[reugenio]

Im about to do a job that has red, white, black and green. They are all butt registration spot colors. I run an automatic and need answers. Its a crest and I dont want to flash between all colors. I always run multiple color tops without flashing but thats simulated process with halftones.

I always use silicone spray for simulated process but not on spot color. I've heard of spraying silicone for multiple spot color but I want to know the maintenance part in using silicone. Meaning after how many prints should I do another spray of silicone. what should I be aware of when using silicone with spot color on a automatic.


how much pressure on squeegee
im using all wet on wet inks only.



my worries

having ink bleed between colors and print looking like crap

first round of shirts looks good then starts bleeding or silicone starts wearing out?

how many prints is silicone good for till I need to spray again?
for simulated process, I can spray once and run a 500 order in 2 hours without respraying silicone.



colors of ink (percentage is done by while design vs specific ink color

80% green
40% red
10% white (will have to underbase all, printing on black)
40% black

 

[tman07]

If you use the right screen mesh, you should be able to print butt registration over a white underbase with no problem.

If it were me printing that type of order, I would use:

160 mesh for white underbase
200 or 230 mesh spot colors

very little angle on squeegee

Hope that helps

 

[hoogie]

i agree, with the correct art you should not have to flash except for the base. my place i'd use 160s mesh for base one hit flash, then run the top colors least to most without flashing. But where i differ is on my base i trap or have an ink well for the top colors to fall into to keep the lines sharp and crip .50 outline makes setup quick, and the top colors fall into the outline to create a nice hard line break. no smug or smearing going on.