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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Four pictures below. Ugly but it works. The pictures make it look like its warped but its not. It very straight and measure about 2'x4'. The glass is uncoated, unfiltered .25 plate glass. The glass surface sits about .125 above the table surface. I use a weighted wood and foam frame insert to press the screen against the glass. The light is a Lowell-Tota photography light. The light fixture uses a 1000w 110v clear bulb. From my research, the bulb should be about the size of a cigar, .75 diameter by about 6” long. The bulb used is an FCM and fits these dimensions exactly. I like the fixture and bulb combo because its really compact, 110v AND 1000W!
I use capillary film and pretty much every thickness of cap film I have exposes in minutes.
Im not sure how my table would perform for process or more sophisticated screens but it works great for the 1-6 colors I currently print.
Im not sure if it would but I left the sides uncovered to prevent undercutting just in case.
I have under $175 in fixture and materials into the table. I know that at some point, a professional exposure table is what a professional printer needs but saving money on the home built table has allowed me to use monies for frames , inks, etc.



 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Halftones are fine. The important thing is to get good contact between the glass and screen. A vacum would be much better but my method seems to suit my needs and cutomers o.k. I could modify the table for a vacum.
 
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