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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. this is my very first post here. I really want to build my own DIY DTG printer. i have an epson r200 in my basement that i never use at all (honestly its collecting dust down there ;/ )

so i want to turn it into a t shirt printer.

cany anyone help me with this? again im completely new to building these things so help is really appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
my first task is to find out how exactly to go about disassembling the printer itself and turning it into a DTG printer.

yes i would like to print in both white ink and the regular colors (for various colored shirts , including white and black).

again, my biggest task right now is finding how to go about building the DTG printer
 

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If you want to print white making an a4 printer is a big waste of time and money.

Better to chose a3 units with dx5 8 channel printhead - R1900, R2000, R3000 or better a2 unit (I like very much 3880)

You will need also need RIP - I like Ekprint and White RIP (RIPs goes from 800 $ up).

You should read all the thereads here - you will need to decide which drive system to use - belt, friction, or use non OEM electronics (you will need electronic and programing skill for this).

Modyfing ink delivery system is also important which most DIYers overlook.

Be prepare that entire project will cost couple of thausand bucks (don't be fooled by posts that clame that you can make one fot 150 $) if you want to make it proffesional.

Best Luck.
 

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The push on here is always to go with the bigger is better approach. I perfectly understand the desire to start small. It isn't the complete waste of money that everyone believes it is. If you destroy a free R200 in the learning process then worse case you are out your time and some rather minimal supplies. Or you can follow the other path which is to go buy a $300 printer (cheaper if you can craigs list it) and take the risk of destroying it while you learn. The small free printer method is a smart move in my opinion and not a complete waste. Hold a regular sheet of paper up to your chest and see how big a coverage area you get. You won't get a 2XL shirt but certainly small to large. Plus it can always be used for hard surface printing.

The R200 is mechanically very similar to the C88. The pinned thread at the top of this forum about building a printer for $150 uses the C88. There will be some slight differences but generally the build will be the same.

I would strongly suggest you get the service manual it will help immensely in the disassembly process. You can download that particular one for free from multiple locations.

As far as a RIP goes. You don't absolutely have to have one if you aren't trying to print white. However, a RIP is useful in all garment printing setups because you can control how much ink you are using. If you don't have a RIP, the print may come out too light. Google 'RIP software' to find out more about what they do and why. RIP's are very expensive so it is yet another cost you can avoid early on by going with the cheap A4 build.

I have an R230 which I bought from China. It is an A4 and I am also building a WF30 which is an A4. Cheap and simple (the WF30 is only $70 brand new). I print hard surfaces so size is less critical to me and the WF30 has two blacks which should allow for White printing if the print head can handle it and I can get a RIP that has drivers for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok no one is really answering the questions i need. i appreciate the advice and info given, but here are the bare-bone questions i need answered:

1. what is RIP ????
2. what is A4 ????


to SACMAN::: you said you built it with an R230 correct? im assuming from google images that it isnt much different from the R200. right? if so, what advice can you give me on how you built the DTG with it?

P.S.
Im not really destroying my printer so far. i too all the parts off of it, and kept the screws. at this point its totally plausible for me to put it back together and it work like a normal printer.
 

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A4 is the size. In Europe it is A4 (210mm x 297mm)in the US it would be considered an 8.5" x 11". Not quite the same size but to make it simple, they are referred to by their European size. An A3 is much bigger than the A4 and they keep going up A2, A1 etc. The A3 is more common in the DTG market because its size is more compatible with printing on garments. The A4 will work but you are limited on size.

RIP stands for Raster Image Processor. It is a software used in the professional printing industry to control individual ink channel outputs to produce accurate and repeatable results. It is used in the DTG industry for two reasons. First, it is used because you can increase the ink output in order to produce more vibrant prints. When printing on fabric, the fabric will absorb a certain amount of the ink before you actually see your printed results. This is simplifying it but basically you put down more ink to compensate. The other reason DTG uses RIP is to allow printing in White. None of the home models of Epson printers come with a white channel. However, the better A3 and above printers come with a second black. One is gloss and one is matte. By changing one of these over to white, you can turn every other channel off when printing a white underlayer on dark material and then turn off the white and turn the others back on to print the color over the white. Without this ability you would not be able to print on dark fabric. I have read in some instances where you can simply choose to print in black and white using a particular paper choice and it will only use the white channel anyway. This would take some trial and error but I can see where it could work. For now I wouldn't worry about this because you won't need it for white since your R200 won't print white and until you have a working printer, you don't need to spend the money on a RIP. There is a free RIP out there that probably supports the R200 called Gutenprint but it is old and unsupported so you might find it challenging to get it to work.

My R230 was purchased from China as a flat bed hard surface printer. I have had it apart multiple times for repairs so I am intimately familiar with how it works. The best advice I can give you is as I said before, go to the pinned thread http://www.t-shirtforums.com/diy-dtg/t32499.html. This guy uses the C88 which is mechanically very close to the R230. He has a PDF that does a very good job of explaining his conversion. If you follow that you should be in great shape.
 

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1. what is RIP ????
2. what is A4 ????
Ok you are probably not ready to build DTG printer since there is no complete guide to it and you are asking (again about the RIP) questions which could be answered if you've typed in the search area of this forum or google a phrase for example "what is RIP DTG".

There are toons of material to cover and weeks of gathering know how. All on this forums but in bits so, no step by step guide.

a4 is the output format of the printer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
alright. thanks for the info. another question: is the Epson R1800 considered an A3 printer? my original goal was to get one of these and turn it into DTG. however since i have this R200 on sight i figured a test run would be better than risking and probably wrecking $100 or more.
 

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Yes the R1800 is an A3.

I do agree somewhat with Smalzstein. A little work on Google and on these forums will go a long way towards getting you ready to build one of these. It is not a simple process and you really need to understand how the printer works.
 

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But again the point is that Google is your friend:

Let me google that for you

Let me google that for you

Take a look at those links and you will see what I mean. Don't forget about Youtube. There is a lot of good info there as well. As Smalzstein said, there is not one complete guide that covers everything since there are many ways to convert so it will take some research.

Good luck. These forums are great when you have more specific questions about your particular build. Everyone likes to help those who help themselves. :)
 

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Frank,

I print on only hard surfaces. Take a look at my website and it will make sense. Model Blocks. I do some other things but that is the core of my business.

Since I have to use a coating on the plastic before I print, I am left with a gloss finish and use the ultra glossy paper setting. I get clean coverage and vibrant prints. As such I have had no need for a RIP.

I need to be able to print on the 'glass' blocks and can't do this without a white undercoat. This is the biggest reason for my WF30 build. I will need to use a RIP then. The gutenprint RIP does claim to support my printer and I happen to have an old XP laptop that I use for nothing to run it on. While my sales are decent, they won't currently support a big chunk of cash on a pro RIP software. The gutenrip should work fine for me since I don't need to adjust my colors except to turn them off to print white.

It's a shame that my WF30 is setup the way it is. I can't use the black and white trick since the two blacks on the WF30 are both regular blacks used for high speed document printing.
 

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Sacman, your website looks great! I have been working on mine for on and off for over 2 months... will get it done by spring..
I wont be needing any Rip software that is until I decide to print on black, however gutenprint work fine on the Xp machines,, I happen to have a laptop with Xp on it I may try it one day.. it did not wanted to work on my Win/7.

Have a great day!
 
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