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free press plans

33446 Views 69 Replies 29 Participants Last post by  cyclesurgeon
Just emailed another member some pics of my homemade press should be on the forum soon
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Here's a .pdf file of the file that was sent to me, complete with photos of his press and description of how it works. If it doesn't open automatically, you may need to download the free Acrobat Reader from Adobe.

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The Bob Marley print is awesome. What size mesh did you use?
I used a 77t mesh think it works out at 196 in us conversion
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am I missing something Where are the plans?
all I saw was a link on how you made the shirt with the press
I'm not the author, but the press, such that it is, is simply a shirtboard with a metal bar about where a frame clamp would normally go, with a centered upright stud that registers the frame via a metal tab that's offset from the center so one edge engages the stud. The two bolts in the frame(s) butt up against the metal bar, and can adjust the frame inward, outward, and skew. There's not really much more to show than what's obvious in the first few photos as far as plans go. Pretty simple, actually. For someone with no money, rather than build a crappy wooden carousel press, I can see where this would be a workable alternative.
That looks like a perfect small footprint solution. I've been trying to find a good set of pictures or plans for that style of setup. Seems like such a simple way to go. So many small tweaks that could make that work even better, if possible.

Hey, it's my first post. Glad to be here.
I had run across a website showing a table printing machine made and sold by a company in Peru, I believe, that showed detail about how the frames interfaced with the table, and how the micros worked. It was very simple, and something that could be done easily on the cheap, and replicated professionally by someone with some basic welding skills. At first, I though it was set up on sawhorses, but that was part of the whole press. It's not unlike some of the particle board stuff you see sold on the internet, but the way the frame works with the table, and the micros is simpler and looks to be pretty accurate. Flashing prints for dark shirts would be an issue, but for wet-on-wet printing, a cheap, easy, and accurate set up.
I think I saw that one or one similar on Youtube. It had a rectangular pipe as a stop? Those guys were rockin' that machine. It looked like it could easily be adapted to a small run setup.

If only I could read and speak Spanish or Philipino. Dagnab it.
Here's a quick schematic of how it worked as I remember. You're looking down at it from the top, there's an "L" shaped piece attached to the top of the screen to intersect the Left/Right "micro", and the frame butts up against the two "Front/Back/Skew" "micros at the top as well. The micros are all attached to a piece of square tube stock, or a piece of wood and t-nuts could be used. The "Micro" bolts all should have locknuts to keep the bolts from moving once registration was achieved. The shirtboard is underneath, and I have to assume that off-contact is probably achieved with shims attached to the screen frame underneath and rest on the shirtboard. Needless to say, registration will also depend on consistently pushing and holding the screen up against all three micros, but the guys I've seen in the videos really move along snapping those boys in there.

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Right on. That looks simple enough. It's my next project. I saw one where they had put the micros on the bottom edge and then pulled towards them. That may work in a smaller artistic setting where you aren't trying for top speed. It would also make it so you don't have to slop ink all over your shirt to keep it in place. Or at least I wouldn't. Those guys seemed pretty clean considering the speed they were going. At that speed I would probably have it in my hair as well as my shirt.

Here is a basic illustration of how a frame is registered on a line table system. The black outline, called a guide rail, is usually a steel angular bar about 1-1/2" on both sides. The gray on the middle of the guide rail is called a registration stop or stopper. The illustration shows a 4-5" nail but often, they are screwed onto the quide rail to allow for micro adjustment. The bluish "T" on the frame is the "T" guide, centering guide or the vertical registration. Just think of a "T" bracket or a "L" corner bracket. Film positives are pre-aligned for this to work but some, like me, use an adjustable guide for micro-registration. This is the first contact point for a line table registration system.

The 2 small yellow circles at the end of the frame (on the side where the "T" guide is are simply eyescrews. We normally use #8-10 eyescrews. The two screws are adjusted up or down for horizontal alignment and represents the 2nd and 3rd contact points to complete the 3 point registration system of a typical line table system.

Some discussion can also be found here http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing-equipment/t123221.html
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Here's a quick schematic of how it worked as I remember. You're looking down at it from the top, there's an "L" shaped piece attached to the top of the screen to intersect the Left/Right "micro", and the frame butts up against the two "Front/Back/Skew" "micros at the top as well. The micros are all attached to a piece of square tube stock, or a piece of wood and t-nuts could be used. The "Micro" bolts all should have locknuts to keep the bolts from moving once registration was achieved. The shirtboard is underneath, and I have to assume that off-contact is probably achieved with shims attached to the screen frame underneath and rest on the shirtboard. Needless to say, registration will also depend on consistently pushing and holding the screen up against all three micros, but the guys I've seen in the videos really move along snapping those boys in there.
its better if you switch places of the "L" shaped piece attached to the top of the screen to the Left/Right "micro"..in that way you can adjust the screens individually and have more room for errors during pre-press preaparation..
Good catch. I was trying to remember how they worked, so in my sketch is kind of bass-ackwards. BroJames videos show the way you describe. The bracket screen attachment with the micros incorporated would also allow the use of retensionable frames without buggering them up.
i am using this kind of setup thats why i readily noticed that part..here is my channel in youtube..only uploaded a few vids of mine..cant upload yet all the jobs ive done..but the videos i uploaded were simulated processes and you can see how tight the registration of this setup can hold..that's actually me printing..^_^
YouTube - baroanthology's Channel
i am using this kind of setup thats why i readily noticed that part..here is my channel in youtube..only uploaded a few vids of mine..cant upload yet all the jobs ive done..but the videos i uploaded were simulated processes and you can see how tight the registration of this setup can hold..that's actually me printing..^_^
YouTube - baroanthology's Channel

Would you mind posting a picture of your setup. It looked like you only have the middle adjustment, what are you using for the other adjustments/micros?

Also, who sings the frog song?
i am using this kind of setup thats why i readily noticed that part..here is my channel in youtube..only uploaded a few vids of mine..cant upload yet all the jobs ive done..but the videos i uploaded were simulated processes and you can see how tight the registration of this setup can hold..that's actually me printing..^_^
YouTube - baroanthology's Channel
Chard just watched all the Vids on youtube , they are great , wow you guys really are getting impressive results . bobbob1982 the Bob Marley blows me away . Thanks for posting guys , great info
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