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Nice shirt. Like it. Once you finish this build it will be all so simple. When Jeff was helping me I ask the same question over and over. I know he was going, what does this guy do for a living again??
Whats the old saying. Watch one, do one, teach one.
 

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On the axle I used a simple plastic bushing but next will prob use a self aligning pillow bearing.
 

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Something to think about. Consider a way to adjust down pressure on friction drive. The original kiosk and Tjets use the springs already in place. Some after much use became weak and caused registration issues. I have not built a friction feed so just a thought.
 

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I don’t know if this applies to the Epson printers or not. In the past I have had sensors/encoders in mice completely whack out if exposed to bright light when the covers were taken off. They would paint the inside of the cover with black paint to stop the light from coming through. I am looking at this Epson design and I see light sensors/encoders that were once in the dark under the cover are now are in the open and possible in the light. I am not saying this is happening or has happened although it could explain some weird problems we may have had or will have. Upon my project completion I will try my theory. What do you all think?
Thought I mentioned this somewhere in the clue book but maybe not. I had several unexplained errors during initial power up on the rough build that I could onlt attribute to bright sunlight. The errors would go away when shaded by a piece of card board. These were always associated with bright sunlight in the area of the encoder wheel. Asf is also in tgis area.
 
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Still does not like sunlight. Direct or bright indirect.
Just depends on angle.
 

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To adjust for different material thickness as between tshirt and sweatshirt.
Also if coupled to feed motor so as to stop power to the motor if platen is to high it can prevent a head strike. The kiosk is set so that a green light is head clear then yellow as platen is raised to a height that is to close but head clear then light off or red the bed will not feed. This is all done with a manual jack screw.
 

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Welcome back. I have not recieved the V3 from Jeff as of yet.
I will post relevant info as I use it as a template for the next 1 I build
IMHO there are so many people coming up with new ideas. Feclarks documentation. Signdogs automation, and more. I really need to push hard just to keep the tail lights in sight. I usually get a month or so for special projects when my wife returns to Brazil to visit family every year. However she is not going this year and I have a new aircraft school to get thru this month. So time managment is critical. Like already said cards, flowers, dinner and maybe even a custom Tshirt for all the moms out there or we could find ourselves locked in the garage for a very long time. Any women reading this thread your turn comes on fathers day. Keep rock'n guys.
 

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Is the body of the R1900 the same as the R1800. Can the R1900 printer head be used on the R1800?
The reason why I am asking is because I hear talk that the R1800 witch my Fast T-Jet3 uses won't be manufactured any longer. Is this true?
The R1900 print head is a direct replacement to the R1800. It just has a teflon coating on the bottom plate.
Also EK makes a rip specificly for the T3.
 

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:D thanks
T-Jet 3 is based on what Epson? R1800?
TJet 3 is based on the R1800.
The mother board is different the carriage, carriage motor. Thats about it. It is easier to freeze or reset all carts to full on the T3.
Most commercial printers use the 1800 because of the ink reset capability. The Tjet3 had some backlash problems. A rather sensitive control board particulary semsitive to power surges and the bed weighed a ton.
 
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what works best for me is the following:
take a huge syringe, a rally big one where the tip fits over the plastic connector in the printhead. fill it with cleaning solution or diminiralised water, suck, push only bit, suck more, repeat this 10 times make sure to suck more than to push so particles get sucked out instead of forced in. this cleaned my heads always. havent had much clogs lately with resolute ink.

i also need some advise,

my prints are blurry in bidirectional prints, but sharp in unidirectional. is there a setting in the EK rip i'm missing to compensate this? or is the only solution to bring the shirt closer the the printhead?
Printhead alignment, should help.
 

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maybe a team intensivists:D
Lets talking about clogged R1900 print heads аnd unclogging methods...much has been written on this topic, however, what are your opinions and recommendations, someone who has experience....
I have R1900 DIY DTG(new) now I bought a used R1900, which has a few clogged nozzles...
What you mean about Epson Printhead Cleaning R1900| R1900| R Models| Epson| Printhead cleaning without ink waste? www.inkjetcarts.us ? is there someone who has used these tools?
Lots of stuff in the forum about head cleaning, however.
Rule 1 suck first push only when you think the head is clean or you may seperate the plate on the bottom of the printhead.
Rule 2 slightly warm cleaning solution works better, not hot.
Rule 3 Never use an ultra sonic cleaner longer than a 5-10 seconds at a time.
Ok, a good general cleaning solution is original windex without the special additives, it says original.
Dilute about 50-50 with distilled water.
Some speciality cleaners that are more harsh are straight ammonia, Firestone Windshield Bug Cleaner (green in color), Bunker Buster Paintball cleaner (sodium hydroxide), these are all short time harsh cleaners that may be used for very short duration of less than 1 hour. For over that dilute 50-50. For soaking overnight or for several days use the diluted windex solution or a home brew that emmulates mfg cleaning solution. That is 10% by weight ethylene glycol, 10%by weight propolyne glycol and 80% distilled water. You will need to buy the glycols from a chemical supply house.
First use a large ink syringe also available at a vet, usually used on large animals. connect some tygon tubing to the end and place the other end over the ink nipple on the printhead. suck the ink that may still be in the head out of each nipple. Then inject gently 5cc of cleaning solution into each, do not force. Then put in a soaking tray full of cleaning fluid. I take a plastic container such as tupperware or deli meat container, cut a hole in top so only the head itself will fit in. fill the container to top and place printhead into hole so that the main part with circuit board sits on top and print end is in cleaning solution. I let sit for 3-12 hours, then with the head still in solution, clean as required, I suck the fluid up thru the head and into the syringe, You can feel the resistance on each and try to get them equal. Use an unclogged head as a point of reference.
Then when you think it is clear you can push some fluid thru if you want, at first it will dribble then spray all directions then form a curtain of straight spray.
It is easier to see if you do this over a tray of fluid so you can see the impact of the spray on the surface of the fluid.
If at anytime fluid pushed in one nipple comes out the other you have blown the plate loose. I do not know of a way to reattach the plate.
Most cloggs are in the plate at the bottom or in the holes going into the nipples, everything in the middle is larger. So do not forget the holes in the top. The using get cleaned by default. I have had to soak for days, be advised solidified white ink is almost impossible to dissolve. It basicly turns to rubber.
 
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