negative or rather inverted.

I absolutely agree.. this image as black halftones on white works but the image needs to be inverted on dark garments.. Actually if you want my honest opinion, the only way i think that print will look acceptable is having a halftone white underlay screen and a black halftone screen as well for the dark garments (2 color print)... just the black halftone screen alone will work for whites only..

 

[jshock]

I agree with the inversion....

 

[InkedApparel]

looks like a 35 lpi....try bumping the lpi up to 55 - 65...

inked

 

[Jmar22]

I do realized now that it should be inverted so that the shadow is black and the light is white. I have just seen a halftone t-shirt the other week that had much more detail than this. I was wondering how they did it. Also is lpi lines per inch? I am unfamiliar with this. It could be that I use gimp instead of photoshop. Gimp uses cells per inch which I think is the same in comparison. The other thing is that the motorcycle is only 4 inches wide which may make the Lpi/Cpi seem much lower than what it actually is. I am not quite sure what the actual lpi/cpi is because I did do some scaling after the halftone was made. Could have been a big mistake. I think the higher mesh is what is necessary for more detail.



Thanks

 

[nolantmc]

Hello
Hey you can go to www.advancedartist.com and download his trial version of a new software i just bought. I really never could get my halftones 100%acceptable. Not anymore this plug in is awesome . My halftone jobs are awesome. I really love this new software.

 

[jshock]

I just inverted your picture of the white print in photoshop and it seems to have more detail because of that....maybe not as much as you're after, but i think the white print distracts from the detail that is there....

 

[out da box]

A four inch wide halftone print is going to be really hard. The pic needs to be scaled up to 600-720 dpi and very clear before you halftone it in your software. The halftones need to be 55lpi on a 280-305 mesh printed in black. Also underbased with a 50 lpi on a 230-280 mesh if printing on a dark shirt.
You can't do any scaling once you halftone your image in gimp or photoshop.

 

[jsf]

Halftone are too coarse and I agree with 50-55lpi will do best.

 

[Celtic]

Also try the demo version of Accurip.

 

[PatFinn]

if your going to print somthing that small your line screen needs to be a bit higher. i print sim/process all day on 225 with a 45 line screen.. you can get detail. your image might have been a piece of junk to start out with..

 

[PositiveDave]

btw there is something called the Nyquist limit - it's to do with signal to noise ratios.
You won't see any benefit to a 35lpi image if you start with a dpi of 2-2.5x (so around 100lpi).
You might still see sawtoothing on straight lines but the image will be the same.

 

[DFC scrnprinting]

I use the Accurip softwear and I have gotten some really nice results with halftones. The nice thing is you don't even have to manually convert an image to halftones. If there is any kind of shading or gradient in your image the rip software automatically converts it to halftones and you can further adjust the LPI settings and halftone shapes, i.e. elipse or circle or square.

 

[JAF]

I also use Accrip and like the results. Recently a customer gave me a bad bitmap image of a person. I did my film as grayscale and it turned out good, concidering what we had to start with. All I changed was my LPI to 45 and used a 230 mesh