Yes, probably. All films are not the same and do not allow the same intensity of UV to pass through them and neither do inks. Light sources age and lose intensity. Humidity levels change from day to day. Emulsion ages. There are a host of variables that can significantly change exposure times. I suggest using a single step calculator and using it often. Even on every exposure you do.
Film & Burning Relationship
So, I did a step wedge test and determined my burn time from there. Printing on an old Epson 1280, printing twice to get nice and dark. Was doing fine, making screens, printing shirts. Life was good. The beer was cold.
Then I got a sample of Fixxons film, waterproof, for screenprinters and aquired an Epson 1400. Found some settings on the forum, printed a film, looked good. When I tried to wash it out the emulsion kind of bubbled on the back side but did not release like it should have. It took way to long to get it out and the end result was a lack of edge clarity. Rough where it should have been nice and clean.
My original transparency is clear material, came with the used equipment, I have no idea what it is.... The Fixxons is a frosted look.
Question is........Would changing the films require a different burn time????
Then I got a sample of Fixxons film, waterproof, for screenprinters and aquired an Epson 1400. Found some settings on the forum, printed a film, looked good. When I tried to wash it out the emulsion kind of bubbled on the back side but did not release like it should have. It took way to long to get it out and the end result was a lack of edge clarity. Rough where it should have been nice and clean.
My original transparency is clear material, came with the used equipment, I have no idea what it is.... The Fixxons is a frosted look.
Question is........Would changing the films require a different burn time????
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
I have used the clear and frosted film without any adjustments.. Is there any other variable like was the screen completely dry, was the emulsion old etc..
Agree with tygeron. Any change in process, should get an exposure testing to ensure your timing stays spot on.
Even if it comes out the same, you have removed a possible variable that could ag you in the future.
Even if it comes out the same, you have removed a possible variable that could ag you in the future.
Thanks folks. Most of the repsonses just verified what my amatuer brain was thinking. The variables,,,,
Changes is the exposure light not a factor. Worked fine last Thursday.
Difference in ink between the 1280 and 1400. Could be. The 1280 was very lightly used but had been idle for a while. Does have new color cart but I have no idea how old it was. 1400 is almost new. Is showing almost out of black ink, with new color carts. I did print on my original clear film last night, 2 passes with the 1400 (printed twice) and it looked better as far as opacity. Burned at the original step wedge time and got a better washout but still see some edge degradation. What should be smooth has a rough look.
So, TYGERON mentioned a single step calculator. Is this the same as a step wedge test, just a different name?
Changes is the exposure light not a factor. Worked fine last Thursday.
Difference in ink between the 1280 and 1400. Could be. The 1280 was very lightly used but had been idle for a while. Does have new color cart but I have no idea how old it was. 1400 is almost new. Is showing almost out of black ink, with new color carts. I did print on my original clear film last night, 2 passes with the 1400 (printed twice) and it looked better as far as opacity. Burned at the original step wedge time and got a better washout but still see some edge degradation. What should be smooth has a rough look.
So, TYGERON mentioned a single step calculator. Is this the same as a step wedge test, just a different name?
Same concept but quicker. It gives different exposures in one shot.So, TYGERON mentioned a single step calculator. Is this the same as a step wedge test, just a different name?
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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