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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, just started my own DTG build using an epson workforce 1100. I have disassembled everything according to the guides on diydtg.wikispaces.com. and im ready to mount everything onto the tdozer base. I have decided to make mine friction drive.


I have a few questions for now:

1- What is the purpose of a ASF Motor & Sensor. (from what i have gathered it just pushes and feeds the paper into the printer).

2- What function does the ASF Motor & Sensor serve on flatbed DTG build ?

Tomarrow i will start assembling everything together. I will post pics !
Thank you for any possible help.

This forum is amazing !
 

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A good choice... Please post pics or videos when you are done. I would love to see it.

1- What is the purpose of a ASF Motor & Sensor. (from what i have gathered it just pushes and feeds the paper into the printer).
You are correct it pushes the paper and gauges how many turns it is making...

2- What function does the ASF Motor & Sensor serve on flatbed DTG build ?
It serves no real purpose but it is necessary to keep the printer functioning properly. The printer firmware expects to see the reading from the sensor. It will display a fatal error if it does not get input from it.

Thanks,

Bob ?;O)
 

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Right on Bob. Even some of the most expensive DTGs retain (all Epson based) the asf motor. There are ways to get rid of the rest of it but they are fairly expensive and generally less reliable than the mechanical version. As said it is something the firmware is looking for.
 
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Hey, Chucky. Still putting everything together. Im working on the friction drive as of now. There's alot of little details that take time. But im hoping for the best when i start my test trials. Im attaching an image of the current state of my project.



that does look awesome, it motivates me to go ahead and try to pull it off myself. what are you having to do electrically? that is my biggest worry. well at least there are people like yourself to help the technically challenged like me:)
 

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@ puertoazul


What measurement did you use for the base, drawer,etc.? I am also planning to do this project. Do you think that exploded diagram for T-dozer(R1900 build) by Feclark will fit the WF1100?

Regards and happy building:)
 

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Ok, great deal guys, lets get a thread going about the 1100 build. without you guys help i would never be able to pull this build off. please please please give some advice on the electronics of the build!
 

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Hey, Chucky. Still putting everything together. Im working on the friction drive as of now. There's alot of little details that take time. But im hoping for the best when i start my test trials. Im attaching an image of the current state of my project.

I think you missed something somewhere. To my reasoning, you have the angles with the flat plate/board upside down. The drive rod shown doesn't appear to have anything to "drive". If the flat plate/board is located against the drive rod with some thin cork material (gasket material) stuck to the bottom of the flat plate/board, it will more than likely be the best way to use friction for the drive system and reduce the need for extra parts, materials, aggrivation, and money.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Im happy to annonce that i have finished putting everything togaether and conecting everything. The first time i turend on the printer i got that LED error just like Jeff (german13) said. I was able to work my way around it by starting the printer with the platten on the sliding trey and making sure that the PE Sensor is activated.

I did a few test prints. But i had some issues.

-What i wanted to print.


-How my printer printed the image on paper.


I think it might have something to do with the friction drive or maybe the whole platten and trey is too heavy and every time the shaft advances it doesn't advance the trey enough. Any tips or comments are greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all your help.

This is a picture of my setup.

 

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If it is a problem with slippage, you can put the flat board underneath the drawer slides and angle (hopefully aluminum) and lose weight as well as have a much larger contact area between the drive rod and the part that gets driven. Did you slot the holes that the bearings for the drive rod are mounted in? You can adjust the tension/pressure between the drive rod and the platen tray that way.
 

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I use a regulator that we developed to control this startup sequence and we are currently field testing it
you said this is something that you developed, are you in the future going to sell this piece individually? i decided to just attempt the build myself, even being broke i can afford to spend 100. on a printer. actually 109. on amazon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey Terry, thanks for the info. Im goig to have to try something like that. I have no bearings in on the drive rod. It is fixed in a cut brass tubing. :(

Having an issue with ink carts, suddenly the epson program told me that some of my colors are not recognized, has anyone experienced that before ?
 

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Hey Terry, thanks for the info. Im goig to have to try something like that. I have no bearings in on the drive rod. It is fixed in a cut brass tubing. :(

Having an issue with ink carts, suddenly the epson program told me that some of my colors are not recognized, has anyone experienced that before ?
Sometimes even the original epson carts are not recognized by the printer. You could try pressing the "ink" button to replace them. then simply pulling the cartridge out and reinsert it.
 
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