Epson R3000 or OKI for transfers

Stephanie22 said:

Hello,

I have the choice between making inkjet transfers with an Epson R3000 (pigment inkjet) or an OKI C813 (laser)
I tried JPPS (inkjet) and Techni print (laser) papers and I'm quite happy with the results.
Do you think one is better than the other, and why ?

Thank you in advance

Stéphanie

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In terms of self weeding laser transfer will be a better choice. I am pretty sure you noticed that JPSS leaves a polymer window on light and pastel color shirts. Where 2 step self weeding ImageClip laser light does not. It is ideal for white, light and pastel shirts. It is cold peel and leaves the majority of of the toner on the shirt. Hence the transferred image is vibrant.

To properly use it is after transferring the image wait 24 hours, because the polymer becomes brittle before wash that will crack when the shirt is stretched, then cover the image and press it for 15 seconds at 375F with very heavy pressure fro durability. Stretch the shirt while warm for soft hand and minimize cracking.

If you add black toner/drum set filled with white toner you can us the CMYK laser printer for 2 step self weeding Imageclip Laser dark and Koncert T transfers. Again like Imageclip laser light wait 24 hours then repress and post stretch.

The photos below were pressed with Imageclip Laser light. Notice that there are not polymer window.


Imageclip Laser Light - Front mockup embroidery


Imageclip Laser Light - Back mockup embroidery

The photos below were pressed with CMYK + white on Imageclip Laser dark and Koncert T.


Single pass printing with CMYK + white on Imageclip Laser Dark


Negative black and white halftone with white toner on Koncert T.

Stephanie22 said:

Hello Lnfortun,

Thank you so much for the explanations. I tried it without repress it after 24h and the design cracked so I thought it was not good. I have an other sheet of self weeding laser transfer so I will try with your advices !

The results you show are very impressive !

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I always repress the laser transfer after feel then stretch again. I always had the confidence that it will be enough to minimize cracking and enhance durability because it was better after wash. That was my way of checking the shirt for quality and durability. So I deliver the shirts without checking the shirts before wash. When I checked the shirts 24 hours after peel and before wash the polymer was brittle and cracked when stretched. But after I repressed it with the same time, pressure and temp with the shirt covered with parchment paper the image became softer and more pliable. The transferred image did not crack even after it sat for 24 hours. So now I do not repress immediately after peel. I wait 24 hours then repress and stretch while warm.

BTW you can mixed sublimation inkjet printer and laser printer white laser toner using ImageClip Laser light or ImageClip Laser dark to transfer sublimated image on light or dark 100% cotton shirt respectively.

The photo below was transferred with sublimation ink and white laser toner.

Stephanie22 said:

Hello, I thought I replied yesterday but can't see my answer. So I thank you very much for sharing your experience ! I didn't know it was possible to print sublimation and laser in the same time. The result is great ! Do you use laser just for white color and apply sublimation on it ?
Is it possible to change my OKI with white toner and how ?
I tried your advices for the laser transfer and the result is much better
But I have some problems with the lightest colors when I use the ImageClip Laser light because it was not applied. Is there a solution or do you just use it for design without light gradient ?
If I need to cut the picture with my Cameo, is the best choice JPSS or Techniprint for longevity ?
Thank you in advance !

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What is the model number of your laser printer? It is possible to add whiter toner if is OKI brand.

Sublimation and white toner process require inkjet and laser printer with added white or translucent toner. I used translucent toner. The normal CMYK or RGB image is printed on B sheet of Imageclip Laser dark and the mirrored facing silhouette of a copy of the color image is printed with white toner on the A sheet. Marrying the two sheets will transfer the color image from b sheet to A sheet. Pressing the A sheet will sublimate the ink on the white or translucent toner.

Very light, gradient and photo type artwork can casue dropout in the 2 step self weeding laser transfer. Converting the CMYK or RGB color image to very high resolution will enhance the toner density that resolve the dropout issue.

Sublimation and white or translucent toner process will definitely solve the dropout issue because the white toner printed on the A sheet is solid white or translucent toner.

I don't use Techniprint so I can't comment on it. Users do contour cut JPSS. I don't do that because when I tried it the polymer crumbled on me. It the weed like vinyl so that was enough for me.

I have a better solution for you. It definitely work, had less chance of wasting the transfer and no placement issue that is associated with cutting through the transfer paper of floating artwork. The process is masking. A plain paper is contour cut of the the image. with the image part discarded. The rest of the paper is used as a mask to cover the unwanted polymer to prevent it from transferring on the substrate.

Check these posts.

This post has the detailed step.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p448937-post13.html

This one has pictorial instructions.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p448937-post13.html

Read the whole thread about it all started and more information.

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/p448921-post12.html