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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hoping that the printers that have dealt with customers and their complaints could help me.

My question: Is fibrillation a reason to return product?

About Fibrillation:U.S. Screen Print & Inkjet Technology | The Facts About Fibrillation

I printed some shirts. The customer complained after washing the shirts look faded. (I haven't seen them yet. Will visit him today) Sounds like "Fibrillation". He is unhappy about the shirts and wants a refund on his order. I have tried to get a reprint order but think its unlikely. What do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Fibrillation can happen when printing with plastisol inks using high mesh screens. It can also happen with waterbase inks. What was your printing method?
Plastisol inks. (union) through 110 mesh, manual press. (HIX).
2 color job. Pink/ flask/ black/ cure. White shirts.

Pics soon!
 

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I'm not big on pointing out forum policies and rules, but when you have the same conversation on 2 separate threads, it just gets confusing. I had no idea the other thread existed.

Fibrillation was a possible problem, but I will tell you from experience, you are almost certain to not have a fibrillation problem through a 110 mesh.

After reading that post, my guess is you may have overcured it. You can also have a wash out problem with cracking and so forth when you over cure the ink.

The moment your shirt reaches 325 F, the shirt is cured. Yes, I know you need to cure the ink all the way through, but that is typically done with white ink, not various colors. If you use white ink then yes, 340-345 F would be fine.

If you start getting as high as what the other thread was saying, your plasticizers begin to break down and you lose the elasticity and cracking can happen very easily.

If you get the shirts back, take pictures and post them, it will give us a better idea of what is happening. I have a very hard time believing it would be fibrillation due to the 110 mesh.

One other thought, you mentioned print flash print, I'm not sure why you would do this on a white shirt. Typically, it's better to have no colors overprinting, but instead have the colors barely touching. This gets rid of the flash. Also, when flashing, you only need to heat it until the ink is no longer wet. Typically around 200-225F will flash the ink. If you are reaching the 325, then you are curing the flash and anything printed on top won't bond properly. The colors could fade on the top, but not the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm not big on pointing out forum policies and rules, but when you have the same conversation on 2 separate threads, it just gets confusing. I had no idea the other thread existed.
.
I understand. Thats part of the reason why I started a new thread. The first thread was about ink and curing. It started to turn so I started this thread.
But thanks for telling me about policies I didn't realize.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One other thought, you mentioned print flash print, I'm not sure why you would do this on a white shirt. Typically, it's better to have no colors overprinting, but instead have the colors barely touching. This gets rid of the flash. Also, when flashing, you only need to heat it until the ink is no longer wet. Typically around 200-225F will flash the ink. If you are reaching the 325, then you are curing the flash and anything printed on top won't bond properly. The colors could fade on the top, but not the bottom.
I did a few shirts wet on wet. But I was getting ink build-up on the bottom of the screen. It started to leave a texture on the pink ink. So I went with flashing the reduce the ink build-up. I had the print but registered with .5 pixel trap. There was no over lapping.
 

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Very strange.... I can only think of you maybe aren't laying enough ink down on the pass. With a 110 screen the ink should be thick enough that this isn't even an issue. You could try flood stroking then printing. Pull the squeegee over the image and build up ink on the image with the screen lifted. Then when you print, the ink has been filled in the screen. Make sure you have a firm even grip on your squeegee. This will get you a better print.

As for the build up on the bottom of the screens, this will happen with a looser screen. If your screens are tight, you don't get the build.
 

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Thanks. I have read so much on this forum. I try to do everything that people tell. (within reason)

But, if it is fibrillation and customer is not happy with print should I return his money?
What about screen set-up? Refund that, too?
Did the customer want thick ink? Nowadays everyone seems to want "softer" ink. If you notice something about customers paying for custom shirts, is that they want everything to be PERFECT. Guess what? Nothing is PERFECT!!!!

All most shirts from the mall have fibrillation after washing and drying. Now if the customer came to you first and already told you he didn't want fibrillation and that it was a concern, and that he also didn't mind thick ink, then maybe refund him, but if he didn't tell you any of that, I wouldn't refund him.

Customers need to learn how to communicate with their printer, and tell the printers what they really want! Or perhaps its the printers who should ask. Anyhow, for all you know, you could have printed thicker ink on the shirts to avoid fibrillation, but he could of hated the thick ink!

EDIT: Wait, I just read your other post, and it says you found that ink was bleeding..........and fading.....that doesn't mean fibrillation. That means undercured ink.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I haven't seen the shirts yet. I meet with him in about an hour. After the first call, I went back and printed a shirt to see if there were any problems. Printed and cured the same way. (with the flash for 35secs.) Washed the shirt after in cooled down a bit. Came out fine. (With very little fibrillation)
 
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