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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hey guys, here is my first experience in SP.

i, due to my budget limit used window mesh. its not ideal, but i wanted to see if i am capable of doing this at all..

i am using chromaline UDC-2 dual cure phot emulsion with diazo sensitizer.

i think i never let the emulsion dry properly, hence my gooeyness when washing it off after exposure.

it came out okay i reckon, for my first time.

My artwork took ages to do. Im a noob at this.

Does anyone have any tips to get a photo to be print ready??





I battled a bit with applying ink. The first time i went over the screen 5 times, obviously came out crappy. Second time i had a clean swipe and the detail was great. I think my mesh i am using is killing my detail????


any advice and tips welcome:)

many thanks for looking! great forum this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks guys. I did notice that the second screen i made that when i applied the emulsion i put in on much thinner, so maybe i put too much on. Either way i have corrected that now.

I exposed it for like 6 mins, i will expose for 10 mins next time and see how that goes. i should do the exposure test when you expose for a min and move a card blocking off the rest then another minute etc.

i am busy TIG welding some frames up as we speak. Like i said, this was just an exercise to see if i could indeed pull it off:) so yeah, it was a success for me. Can only get better!:D

thanks for your advice fellas!;)

when you say "press" what are you referring to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The device that hold your screen(s) and pallet? (Which holds your shirt)

well, i use a piece of plywood for my shirt and i just place the screen onto my shirt, print, then remove the screen.

I know that there needs to be a gap between the screen and shirt but i have no idea what distance to set that at? I was also flooding the screen before i place in on the short. I also seem to think that because my mesh is so course, that the ink was pushing past the actual size of the hole making it spread on the shirt killing more detail. i also thing i was pressing too hard when squeegeeing the ink over the screen. I have lots to learn brother.

I will be fabricating something this weekend to hold everything together nicely with wood and metal. I love fabbing stuff so its a nice little project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yeah, i am just keen to make shirts for me and mates, thats it. Im tired of buying shaait from shops, here in South Africa we are very limited to what the majority likes. The biking fret is small and especially the older stuff.

I will make a lekker (afrikaans language for "nice", pronounced "lacquer") thingamajig and will post pics. hopfully with the option of a swivel in case id like two colours later on =D i think im on the right track though
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i watched a video on youtube with these guys that sell a kit for DIY. Seems pretty legit. They say that there is an adjustment on their press for that height. Its almost like, when you press with the squeegee to push the ink through, the pressure pushes the screen onto the shirt and once you stop at the end of the stroke, it lifts ever so slightly to pull the screen off the shirt..if that at all makes sense?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hahaha, thats doesnt help me:p

but you know what i mean hey? what would be a decent gap? 1mm? How much does a screen "bow" when you press with a squeegee? What is a decent pressure to apply with the squeegee?
 

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I give it to my screens they take a lot. And When my screen is down Its about the thickness if a piece of paper gap. Maybe less. People use a screen right on the shirt and it turns out fine. I really dont think its worth this much thinking. Maybe Im wrong but minimal gap is best.
 

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Depends on screen tension. Statics 3/16-1/4" off contact. I use high tension roller frames and goto 1/16". The screen should have off contact from the shirt with plastisol ink. I use about 1/32" for water base. This allows you to shear the ink from the screen.
 
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